084 versus 090 versus 076

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Will the 36" Carlton Premium Sprocket Tip Bar (36-57-B3104-PS) .404 x .063 chainsaw chain work if I replace the nose sprocket with a 3/8?
Yep, get the Oregon Power Match Tip.

That's the same bar & tip I'll probably end up getting for my 084.

She would like a bench sharpener. What would you suggest that is pretty fool proof since we have no experience. Will the same sharpener also do her small chains for the Stihl MS 180?
Nothing too good for the wife, eh ? :laugh:

There's no right or wrong answer. A better question might be, how much does your wife want to spend ? :D

I've got the Tecomec Jolly Star (same as Bailey's Speed Sharp) and it makes good chains, but I wouldn't say it's fool proof. It very, very easy to break the vise base, and the angle marks are tough to see on the right hand side. But, now that I've become familiar with it, it's easy to turn out good chains.

If money is an issue, some people are happy with the Northern Tool clone of the Oregon 511, for about $100. As with most chinese stuff, quality is a crap shoot, and you may have to do some repairs or mods to get it working satisfactorily. Lots of threads on the NT grinder.
 
Looked on other threads.
What do you think of this one for sharpening between boards while milling?
Oregon 23736A Professional Chain Saw Bar-Mount Filing Guide
Can't afford the $300 plus jobs right now. Would the Northern Industrial Bench- or Wall-Mount Saw Chain Sharpener do the job well enough?
 
Looked on other threads.
What do you think of this one for sharpening between boards while milling?
Oregon 23736A Professional Chain Saw Bar-Mount Filing Guide
Can't afford the $300 plus jobs right now. Would the Northern Industrial Bench- or Wall-Mount Saw Chain Sharpener do the job well enough?


I run with 3 chains seem to make it for 4-6 hours. Then sharpen them at night and have them ready for the next time.Its a oregan 511a I got off ebay used for 200.00
 
What do you think of this one for sharpening between boards while milling?
Oregon 23736A Professional Chain Saw Bar-Mount Filing Guide
Granberg makes one that is similar to that one also. I just use a file and a handle. Its up to you.
Can't afford the $300 plus jobs right now. Would the Northern Industrial Bench- or Wall-Mount Saw Chain Sharpener do the job well enough?

It works but Its not a three hundred dollar sharpener. I haven't used it to much. It'll sharpen your chain. Like mtngun said its a crap shoot. Mine seems to be fine but I read a bunch of the comments about it and some people were complaining. I got what I paid for. You might want to practice on some crappy chain before you go trying it out on a new chain there's a learning curve. They can take a lot off in a hurry.


I also have a cheap $20 sharpener that I was using and it did the job also, it just didn't quite give me the right angles for ripping chain.
 
Thanks to all of you everything is ordered and should be here hopefully before the weekend. My wife can't wait to see if she can start the big saw when it's in the mill. She is a small woman but loves being out working in the woods.
Are there any threads on auxiliary blade oilers? Should I get one? Couldn't find one at Bailey's.

This is off thread but have any of you ever used a propane burner to clear ditches and fence rows of brush and weeds? The brambles here are horrible and nothing seems to kill them. The ground is very rocky and kills weed eaters.
 
Thanks to all of you everything is ordered and should be here hopefully before the weekend. My wife can't wait to see if she can start the big saw when it's in the mill. She is a small woman but loves being out working in the woods.
Are there any threads on auxiliary blade oilers? Should I get one? Couldn't find one at Bailey's.

These are very easy to make yourself.

The simplest ones I have made have been made from $10 worth of irrigation plumbing fittings, a piece of scrap metal and a bolt.
Have a look here.
 
Are there any threads on auxiliary blade oilers? Should I get one? Couldn't find one at Bailey's.
An aux oiler is very desirable. Bailey's aux oiler. The granberg oiler is mostly OK, except 1) I'd rather have a ball valve than a needle valve and 2) use a dripper instead of the supplied "injector." The injector tends to plug up.

This is off thread but have any of you ever used a propane burner to clear ditches and fence rows of brush and weeds? The brambles here are horrible and nothing seems to kill them.
Locally the road crew sprays blackberry bushes to kill them, dunno what they use. Have you tried Roundup ? Otherwise, get a few goats to eat the weeds, then eat the goats.
 
An aux oiler is very desirable. Bailey's aux oiler. The granberg oiler is mostly OK, except 1) I'd rather have a ball valve than a needle valve and 2) use a dripper instead of the supplied "injector." The injector tends to plug up.

I agree about the drip being a better method than the injector. The drip also makes it slightly easier to remove the saw/bar. If you go the injector method I recommend a click fitting from a garden hose as a connector between the aux oil tank and tehthebar.

Initially I use a single valve but found it was a pain having to adjust the flow rate every time I turned it on-off, so I set up two valves one as an on-off and the other as a flow control. But I still had the problem that the flow rate changes depending on the amount of oil left in the tank etc. Now I have a remote control valve that controlled via a bicycle gear lever and cable so I can make fine adjustments while I'm cutting.
 
BobL, your set up sounds interesting, do you have pics? I may go with the one on Bailey's for now. Also checked on the Canola prices here, they are cheaper than bar oil but olive oil is very expensive. Do you use it in the automatic oiler also?

A goat would be great, except that we are not there all the time and the wildlife ( wild boars, coyotes, maybe bears and mountain lions ) would eat her. Roundup doesn't kill it not even at more than double strength, we tried in desperation. On the other hand I don't want to kill the wildlife.
 
Hello Everyone,
Discovered a leak in the gas tank of my 076 yesterday. It's just where a ding is. Will epoxy "JB Weld" fix that?
Still waiting to try the saw. Bailey's sent the wrong chains with the bar but are really nice about exchanging them. Just have to wait until they get here. So thanks for sending me to them:clap:

Also have a question for the tree experts. When I came out to the land this weekend some of my logs had turned black with fungus. It's been hot and humid here. Also there is some funny white stuff inside our Coffee tree. Looks like rolled up white paper shoved up into the core wood but is a little thicker and leathery (quite strong).
Any idea where I should post these? Have you seen similar threads or should I start a new one? Don't want to get too far from the subjetct here.
 
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I'm not sure if the 076 tank is plastic or metal, however, I'll assume it is plastic ?

JB weld is great for repairing metal and ceramics. It is somewhat gas resistant -- the gas tank on one of my pickups has been patched with JB for several years now, and it's still holding, knock on wood.

However, JB doesn't bond to plastic worth a darn. Some people have nonetheless used JB to repair plastic gas tanks by sanding the patch area. That allows JB to form a decent mechanical bond, even though the chemical bond will be still be weak.

I've had good luck using 3M 2216 adhesive to repair plastics, including the gas tank on my Oly 980. It sticks to plastic and seems to be gas resistant. Only problem is it costs and arm and a leg and has to be ordered (I get it from McMaster Carr).

There's probably other adhesives that would work on your gas tank, but that's the extent of my experience to date.

Dunno what to tell you about your moldy trees except, yes, Arkansas is hot and humid. :laugh: You can keep your Arkansas summers.
 
Hello Everyone,
Discovered a leak in the gas tank of my 076 yesterday. It's just where a ding is. Will epoxy "JB Weld" fix that?

Metal tank so JB Weld will work. The problem with cracks is that is you will need super clean surfaces. After degreasing the inside and outside of the tank I would put raw pure ethyl alcohol in the tanks and let is bleed out through the cracks, Do this maybe 5 times. Then ideally you want to get some JB on the inside and of course outside - and fill up the ding while you are at it..

Still waiting to try the saw. Bailey's sent the wrong chains with the blade but are really nice about exchanging them.
Psst, - its called a bar.

Also there is some funny white stuff inside our Coffee tree. Looks like rolled up white paper shoved up into the core wood but is a little thicker and leathery (quite strong)..

That must be a filtered coffee tree?
 
What blade :greenchainsaw: That's what you get for talking to newbies:cheers:

Actually the tank is Aluminum, so JB should work then. Somebody suggested Acetone for cleaning but I am afraid that will dissolve any seals and hoses, alcohol sounds better. I should be able to get to the ding on the inside (with my wife's thin fingers) to clean the greasy gas off. Hopefully that'll fix it.

I really am curious what that white leather like stuff is (filtered coffee tree is good!).

Thanks guys
 
I think the metal is a cast mg alloy of some kind but it's no matter.

Here is the repair job I did on the oil tank of my 076.
attachment.php


I used raw gas to remove the bar oil, then brake parts cleaner to removed the gas, then alcohol to remove the brake parts cleaner.

The corrosion was probably caused by a previous owner cutting palms with the saw. I bought the saw with it bogged up with what looked like plastibond. Because I was going to use the 076 for milling I pulled out all the plastibond and replaced it with JB weld, after milling ~100 logs its still holding up well.
 
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Thanks to all of you everything is ordered and should be here hopefully before the weekend. My wife can't wait to see if she can start the big saw when it's in the mill. She is a small woman but loves being out working in the woods.
Are there any threads on auxiliary blade oilers? Should I get one? Couldn't find one at Bailey's.

This is off thread but have any of you ever used a propane burner to clear ditches and fence rows of brush and weeds? The brambles here are horrible and nothing seems to kill them. The ground is very rocky and kills weed eaters.

Try 2-4d, i.e. Brush/Weed B-gone. Either has around 6-7% 2-4D. That's the ingredient you need to look for spectracide has some also. I use it to kill elm and other weed tree species. Eventually, you can eradicate undesireables and only occasional follow-ups to maintain. Follow directions on the label but try to get good coverage on the whole plant. Try a test plot and see what you think.
 
076 new Carlton bar

Finally got my tank fixed with JB. Seems to work. Mg alloy was interesting, so much to learn. Also got all my stuff from Bailey's after a couple back and forth.
Now here is my newest problem. The chain will not stay in the sprocket. I bought the 36" Carlton Premium Sprocket Tip Bar with the 3/8 sprocket nose. Replaced the clutch drum and the 404 rim sprocket with 3/8. Somehow the bar and chain do not line up with the sprocket. The 2 drive lugs from the oiler that go to the clutch are about the amount of misalignment.
I thought I had seen some info about using a washer or shim but can't find it.
Got any thoughts on this?

Haven't dealt with the brambles yet. 105 and up with our humidity is way too hot for me.
 
I have no clue about the misalignment. Got pics ?

The rim is supposed to be able to float on the hub and align itself with the bar, within limits, so if it is not aligning, something must be amiss. But, I have no experience with that model.

I bought the same bar as you, a clearance 36" Carlton that I converted to 3/8", but I haven't tried it yet. It looks like a dandy, though.

Ya, fall weather is more pleasant for milling.
 
Now here is my newest problem. The chain will not stay in the sprocket. I bought the 36" Carlton Premium Sprocket Tip Bar with the 3/8 sprocket nose. Replaced the clutch drum and the 404 rim sprocket with 3/8. Somehow the bar and chain do not line up with the sprocket. The 2 drive lugs from the oiler that go to the clutch are about the amount of misalignment.
I thought I had seen some info about using a washer or shim but can't find it.
Got any thoughts on this?

Haven't dealt with the brambles yet. 105 and up with our humidity is way too hot for me.

When you put the clutch back did you rotate the clutch drum so the oil drive lugs engages with the notches in the clutch?
 
I'll try to get some pics during lunch. Yes, I rotated the clutch and it locked onto the lugs.
 

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