Granberg Small log mill

[lapointe]

Hi there, I'm new to the milling forum and am in need of some advice. I'm going to be building a timber frame house in the future for myself and would like a mill to start on some posts (8x8, 10x10, etc.) and boards. I was looking at the Granberg small log mill for my MS 460 with a 20" bar. I figure for $140 bucks it's worth a shot. My neighbor has a Peterson ATS and is willing to mill me posts, boards, etc. but will charge me. Is it worth tackling it solo with the Alaskan style mill or have him mill the beams for me for cost. Also, has anyone used a 460 for milling? How does it hold up? I can't justify buying a 660, or another larger saw just for milling. Eventually I'd like to get a swing blade or band saw mill, but I can't afford one now.

 

[the westspartan]

Hi there, I'm new to the milling forum and am in need of some advice. I'm going to be building a timber frame house in the future for myself and would like a mill to start on some posts (8x8, 10x10, etc.) and boards. I was looking at the Granberg small log mill for my MS 460 with a 20" bar. I figure for $140 bucks it's worth a shot. My neighbor has a Peterson ATS and is willing to mill me posts, boards, etc. but will charge me. Is it worth tackling it solo with the Alaskan style mill or have him mill the beams for me for cost. Also, has anyone used a 460 for milling? How does it hold up? I can't justify buying a 660, or another larger saw just for milling. Eventually I'd like to get a swing blade or band saw mill, but I can't afford one now.

I use a very similar setup and I have done quite well with it. I use the small log mill with an MS 441. The 441, as you know, is a little smaller than your 460 and I have had no problems. I mostly mill softwoods up to 25" diameter and it is a dream combo. I have milled some hardwood with this setup and it does fine, but for softwood it is perfect. I am sure you will be using softwood for you home, so it should work out well.

*note* You certainly don't need to modify your 460, but with a mild woods port it will even better for milling. I had my 441 ported this winter by a fellow AS member and it just screams through the slabs.

 

[HUCKLEBERRY]

Hi there, I'm new to the milling forum and am in need of some advice. I'm going to be building a timber frame house in the future for myself and would like a mill to start on some posts (8x8, 10x10, etc.) and boards.

It would be awesome if you could keep us up to date on your house progress. I'm a fellow timber framer and would love to see some owner built projects as I plan to build my own home when I can afford it.

 

[luvsaws]

It would be awesome if you could keep us up to date on your house progress. I'm a fellow timber framer and would love to see some owner built projects as I plan to build my own home when I can afford it.

:agree2:

 

[lapointe]

milling rails

The house pics may take awhile, but the timber frame shed pics will make it on. Are there any other options for a guide rail system other then 2x4's? The chances of finding a straight one these days is nearly impossible. I like the aluminum ones that granberg produces, but I'm not paying 150-200 bucks for them. Any solutions? Also, would milling damage my 460? Obviously if you didn't maintain it, but you could eat of mine, I'm fairly ocd about them.

 

[smokinj]

Hi there, I'm new to the milling forum and am in need of some advice. I'm going to be building a timber frame house in the future for myself and would like a mill to start on some posts (8x8, 10x10, etc.) and boards. I was looking at the Granberg small log mill for my MS 460 with a 20" bar. I figure for $140 bucks it's worth a shot. My neighbor has a Peterson ATS and is willing to mill me posts, boards, etc. but will charge me. Is it worth tackling it solo with the Alaskan style mill or have him mill the beams for me for cost. Also, has anyone used a 460 for milling? How does it hold up? I can't justify buying a 660, or another larger saw just for milling. Eventually I'd like to get a swing blade or band saw mill, but I can't afford one now.

I was in the same boat with the 460 decided to use the 460 for edging and an 880 for the 36in mill just didnt think the 460 would fold up in the long run as the main saw.

 

[mtngun]

Are there any other options for a guide rail system other then 2x4's? The chances of finding a straight one these days is nearly impossible. I like the aluminum ones that granberg produces, but I'm not paying 150-200 bucks for them. Any solutions? Also, would milling damage my 460? Obviously if you didn't maintain it, but you could eat of mine, I'm fairly ocd about them.

Look through the threads here and you'll see various guide systems being used. Planks, 2x4s, aluminum ladders, unistrut. They all work, they all have drawbacks, and (except for homemade planks) they all cost money.

Milling is hard on a saw. Tune the "H" screw a little richer than normal. Make sure the air filter is sealing well. Let the saw idle for two minutes after cutting a slab.

 

[WoodRipper]

I use a section of an aluminum extension ladder for making the first cut. A ladder I already owned so it cost me nothing. I attach it to the log with drywall screws through a couple of pieces of 3/4 plywood which are cut to fit between the ladder rails. A shim here or there to make sure the ladder is straight down the whole length and stable, and I'm good to go. Milling with a chainsaw and an Alaskan Mill is pretty tough work, but it's about the cheapest way to get high quality lumber. So if you've got the motivation and time, you certainly can make a house this way. And you'll be in awesome shape, and very tired, when you're done. If you use ripping chains - I like Oregon RD best- you can mill boards every bit as good as from a bandsaw mill. Take good care of your saw by cleaning it everyday and it should be fine. Good luck.