066 clutch trouble

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CG Racing

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Joined
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Location
Saline, MI
I've recently been spending some quality time with my 066. It is a saw that I have had for a while and is in amazing condition. While I typically don't use it often, I just finished a 7' diameter oak, and other than my 088, it was the saw I used most. I'm running a 25" bar. My trouble is with the clutch. No matter what I do, I can't get the chain to stop at idle. I've turned the idle down to the point of engine stall and that doesn't work. I've installed a new bearing and springs and while I was in there I inspected and cleaned everything REALLY good. Both bearing races are undamaged. I've cleaned and scotchbrited all the components, reassembled and it is still sticking. When you set it on a log it promptly stops the chain seemingly with minimal load on the motor. I did notice that the bearing provides a little drag, possibly needing a slight break in or maybe from the light film of grease I put on it for installation. The washer between the clutch and the oil pump is dished back as the dealer instructed after my second reassembly. Oh, and the crank doesn't seem to have any runout. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!!


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From the manual:

Chain runs while engine is idling
– Set the low speed screw (L) one
full turn open.
– Turn the idle speed screw (LA)
counterclockwise until the chain
stops running. Then turn the
screw another one quarter turn in
the same direction.
 
I've recently been spending some quality time with my 066. It is a saw that I have had for a while and is in amazing condition. While I typically don't use it often, I just finished a 7' diameter oak, and other than my 088, it was the saw I used most. I'm running a 25" bar. My trouble is with the clutch. No matter what I do, I can't get the chain to stop at idle. I've turned the idle down to the point of engine stall and that doesn't work. I've installed a new bearing and springs and while I was in there I inspected and cleaned everything REALLY good. Both bearing races are undamaged. I've cleaned and scotchbrited all the components, reassembled and it is still sticking. When you set it on a log it promptly stops the chain seemingly with minimal load on the motor. I did notice that the bearing provides a little drag, possibly needing a slight break in or maybe from the light film of grease I put on it for installation. The washer between the clutch and the oil pump is dished back as the dealer instructed after my second reassembly. Oh, and the crank doesn't seem to have any runout. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!!


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You really need to find out what RPM your engine is idling at. If its too high the clutch will be engaged enough to turn the chain constantly. Also with the chain off try spinning the clutch drum with the engine off, does it spin without any drag?
 
Under 2200 rpm the chain is about stopped. At about 1800 it stops completely, but acts like it wants to stall and is lazy when you snap the throttle. Low speed set at 1 turn out 13300 on top a smidge past one turn out. Dual port muffler cover and stock outlet opened up. Bar and chain clean and well oiled now.


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Under 2200 rpm the chain is about stopped. At about 1800 it stops completely, but acts like it wants to stall and is lazy when you snap the throttle. Low speed set at 1 turn out 13300 on top a smidge past one turn out. Dual port muffler cover and stock outlet opened up. Bar and chain clean and well oiled now.


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CG try opening the low a little more, I have had some saws that took 1 and half turns.
 
Getting closer. I'm at 1-1/4 out on low speed and had to turn idle up a little more and it seems to be idling a little smoother. Thanks for the help boys, I'll be sure to get her dialed in next time I get it in some wood!


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engine should idle at 2500 rpm and clutch should engage at about 3000rpm ,I think you still have a issue there,you might have the wrong springs or a worn spider or an out of shape clutch drum..........................................
 
check the holes in your clutch where springs hook, they may be egg shaped and won't allow enough spring tension.
 
Holes in clutch shoes are almost perfect, I don't feel any hang ups or steps in the spider arms. I measured the drum inside with my dial bore gauge and also outside with my mic and came up with .0005" out of round in any direction. I can't find the bag my springs came in, but the set I took out weren't that old and did the same thing. The shoes all have 1122 SM stamped on them and the spider says 1122/05 SM stamped on it. Drum says 1122 160 2900b on the outside and 1122 S on the inside. Not sure if any of this is relevant, but maybe. I have a PET 2500 tach so I know it's correct. Thanks again for the help and keep the ideas coming.


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Try vacuum testing the old girl. Sometimes an air leak can make the idle wonky. Also, maybe ask if somebody can lend you a known "good" clutch to see if it eliminates the problem
 
It idles really good above 2000 rpm. If the normal idle speed is 2500, then there is for sure something else going on. Is there a possibility that the washer between the oil pump arm and clutch is wrong? It has 1122 stamped on it, but maybe it is pressing on the oiler arm causing the drum to turn? Is there another thin washer that is supposed to go behind it? I don't see anything in either of my manuals, and the pictures don't specify clearly which way it is supposed to be installed.


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Looked, cleaned scotchbrited and still couldn't find anywhere that said top. Unfortunately, the only other person that has a saw like this, would probably not let me take the clutch off his 3 week old 660. I am gonna ask tho for sure.


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This might help
edepymah.jpg
 
Lol, thanks. That is the way I have mine installed, but looks a little different. The dish portion is smaller in diameter. Maybe I'll order a new one. Does yours come in contact with the oiler arm?


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