044 10mm or 12mm piston problem

[Dan_IN_MN]

on an off note where where should i post a request to buy a vintage part from a member? Looking for a fuel line for a Mcculloch 1-71.

At the top of this forum....there is a sticky. Work your way through it and find the trading post.

 

[emathews82]

i suppose i'm still painfully green, what's the sticky look like?

 

[emathews82]

Well, after two pistons ordered and a multitude of other parts (from memory); air filter, various screws, slide blocks, clutch drum, clutch drum washer, clutch drum washer e-clips, chain, oiler, felling dog, chain catcher, piston bearing - 10mm then returned for 12mm, bars nuts, an as of yet uninstalled bar nose, and a craftsman professional t-27 driver and a series of questions and responses, my craigslist 044 is all together and has done some cutting.

While the saw is all together and running well I feel a fairly long post coming on. I'll try to keep it brief.

questions;

1- Jockeydeuce clued me in on a bit of serial number knowledge, my saw starts 1256 which i took to mean it had a 10mm wristpin as it started with "1". However, jockeyduece told me the first digit being a "1" indicates the saw was built in Germany. The tag on the pull start cover states that it was, though I can't confirm or deny that it is original. The second digit then is the indicator of which size wrist pin it has, correct? This saw with its numbers 1256... was built then with a factory 12mm wrist pin crank? Also, within those first four digits is there any way to date the saw?

2- The saw has, alleged by the previous owner, new bearings and seals in the bottom end. It has, installed by me, a new piston, piston bearing, and rings. What is a recommended break in period/sequence for a group of parts such as this?

3- To replace a bar nose can I pound the rivets by hand or should I really be using a press?

Thanks for everyones help.