20' 8x8 tie beam

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redoak

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
58
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Location
central NH
Hi all,

I'm taking the week off to work on the barn project. Yesterday I tried out a jig called "The Beam Machine." WTF! I cannot see how that jig could possibly maintain a straight cut. There is at least 3/16 wiggle at the jig, which translates to a BIG mess in the cut. I'm sending it back. I'm guessing I should have bought the mini-mill... right? Live and learn.

Anyway, I switched back to the super strut rails and the Alaskan mill. A serious pain in the butt moving that around solo. The results are plenty good for timber framing work. So the pictures are one shot of the BM's (ha! great acronym for that piece!) messy cut, then shots of the process with the Alaskan. 20' 8x8 in white pine, a little wane on one face as the log had a bit of a jog toward the small end.

Talk to me about the mini mill. Does it maintain a solid cut or do you find you have to "free hand" a bit to keep things straight.

-redoak

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Mini mill works fine for me. I take off the top of the log with my Alaskan then take the sides off with the mini. Then I roll the log over to start slabbing on the mini side because it is invariably straighter. Nice strut rail setup.
 
Yeah, you don't get much for your money with those Beam Machines. I have one I picked up at a yard sale for $5 and that was a waste. I haven't used an actual Granberg Mini-Mill as I built my own knockoff, but from what I understand it is guided by rails which are basically pieces of aluminum angle inverted to provide an "A" shape, which corresponds with a "V" groove on the mill. I could be wrong though.
 
Yeah, you don't get much for your money with those Beam Machines. I have one I picked up at a yard sale for $5 and that was a waste. I haven't used an actual Granberg Mini-Mill as I built my own knockoff, but from what I understand it is guided by rails which are basically pieces of aluminum angle inverted to provide an "A" shape, which corresponds with a "V" groove on the mill. I could be wrong though.

I'll have to unbox mine and have a look:)
 
Yeah, you don't get much for your money with those Beam Machines. I have one I picked up at a yard sale for $5 and that was a waste. I haven't used an actual Granberg Mini-Mill as I built my own knockoff, but from what I understand it is guided by rails which are basically pieces of aluminum angle inverted to provide an "A" shape, which corresponds with a "V" groove on the mill. I could be wrong though.

Yeah,THey come with 12ft. of A rails that you screw to a 2x6.Then it follows the rail.The mini mill is easier on your back that the alaskan and works as good as well. They ARE Great! Mark
 
few more pics

Hi All,

Few more pics here of my work with the 20' tie beams. I'll tell you what, cutting these with the chainsaw mill gives me a whole new perspective on the guys who did this work with a broad axe! Makes me believe in Paul Bunyan! Those boys knew what a days work was all about.

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Ran out of light for the last log. What a beauty! 20 feet long, probably 22" -18" diameter on each end. White pine. Should get some incidental lumber out of it as well as a boxed heart 8x8. My little ford could only lift one end at a time to get it up onto the saw crib. I've really grown fond of that crib, working at waist height makes everything a lot easier.

-redoak
 
Wow sweet setup you've done your homework I am envious of the whole project!! Hope you had fun on you week "off" I bet even after the hard work it was a theraputic vaction!! Thanks for the pics very inspiring! Please keep us posted on the progress great job thanks alot irishcountry
 
Looks nice! Working with beams is a totally different animal than boards.I always feel the difference at the end of the day.I like your rail system,I'm still using a 2x6 as i do alot of my milling in the woods and travel as lite as i can.Do you plan on using a mini mill in the future for the sides so you don't have to roll the cant? Your back will thank you, as it's alot easier to use than the alaskan.;)
 
Slabmaster,

I hear you, that next log will be a 20' 8"x20" cant, probably weighs over 500 lbs. But the nice thing about the crib is you can lift the ends as 1/4 hangs off the other end of the crib rail. I've found that with a few blocks to get things positioned the cant tips right up. Got to work smart with these big logs, especially working solo. A mini-mill is in my future, but probably not in time for this project.

-redoak
 
last one!

some pictures of the last tie beam. This log was 22" by 20' long. Had to lift it onto the crib with the tractor one end at a time. Second picture with the chain is the only way I could get the cant stood up so I could square it off. Sure helps to have forks!

Got a bunch of great slabing off that log as well that I'll mill up someother time.

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-redoak
 
Your making me feel really lazy!! You have been busting you butt of this stuff its good ispriration!! You have proven someone with some drive can really make this happen its something I want to do one day and I will look back at these posts for direction for that I say thanks! Keep em' coming really wish you the best this is why I love this site many talented smart people that contribute this kind on information and don't mind taking the time to share their knowledge for the rest of us. Great stuff thank you irishcountry
 
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