12" bar or 14" bar on climbing saw?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I have a rather unusual cutting technique when I'm cutting big wood with my ms200's. I use the top of my bar for the cut, my left hand on the main handle controlling the throttle with my little finger, with my right hand on the rope snap attached to the saw's wire ring on the back, cutting from right to left.

Using this unusual method causes less clogging and binding because it throws the sawdust away from the saw, it gives me superior leverage off the dawgs, and I've found that my cuts always meet when I circle around big vertical wood much bigger than my 14 inch bar length.

Sometimes I wonder if I'm the only climber that uses this unusual cutting method when chunking down big vertical wood.

Do any of you use this method, or understand what I'm talking about?

I guess I could post a vid of it if you guys think I'm crazy, don't make me do it!

jomoco
 
I have done that as well, depending on the winds.
But dropping a limb creates a new set of problems using that technuiqe.
 
Hi all,

I have a Stihl 192 TC. Currently it has a 14" bar. I have a 12" on order. I found the 14" to be a tad awkward while in the tree, now granted I'm a noob. What do the pro's usually use, 12" or 14"? Thanks!

back to your question..

i run a 200t with a 14" bar.. use that about 90% of the time.. but i fly a bucket.. so the weight thing isn't an issue..

i don't really like the 192t with a 14" bar, the few times i've used one.. it might proform better with the 12" bar.. but i never tried it , and a 12" bar really doesn't suit my work... and i really don't like the 192t, compared to the200t.. but thats me..( WHATS UP WITH THE OTHER CHOKE LEVER ?) JMHO

but thats all it is, an opinion !!! what works for me might not work for you...
 
so you quote me from 2 different threads trying to make YOUR point.
Well lets tell this newbie what SHOULD be done, not just what YOU can do.

the stump quote was meant to show that a mid sized saw can do a big stump. different thread and context entirely, but hey if it makes YOUR point, drag it all the site, I don't care.
anybody can type.
I post pics.
I don't know what your problem is but you need to drop it with me, I posted the two quotes because one contradicted the other after you slammed me for making a simple statement so get off my back, you say in this thread that you have to have a big saw and bar to cut the big wood and then in another thread you say you cut big 4' to 5' stumps with a 28 inch saw so looks to me that you can't make up your mind what POINT YOU are trying to make...............

anybody can type.
I post pics.
trying to prove your point or do you want a cookie or should I rep you?
 
Last edited:
I've got a 192t with a 12" and a 200t with a 14". The 12" is da bomb for heavy prunning like John said. It hangs real nice and is easier to move in the tree with. I wouldn't want a bigger bar on my 192t since I cut a lot of hardwood and the 12" keeps the saw in the snuff band.

Snuff band eh? What's that?
 
I don't know what your problem is but you need to drop it with me, I posted the two quotes because one contradicted the other after you slammed me for making a simple statement so get off my back, you say in this thread that you have to have a big saw and bar to cut the big wood and then in another thread you say you cut big 4' to 5' stumps with a 28 inch saw so looks to me that you can't make up your mind what POINT YOU are trying to make...............

trying to prove your point or do you want a cookie or should I rep you?

I'm just advising a beginner that it is safer and faster to size the saw to the wood rather than fight it and maybe have an accident.

the stump quote was to show that if my biggest saw working on that job is a mid sized saw, I can cut the stump regardless. not every company has monster saws. I use what they have, and Git her done.
I'm a contract climber.

sorry you take it so personal, I'm not here to slam you. you paid your dues.
 
Hi all,

I have a Stihl 192 TC. Currently it has a 14" bar. I have a 12" on order. I found the 14" to be a tad awkward while in the tree, now granted I'm a noob. What do the pro's usually use, 12" or 14"? Thanks!

Hey Plasmech, I guess the answer to your question would be
"d:-all of the above."
The Pros use 12" & 14", some even use 16". If your'e finding the 14" awkward, maybe you'll like the 12" that you have on order.
Remember, opinions are like arseholes, everyone has one.:laugh:
 
Rep parts have always been a joke to me as too many buddies slapping each others backs can sit there and rep each other to the moon

Mutual admiration club. Though I do like looking at the comments on the rep given to me from time to time. I like to know that some people actually get something from my blatherings.

As for the thing about not being able to control a fell with an undersized bar, I can bore cut nearly 30 inches with my 12 inch bar. I just do not like to.

Only if I have to make one oversized cut now and then I will forgo the bigger saw.

I can see not wanting a bigger saw if moving around a 150 ft euc all day, we just do not have those scales around here. Big trees spread wide, not wide and high. Except for a few cottonwoods.

On occasion, with the very wide spreading trees, Ive lashed my medium saw into the inner canopy and swapped it out myself for the big limb cuts when rigging with the GRCS.
 
I am of the opinion that while the ms200T is the best climb saw currently sold, it is not the most powerful climb saw. The old magnesium cased 020T actually has more raw power, despite being a bit temperamental and not being as well balanced.

I still have a magnesium cased 020T in excellent condition that I can prove my opinion with.

jomoco

correction, that saw was called the 020Super......the 020T was the same as the MS200T, just minor changes like carbs etc.


and neither will cut as fast as my muffler modded jonsered 2139/33* Husky.....which is also lighter

not even close.....

$250 less and better saws.....

Using a climb saw to cut big wood is not wise..especially if the saw costs $600. Too slow as well.

Run modded saws and don't look back.....which allows me to run 3 cube saws aloft in 20-24 inch wood and have great power.z

Sure, an accomplished cutter can make proper faces, hinges, and backcuts with a bar that is shorter than the cut....as I was doing last night in the dark finishing a storm tree, (on steep ground, after bringing it down, trying to miss the dirt, good part was the bar tip was easy to keep clear of it, but as the cuts weren't going all the way through, it made it harder to get the work done. took two three of us to roll the logs over.....)but why, if you have a long bar, use it, it's so much easier to keep from cutting hinge wood out.
 
Last edited:
correction, that saw was called the 020Super......the 020T was the same as the MS200T, just minor changes like carbs etc.


and neither will cut as fast as my muffler modded jonsered 2139/33* Husky.....which is also lighter

not even close.....

$250 less and better saws.....

Using a climb saw to cut big wood is not wise..especially if the saw costs $600. Too slow as well.

Run modded saws and don't look back.....which allows me to run 3 cube saws aloft in 20-24 inch wood and have great power.z

Sure, an accomplished cutter can make proper faces, hinges, and backcuts with a bar that is shorter than the cut....as I was doing last night in the dark finishing a storm tree, (on steep ground, after bringing it down, trying to miss the dirt, good part was the bar tip was easy to keep clear of it, but as the cuts weren't going all the way through, it made it harder to get the work done. took two three of us to roll the logs over.....)but why, if you have a long bar, use it, it's so much easier to keep from cutting hinge wood out.

Got a question for yu RB. Do you ever grip your climb saw in this unusual manner when chunking down moderate sized vertical spars?

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=QadqcPOtiZM

jomoco
 
We're talking in circles here about 14" or 12". But lets talk chain. I sometimes run the little .043 PMN chain with a 14" on my MS200, now here is a quick cutting combination.
 
Last edited:
I have a rather unusual cutting technique when I'm cutting big wood with my ms200's. I use the top of my bar for the cut, my left hand on the main handle controlling the throttle with my little finger, with my right hand on the rope snap attached to the saw's wire ring on the back, cutting from right to left.

Using this unusual method causes less clogging and binding because it throws the sawdust away from the saw, it gives me superior leverage off the dawgs, and I've found that my cuts always meet when I circle around big vertical wood much bigger than my 14 inch bar length.

Sometimes I wonder if I'm the only climber that uses this unusual cutting method when chunking down big vertical wood.

Do any of you use this method, or understand what I'm talking about?

I guess I could post a vid of it if you guys think I'm crazy, don't make me do it!

jomoco


http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=QadqcPOtiZM

I get it, I really am crazy!

jomoco
 
I run 16" bars on my 200t and 192. my echo cs330pos wears a 14".
the name says it all lol:greenchainsaw:
i cant imagine the 192 gettin much work done with a 16in bar on her it must be a bigbore with no muffler !
 
Last edited:
Back
Top