I have been through past posts and it seems like the guys that know what they are doing use a 32 to 1 mix. They say saws run good. They also say use 89 octane with no ethanol. This sounds right as my outboard runs better with no ethanol. Cant prove it but it seems no ethanol gas absorbs less moisture and stores a little better.I have no proof of this just how I think the outboard runs. Now if a guy wants to take care of a good Stihl chainsaw properly what 2 cycle and bar oil should he use?
2 cycle oil again !!!!
- Thread starter 4pwr
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Lawn Masters
Addicted to ArboristSite
I use a good synthetic 2 stroke oil. regular Husky, stihl or Echo brand oils will work with now negative effects to my knowledge as well. as long as you use a decent oil formulated for air cooled 2 stroke engines at the proper ratio in your saws, you wont see a problem.
2Coilinveins
Former Member
oldsaw-addict said:
What Oldsaw said. I use Mobil MX2T(now Racing 2T) @ 32:1 in premium gas.
Just about anything works as bar oil. ATF, gear oil, motor oil, hydraulic fluid, whatever. Stay away from used motor oil, lots of nasties. In a pinch, even real live bar oil from a saw shop works.
I use plain vegi oil from the grocery store in my saws with no problems.
Al Smith
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well it's your saw ,use Wesson oil if you want,but I prefer regular bar oil.Bar oil has a tacking agent,similar to STP.This holds on or clings to the bar and chain better than oil without this additive.
jimbo1490
ArboristSite Guru
Absorbing moisture is not a problem, really; there's always moisture around, after all. If your fuel would absolutely NOT mix with any water at all, then any water that happened into the fuel would remain as discrete drops of water. These will stop a carbeurator dead until they are manually cleaned out.
The problem with alcohols in fuels comes from their slight corrosive nature, attacking some plastics and rubbers and poor energy density. All the oxygenated fuels are less stable in storage and ethanol mixes are no different. There's a whole other debate about 'oxygenates' WRT modern fuels but it's generally agreed that alcohols are among the poorest of the available oxygenates. They are an inexpensive and expedient additive, however and have significant econmomic impact for the farmers who grow the crops that become ethanol. That and rhetoric from the enviro-wackos account for the popularity of this additive.
Jimbo
The problem with alcohols in fuels comes from their slight corrosive nature, attacking some plastics and rubbers and poor energy density. All the oxygenated fuels are less stable in storage and ethanol mixes are no different. There's a whole other debate about 'oxygenates' WRT modern fuels but it's generally agreed that alcohols are among the poorest of the available oxygenates. They are an inexpensive and expedient additive, however and have significant econmomic impact for the farmers who grow the crops that become ethanol. That and rhetoric from the enviro-wackos account for the popularity of this additive.
Jimbo
Use minimum 91 octane in modern saws or even better 93-94 octane if you can get it and all from reputable brand stations or refiners with large quantity volumes. Purchase quality name brand oils from Stihl, Echo, Jonsered, Husky, Exxon etc. or synthetics from companies such as Mobil or Amsoil and you can not go wrong.
Personally I also add fuel stabilizer to my mix over and above the aforementioned.
Personally I also add fuel stabilizer to my mix over and above the aforementioned.
njforestfire
ArboristSite Operative
mktest said:
It lightens your wallet quicker!!
IMO - no need to run higher octane unless racing.
njforestfire
ArboristSite Operative
I do believe in a quality pre-mix oil...for that's what's lubricating the insides.
woodshop
Addicted to ArboristSite
...from what other guys have said on here, I think the theory is that adding oil to gas lowers the octane a bit, so you want to start with high octane gas to begin with. Personally, for the gallon or two I use every few weeks the extra 20 cents is not an economic hardship. I understand some of these folks with businesses use much more, and at that point it might become an issue.mktest said:
Stumper
One Man Band
MKtest, The manufacturers HAVE adjusted the timing. In th old days we were told that octane didn't matter in 2-cycles-and in the engines that were turning 9500-10000 max no load RPMs it didn't. The designers uped performance-now we have saws turning from 12,500 to nearly 15,000 RPM. The owners manuals are now reccomending mid-grade fuels(read carefully to understand which rating method is specified and do the math and that is where we come out on US gasoline). I personally run premium in hot weather beacause I have found that it eliminates vapor lock issues when the temps soar.
Blowdown1
ArboristSite Operative
I think my 359 manual actually calls for 91, but I know it is at least 89. One of the local dealers claims that premium will destroy the diphragm in the carb. I run it anyway, and he is also the same guy that told me to run a different plug than what Husqvarna specs.
The other benefit is that octane will decrease over time, so if you are like me and have a gallon to use for a couple weeks, then I think it makes sense to go ahead and spend and extra couple nickels.
The other benefit is that octane will decrease over time, so if you are like me and have a gallon to use for a couple weeks, then I think it makes sense to go ahead and spend and extra couple nickels.
Blowdown1
ArboristSite Operative
Oh, and on another note (back to the actual thread):
I was given a bunch of Poulan and Craftsman oil (mix) by my father in law. Are these the same as the Husqvarna oil? I have a fair amount of the stuff and want to use it up but I may just use that for the cheap WeedEater.
I was given a bunch of Poulan and Craftsman oil (mix) by my father in law. Are these the same as the Husqvarna oil? I have a fair amount of the stuff and want to use it up but I may just use that for the cheap WeedEater.
Stumper
One Man Band
I ran Poulan oil-mixed at 32/1 for years without any oil related problems but I have switched to higher quality synthetics. The Poulan stuff is a tad more prone to leaving carbon deposits
Butch(OH)
Addicted to ArboristSite
2Coilinveins said:What Oldsaw said. I use Mobil MX2T(now Racing 2T) @ 32:1 in premium gas.
Just about anything works as bar oil. ATF, gear oil, motor oil, hydraulic fluid, whatever. Stay away from used motor oil, lots of nasties. In a pinch, even real live bar oil from a saw shop works.
I too have used packaged "bar oil" and can also attest that it works in a pinch when I cant find anything else handy. LOL. Actualy I aquired a drum of #68 gear oil many years ago and it has been my bar lube ever since.
ripper
ArboristSite Lurker
oil mix
i use mobil mx2t symthetic and 93 octane i have also have noticed you
don"t get the dino smell on your clothes using syntheics
i use mobil mx2t symthetic and 93 octane i have also have noticed you
don"t get the dino smell on your clothes using syntheics
bvaught
ArboristSite Operative
MX2T and 100LL Avgas. It doesnt get any better than that.
2Coilinveins
Former Member
Bvaught-
100LL in my saws didn't do much. I got better midrange torque but the high end just went away. This was in a Poulan disposeable, an MS360, and a buddie's 372xp. I tuned like I do for normal gas, did I do something wrong? The results I got weren't worth the extra $$, and definitely not worth the trip across town to the airport. I'd really appreciate any tips you could give me on this one. Love the smell, though.
100LL in my saws didn't do much. I got better midrange torque but the high end just went away. This was in a Poulan disposeable, an MS360, and a buddie's 372xp. I tuned like I do for normal gas, did I do something wrong? The results I got weren't worth the extra $$, and definitely not worth the trip across town to the airport. I'd really appreciate any tips you could give me on this one. Love the smell, though.
