141 Husky & The Crap Dumpomatic Choke

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drizler

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OK let me start by fully acknowledging my 141 like all the rest are a POS. First one blew up due to a carb mount nut getting into the crank shaft and wrecking it and they gave me a new one. At least the first one started and ran good. The new one now a few years old with no real use on it is a pure *&^ to start just like day one. If it had either a throttle lock or a primer bulb or a choke that I could control it would work but for the wisdom of our wonderful government. This puppy just defies any means of controlling that choke. Has anyone ever figured out a way to beat that throttle dump mechanism that is workable? I had someone tune it up and it still is a monster to get running due to the lack of a controllable choke.
Yes I know it should be tossed into a dumpster but since I don't use it all that much I would like to at least get some use out of it. I removed the dump spring but of course that lets the choke flop around and the way its built there is no way to remove the plastic choke rod to remove it so I can drill the casing out oversize and insert a rubber grommet to friction lock the choke rod. Currently it utilizes a piece of duck tape which would work fine but for the oily nature of a saw. What a pain for nothing due to bureaucrats and their foolish ideas!!!! I did think of slitting the case or drilling above the choke rod to remove it and then drilling large enough to insert a friction gormmet. What I would really love to do is stick this saw up the gazoo of the knucklehead bunnyhuggerat that dreamed up this auto dump choke. Trouble is I have to get it running first.
 
I cut the limit tabs off the H & L screws and adjust it to run, to hell with the EPA.
Are the High and Low screws and idle speed adjusted correctly?
Do you always use clean fresh fuel thats not over a month old?

I have a 141 and 136(gave it to my son) . Both are 1999 models and have always ran great and still do.
I crank mine this way
1. Turn switch on
2. Pull choke out, After pulling rope a few times it fires and runs a few seconds.
3. Push choke off, pull rope, it fires and runs on fast idle.
4. let it run on fast idle 30 to 45 seconds,in cold weather a minute.
5. Blip throttle, comes off fast idle, ready to cut.

6. Important part: Run it a few minutes for fun, turn it off and fire the 346xp up.
 
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Ditto that for mine, runs great. Don't know if longwood and I are lucky or what. Nice lineup longwood.
 
I got a new 136 about a month ago. I needed a saw that the girl could start. I had to get rid of that stainless steel muffler and do a port job on it, now it starts just fine. I wonder if nitro-methane will make it have any power. :chainsaw:
 
Yea the first thing to go was those limiters. I had my longtime buddy and husky owner tune it up. It ran fine like it did before but it just won't stay running any better as the second you touch the trigger it dumps that damned choke and it stalls out. Infuriating.
 
Yea the first thing to go was those limiters. I had my longtime buddy and husky owner tune it up. It ran fine like it did before but it just won't stay running any better as the second you touch the trigger it dumps that damned choke and it stalls out. Infuriating.

Drizler, the owners manual for the latest model 141 says to let it fast idle for 5 seconds before blipping the throttle to release the fast idle. See page 9. http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HOUS/HOUS2003/HOUS2003_00301010.pdf
 
You might try setting the carb a little richer. It should idle ok, maybe try the low setting first. Make sure nothing is restricting the fuel flow. Does it run good when it is warmed up ?
 
+1

You might try setting the carb a little richer. It should idle ok, maybe try the low setting first. Make sure nothing is restricting the fuel flow. Does it run good when it is warmed up ?

The 141 is a great running saw - carb settings are a bit fussy though.

Al :cheers:
 
Wow!
Ten replies and nobody has told him to buy a Stihl yet! :jawdrop:
Sooorrrrrrrrreeeeeeeeee!

Actually, ridding the carb of those pesky Gumbermint limiters may just cure the hard starting problem. I did the same thing to my Mildthing and it starts and idles like never before.
 
I just tore the side cover off it and lo and behold the plastic recoil mount is snapped off the mounting. No doubt too many times rolling it over at TDC. Thats enough for me. I forgot all about that slippage thing the last time I had an adventure with it. Not going to fix it now for sure, may be some day but it had better be damned cheap. Actually I have a small Stihl 99 which blew its coil after long service and lots of abuse. Nice hang it on the tractor machine or for tree climbing. Time to go looking for a decent Stihl for sure.
I don't think much of all the stressed plastic parts on the machine. There is plastic and then there is plastic and the Husky uses the cheap stuff. I have a glock 23 that has fired at least 6 heavy overloads thanks to a batch of bad stuff by Federal and I got ahold of as practice ammo provided by Customs back when they gave us the stuff. The first one broke the extractor and the rest never missed a beat aside from kicking like a 44 mag with a mid load. Pretty heavy testimony to the strength of GOOD plastic when you consider the hammering those frame rails must have given it. Add to that the thousands of rounds of full loads I pumped through that thing with 13 years of qualifications to boot. Glock plastic good husky plastic poo:mad:
Do all the saws today have this cursed auto drop choke or is that something peculiar to this like of saws? I see the better ones have a different type of choke. So for the guy who is looking for a medium sized decent saw which will do medium duty cutting for someone heating partially with wood.
 
drizler, there is no auto drop choke. There is a choke knob that chokes the carb when it is fully extended (pulled out) then when you push the choke in the choke is off. The fast idle is set when you pull out the choke and push it back in. Have you or your saw friend changed the idle speed setting to such a slow setting that it can't run? Have you read page nine of the owners manual? Reread post seven.
 
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drizler, there is no auto drop choke. There is a choke knob that chokes the carb when it is fully extended (pulled out) then when you push the choke in the choke is off. The fast idle is set when you pull out the choke and push it back in. Have you or your saw friend changed the idle speed setting to such a slow setting that it can't run? Have you read page nine of the owners manual? Reread post six.

scottr; Good post and from what I have read you nailed the problem!

Dumpomatic Choke is this something Ron Popeel (sp.) invented?
 
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scottr; Good post and from what I have read you nailed the problem!

Dumpomatic Choke is this something Ron Popeel (sp.) invented?
I remember the vegamatic and the pocket fisherman but don't know if electrolux invented the choke/fast idle feature. I wonder if the dumpomatic choke has some thing to do with taking you exlax or you're gonna die. :)
 
drizler, there is no auto drop choke. There is a choke knob that chokes the carb when it is fully extended (pulled out) then when you push the choke in the choke is off. The fast idle is set when you pull out the choke and push it back in. Have you or your saw friend changed the idle speed setting to such a slow setting that it can't run? Have you read page nine of the owners manual? Reread post seven.

:dizzy: OH CONTRAIR or however you spell it:dizzy:
Let me be real clear on that one. You just touch the trigger in the slightest and it is spring loaded back to full off.:jawdrop: Could be they did away with it in a simple shot of wisdom but mine and the one I had rerplaced under warranty both operated like that. No wonder the cursed recoil starter broke with all the cranking. It might even work all right in the South or in a test lab but that sort of choke without so much as a primer bulb is a sure recipe for failure. No throttle lock either so its even more crippled.
I Just happened to go into Home Depot today and there wasn't so much as one Husky in there. Even the cheaperer Homelites had a push pull chokes that stayed put. I did see a decent looking Echo 400 sitting there for $260. It even looks like the choke works" for real" and it even has a primer bulb.
 
:dizzy: OH CONTRAIR or however you spell it:dizzy:
Let me be real clear on that one. You just touch the trigger in the slightest and it is spring loaded back to full off.:jawdrop: Could be they did away with it in a simple shot of wisdom but mine and the one I had rerplaced under warranty both operated like that. No wonder the cursed recoil starter broke with all the cranking. It might even work all right in the South or in a test lab but that sort of choke without so much as a primer bulb is a sure recipe for failure. No throttle lock either so its even more crippled.
I Just happened to go into Home Depot today and there wasn't so much as one Husky in there. Even the cheaperer Homelites had a push pull chokes that stayed put. I did see a decent looking Echo 400 sitting there for $260. It even looks like the choke works" for real" and it even has a primer bulb.

it's spelled as 'au contraire'.

Looks like your choke is not working correctly or carb is badly tuned. The 141 is not a POS and good value for the money imo (I base my opinion on my former 136 here). Has this problem occurred from the beginning or just lately ? The choke is a very simple operation normally.
 
:dizzy: OH CONTRAIR or however you spell it:dizzy:
Let me be real clear on that one. You just touch the trigger in the slightest and it is spring loaded back to full off.:jawdrop: Could be they did away with it in a simple shot of wisdom but mine and the one I had rerplaced under warranty both operated like that. No wonder the cursed recoil starter broke with all the cranking. It might even work all right in the South or in a test lab but that sort of choke without so much as a primer bulb is a sure recipe for failure. No throttle lock either so its even more crippled.
I Just happened to go into Home Depot today and there wasn't so much as one Husky in there. Even the cheaperer Homelites had a push pull chokes that stayed put. I did see a decent looking Echo 400 sitting there for $260. It even looks like the choke works" for real" and it even has a primer bulb.
drizler, if you'll look on page 13 of the owners manual it says to turn the idle screw (the one marked 'T') clockwise to increase the idle speed. The design of the choke/fast idle system is suppose to return the saw rpm from fast idle to normal idle when the throttle trigger is blipped (depressed). Why don't you take the top and air filter off of your saw and look and operate the choke to see for yourself. Then maybe you'll understand the idle speed (T) adjustment.
 
I love the Husky choke/throttle set up. If your saw is not idling, it's not a choke problem. The carb is most likely mal adjusted. Something being misadjusted is further evident from your own admission that the first one started and ran good.
 
I love the Husky choke/throttle set up. If your saw is not idling, it's not a choke problem. The carb is most likely mal adjusted. Something being misadjusted is further evident from your own admission that the first one started and ran good.

Yup, it ran real good until it sucked a carb mounting nut. Crankshafts don't like that. Dealer never heard of it happening but Husky sure did. A real prize. As for the carb we never could get it to really catch reliably without dying out even with the plugs removed. I think for now that puppy is going under the bench in the hope some day I feel like messing around with it which I probably won't .
 

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