tbow388
Off The Air BEEEEEEEEP
I would just keep plugging away at it by myself. I have been clearing brush on mine for the last several years. Gives me some good exercise.
10 acres - Need guidance
- Thread starter MrSchaeferPants
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fuzz1500
Guest
My dad has a little Kubota mini excavator that I used for all the other tasks besides the pond digging . The excavator shown digging the pond was rented..and quite a bit bigger . Got the pond done in one day !! But......could have been done with the mini one if had to . Just would have taken a week or 2
The mini has been used to pop stumps...even big ones...just takes time and patients...and letting the hydraulics do the work !!As for the skid steer...well..theres nothing like one . My dads has steel tracks over rubber tires..thing is like a bulldozer . It is the only way to move materials !!!
You are right about a good tractor having more options though . Now that im mostly done with the "big" stuff...i have a new Kubota tractor in mind for the next few years . Just to maintain and do the normal smaller stuff ! But if you want speed and efficiency.....buy a skid . New or used . Then if you feel your chores are done with it....sell it..and snag a good tractor . Ill tell you alos..I used that old 8n for 8 years . And I used it hard . Pulling stuff with only 2 tires on the ground !! Nevr failed me....and all the parts for the old Fords can be found a lot of places..and for cheap !!
Jim Timber
1/4 bubble off
I wouldn't be able to get an 8n in there right now. I also will never finish my uses for a skidsteer. I've got 84 acres of bean pole straight wood - can't ask for better feed for a firewood processor. I want the kind you drive up to and pick up the log, then it spits it into a pile as it churns it out.
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fuzz1500
Guest
Then I think a skid is a great choice for sure !! Only if you post a pic or two..ill be happy !! I always wanted to buy a root rake/grapple for my dads..but got by without it .
What do you need to contain pigs? I've been under the impression they need more than a typical 3 wire fence to keep corraled
Ive seen them held in with one wire frequently. I always like three for the babies. They are said to be the smartest animal and I can believe it from what ive seen!
You would still have to put up a hog panel gate because they will remember the electric wire and will not cross that line. Even if the power is gone and the wire is removed they still mentally think it is there and will zap them. Found that out the hard way, and I mean the hard way!
Your pic looks exactly like where they would love to hang out. Old timers would run them in the woods and let them fatten off the mast from the trees. They would then round them up into pens and finish them on corn as the mast leaves a very brown and odorous fat on the hog. Bad stuff if you need to render lard from it!
isaaccarlson
Addicted to ArboristSite
We use electric fence for our pigs. A good 3 strand will do nicely as long as it is HOT. Get a big energizer and use at least 3 copper ground rods spaced out wide.
The first strand should be 8-12 inches off the ground and the next two should be about a foot apart or a little less. A pig's nose is very sensitive to electricity.
The first strand should be 8-12 inches off the ground and the next two should be about a foot apart or a little less. A pig's nose is very sensitive to electricity.
MrSchaeferPants
ArboristSite Lurker
Great pics. I think it helps seeing everyone's work done. I think I just feel a rush to get it all done, because it's holding up future projects. I'd like to get a house built, shed, shop, goat barn all built. But my planned area for these things are currently not cleared. I have to clear it all so I can find and manage the water issues, and build a pond to collect all the water, then clear, level and figure out exactly where to put these things. But then I'm stuck putting time and money into temporary solutions, like my goat shanty that's just there for now, but I really need to build a better, bigger barn type thing for them with a separate kidding area. I also have a small 8x12 shed for my tools, and I'm out of room, and would like to build a big one, but then I would have to move it eventually. And then renovating this crappy old single wide trailer while we live here, instead of planning and building a house, which I can't do until I accomplish the clearing/leveling. That and the urge to clear the vines/brush, because it's stangling, and girdling these small trees, and I don't permanent damage/deformations on these trees.
But at the same time, I look back at the past year we've lived here, and I do see all that I have accomplished in such a short time. I know it'll take a while.
But at the same time, I look back at the past year we've lived here, and I do see all that I have accomplished in such a short time. I know it'll take a while.
You could hire some equipment to clear the footprint for your housing area (House, shop, shed and barn).
Seems to me like what you are trying to do to manage the rest of the 10 acre forest isn't applicable to the housing area, anyway. I live in the woods and saved all the trees I could, but still had to almost entirely clear the area where the house and garage stand, so they could get it a good, level compacted foundation to build the house on.
I think you need to plan your building layout, then clear, level and compact that area with a dozer, or something similar, before worrying too much about the forest rehab. The forestry plan is a seperate issue that isn't as pressing right now - it's taken a long time to get that way, it won't change overnight.
MrSchaeferPants
ArboristSite Lurker
Ya, I had planned on having to doze, grade/flatten the building sites. But to choose the best location, and kind of see how all the water runs and where it sits, where it comes from, would be easier with it cleared out. I was thinking it could be a factor in where exactly I build. Planned on doing a soil test in the area I plan on building, granted I would probably bring in fill to create a sort of pad, so the buildings and yard area can all drain away.
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fuzz1500
Guest
Get a TOPO map......or..I know my county I live in.....has an access maps section on the county website. You can find your parcel....show elevations and the way the water runs . I figured my property out while crawling on my hands and knees..and scouting before I even cut a piece of brush . Just would hate for you to waste your time clearing the whole thing . I figured my lot out...cleared for the house and septic...then widdled my way outward . And as you say...you can build up your grade if need be . Good luck . There isnt an exact way for every situation.....gotta get out there..use your best judgment....use the advice that you find important....and just go for it !!!! Good luck
redprospector
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sorry I'm a little late to this party. I haven't been around lately.
I won't price another mans work, especially in another part of the country, but I'll give you my best guess.
A lot of guy's charge for a mulcher/masticator by the hour. It sounds pretty high unless they say it real fast, usually $150 to $200 an hour. But a good operator, and machine is well worth it. I looked at the pictures of your place that you posted and I did some real similar ground a while back. I was messing around testing out a new engine in my Fecon (mulcher in my avatar). I did 1 1/2 acres in about 3 1/2 hours, that wasn't running hard, I was just making sure everything was working right.
If you do hire someone to masticate your property, remember what it means to masticate. It simply means to chew. I'm not trying to be a smart alec, but some people chew better than others. Ask the contractor to show you some of their work, and ask for references. Make sure that what they do is the finished product that you are wanting.
Most of what I get to do here is steeper terrain than your property looks like, so It's apples to oranges. But by the acre I've charged anywhere from $500 to $2000 an acre, $2000 is ground that I have to bring in a skidder or dozer and haul off logs. I don't know if you can get 5 acres for $1500, but like I said... another mans work, another part of the country. Most of all, feel comfortable with who you hire, you need to develop somewhat of a relationship with your contractor. A relationship without trust isn't much of a relationship.
Good luck, I wish you were closer, I'd be happy to give you a bid if you were.
I won't price another mans work, especially in another part of the country, but I'll give you my best guess.
A lot of guy's charge for a mulcher/masticator by the hour. It sounds pretty high unless they say it real fast, usually $150 to $200 an hour. But a good operator, and machine is well worth it. I looked at the pictures of your place that you posted and I did some real similar ground a while back. I was messing around testing out a new engine in my Fecon (mulcher in my avatar). I did 1 1/2 acres in about 3 1/2 hours, that wasn't running hard, I was just making sure everything was working right.
If you do hire someone to masticate your property, remember what it means to masticate. It simply means to chew. I'm not trying to be a smart alec, but some people chew better than others. Ask the contractor to show you some of their work, and ask for references. Make sure that what they do is the finished product that you are wanting.
Most of what I get to do here is steeper terrain than your property looks like, so It's apples to oranges. But by the acre I've charged anywhere from $500 to $2000 an acre, $2000 is ground that I have to bring in a skidder or dozer and haul off logs. I don't know if you can get 5 acres for $1500, but like I said... another mans work, another part of the country. Most of all, feel comfortable with who you hire, you need to develop somewhat of a relationship with your contractor. A relationship without trust isn't much of a relationship.
Good luck, I wish you were closer, I'd be happy to give you a bid if you were.
Sorry I'm a little late to this party. I haven't been around lately.
I won't price another mans work, especially in another part of the country, but I'll give you my best guess.
A lot of guy's charge for a mulcher/masticator by the hour. It sounds pretty high unless they say it real fast, usually $150 to $200 an hour. But a good operator, and machine is well worth it. I looked at the pictures of your place that you posted and I did some real similar ground a while back. I was messing around testing out a new engine in my Fecon (mulcher in my avatar). I did 1 1/2 acres in about 3 1/2 hours, that wasn't running hard, I was just making sure everything was working right.
If you do hire someone to masticate your property, remember what it means to masticate. It simply means to chew. I'm not trying to be a smart alec, but some people chew better than others. Ask the contractor to show you some of their work, and ask for references. Make sure that what they do is the finished product that you are wanting.
Most of what I get to do here is steeper terrain than your property looks like, so It's apples to oranges. But by the acre I've charged anywhere from $500 to $2000 an acre, $2000 is ground that I have to bring in a skidder or dozer and haul off logs. I don't know if you can get 5 acres for $1500, but like I said... another mans work, another part of the country. Most of all, feel comfortable with who you hire, you need to develop somewhat of a relationship with your contractor. A relationship without trust isn't much of a relationship.
Good luck, I wish you were closer, I'd be happy to give you a bid if you were.
I like that masticator. Looks like it does a very good job of clearing out the undergrowth without tearing up the ground like a dozer.
redprospector
Addicted to ArboristSite
Just about all masticator's will do that, it all depends on the operator. Does he know what he's doing, or maybe does he care. Is he in a hurry to get your little job out of the way so he can get on to something else, or does he want to do a good job. Then there is always the land owners part, are you willing to pay a little more to get that good job. A real clean job takes a little more time than a hack & slash.
This shows a project with a "little" more material that was chewed up. It was in a forest fire 13 years ago, so everything went. There were some 20" logs that got ground up here.
This shows a project with a "little" more material that was chewed up. It was in a forest fire 13 years ago, so everything went. There were some 20" logs that got ground up here.
MrSchaeferPants
ArboristSite Lurker
Thats my thought proccess, leaves the ground fairly undisturbed, chews it all up, that's all I want. Rather 'mulch' the ground, than scrape away all the top soil with a dozer. That last pick is about the size I'd need here. And my hill isn't nearly as steep as that one picture.
As far as the one guy I called (again) last week, still hasn't got in contact with me (again). So I'm done with that particular company. What it seemed to me, was a bigger company (national or regional) that hires local subcontractors.
As far as the one guy I called (again) last week, still hasn't got in contact with me (again). So I'm done with that particular company. What it seemed to me, was a bigger company (national or regional) that hires local subcontractors.
I think you hit the nail on the head with that statement.
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