Wanting a narrower chain for milling on my 460 rancher/husqvarna 555

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cluelessmontana

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I recently moved to NW Montana from TX and have a lot of milling to do as beetles have killed 90% of the mature ponderosa pines on my property https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/9wxj0vivaocgujz/Studio_Project.mp4 (this is just a small section of it, the property looks like this all over, easily hundreds of these dead trees) which actually has this kinda cool "blue" coloring in the wood from the beetles . I attached these to the post as well incase external links arent allowed.

Anyway, I have been milling with my 460 rancher and a 20"/24" bar on it and the granberg small log mill until the 460 rancher broke (its currently @ warranty repair shop) and then I bought a used 555 locally because it was the only affordable option but also can use all my current bars and chains. Anyway, I want to try a thinner or narrower chain because someone that I watch on youtube with a stihl Ms261 which uses a narrower chain can mill quite a bit faster than me with either of my saws. Granted, that ms261 at 50cc is more powerful than my 460 rancher at 60cc, but it is not more powerful than the 555. Since I have a ton of milling to do, I figured I would look into using a thinner chain to see if it would save me some time which would add up considerably over the course of lots of milling.

My initial research pointed me toward .325 narrow kerf options like this oregon 20" bar https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/speedcutâ„¢-guide-bar,-20"/p/200txlbk095 or the 18" version https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078YM4HTH. Both say they will work for my saws but they are .325 pitch and my saw is 3/8 pitch so I would almost certainly have to change sprocket, which is not hard or expensive so that is fine. The husqvarna pixel bar also came up https://www.husqvarna.com/us/chainsaw-parts-and-accessories/x-force-325-1-3mm-pixel-sm/ but it uses 80DL chain instead of the 78 of the oregon.

Then today I learned about 3/8 LP "low profile" options from this forum https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/do-i-go-with-325-narrow-kerf-or-3-8lp.355427/ and https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/20-3-8-lp-bar.310487/
Searching for these things on the internet is quite tedious and overwhelming for a smoothbrain like myself with all of the different naming schemes. As I understand it, I could use 3/8 LP with my saws without changing the sprocket but would need a new bar? Ok that is fine but ultimately I care about reliability first then price and having to install a new sprocket is no big deal.

So I am looking for a 18-20" solution. Is one of these options definitively better than the other with my saws? or is it not worth changing from my current 3/8 pitch chains at all? I don't expect to have my hand held so if these are dumb questions then please let me know
 

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My initial research pointed me toward .325 narrow kerf options like this oregon 20" bar https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/speedcutâ„¢-guide-bar,-20"/p/200txlbk095 or the 18" version https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078YM4HTH. Both say they will work for my saws but they are .325 pitch and my saw is 3/8 pitch so I would almost certainly have to change sprocket, which is not hard or expensive so that is fine. The husqvarna pixel bar also came up https://www.husqvarna.com/us/chainsaw-parts-and-accessories/x-force-325-1-3mm-pixel-sm/ but it uses 80DL chain instead of the 78 of the oregon.
I believe in the USA the 555 comes with the standard spline that only has 9 tooth drive sprocket option in .325. If you set it up like the European 560 with a small spline drum which I think is the same as on the 550. I also think the oil drive parts will match up. I was going to do this myself but ended up getting a Dolmar 6100 instead. I would think you would want a pretty long solid wide bar not one designed for NK chain.
 
Just my opinion but neither the 26 nor the 460 rancher is suitable for a lot of milling. Why did the 460 fail?
I'd be looking for at least a 72cc or larger, 95cc preferably.
even with most of my trees being under 20" thick? also, on the 460 rancher the plastic gear that engages the oiler wore out in 4 months from being brand new. the 460 rancher has been in the shop for 4 weeks now because the part is backordered. I cant really afford a huge saw unless I get one of the china clones and being in pretty rural montana my local choices are limited and MSRP.
 
I believe in the USA the 555 comes with the standard spline that only has 9 tooth drive sprocket option in .325. If you set it up like the European 560 with a small spline drum which I think is the same as on the 550. I also think the oil drive parts will match up. I was going to do this myself but ended up getting a Dolmar 6100 instead. I would think you would want a pretty long solid wide bar not one designed for NK chain.
would this not work https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/rim-sprocket,-325"/p/11892 for using normal .325 narrow kerf chains? says 7t .325 sprocket
 
even with most of my trees being under 20" thick? also, on the 460 rancher the plastic gear that engages the oiler wore out in 4 months from being brand new. the 460 rancher has been in the shop for 4 weeks now because the part is backordered. I cant really afford a huge saw unless I get one of the china clones and being in pretty rural montana my local choices are limited and MSRP.

Hi,

I am one of the people who can't picture milling with a 60cc saw. I don't think you will find a lot of people on this site who have actual experience doing that. But, your report of the vid showing the 261 milling...

I only have three suggestions.

1. Drive sprockets for normal 3/8 chain are best not used with 3/8LP chain. Better to have the LP sprocket.

2. After you decide what you want to try (325 or 3/8LP) I would trust the tech support people at Oregon. They are very helpful.

3. Once you decide, and get a different bar, please report back with your milling results.

Good luck

Roy
 
GB Forestry Australia make 3/8 LP milling bars from 20" up to 48"
I have been using a 36" with a Redmax GZ7000 ( 69cc ) on seasoned red box which is very hard timber, you need to use a 3/8LP drive sprocket though.
 
I would do some investigation into what chain you can get your hands on at a reasonable price before committing to a setup. If you go with .325 I would recommend grinding it to a granberg style chain to give you the best of both smooth cutting & a lightened load on your powerhead.
If your sticking with the small mill supported only at one end of the bar you may find you get a significant amount more wobble with a narrow kerf bar. Probably won't be as easy to find narrow kerf in bars over 20" either. If it's only for milling you may get away with NK chain on a regular bar as the wood fibres act differently when cut with the grain so will close on the bar less.
If you have a lot of milling to do my suggestion is to look for a better all round setup from the start. +70cc power head, full mill frame etc. You will invariably want a second saw for trimming etc anyway
 
The .325 oregon speed cut will help.
I put 3/8lp on saws that take the exact same bar/chain as your husky's.
Get the regular 3/8 rim sprocket(people will claim it doesnt work but it does, it's like running a slightly worn sprocket)
The bar for small stihl like a 025 or 023 or 200t fits once you drill the oil hole out a hair bigger, they're easy to find.
You will need 2 more drive links than the bar calls for as the rim sprocket is a little further away from the bar on a husky than the stihl.
I run short 3/8lp bars, 14 inch with 52 drive links, the bar calls for 50 drive links.

If I was milling with a saw, I'd buy a knock off 395 or 660 tho.
 
would this not work https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/rim-sprocket,-325"/p/11892 for using normal .325 narrow kerf chains? says 7t .325 sprocket
I copied and paste from your link

Spline SizeSM7

That sprocket will work with the Husqvarna sp33g, the Oregon 95txl and the Stihl 23RSpro code 3690 chain. and earlier virtually similar product. It will not work (certainly is not for and not sensible on a 60cc machine) with the mini .325 that some small battery saws are coming with. Note small spline, see post 2. I think some folks stick various size coins in the hole in the middle of the sprocket to be sure which one it is.


Edit: I see that higher up from where I copied it claims standard sized spline. Standard size spline choices in .325 are limited to 9 tooth. Oregon has been sold twice in the last few years I don't think the folks that do customer service have a way to edit wep page errors. Kind of a shame to have to go to ebay for a more reliable description.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/322840491386?
 
Then today I learned about 3/8 LP "low profile" options from this forum https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/do-i-go-with-325-narrow-kerf-or-3-8lp.355427/ and https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/20-3-8-lp-bar.310487/
Searching for these things on the internet is quite tedious and overwhelming for a smoothbrain like myself with all of the different naming schemes. As I understand it, I could use 3/8 LP with my saws without changing the sprocket but would need a new bar? Ok that is fine but ultimately I care about reliability first then price and having to install a new sprocket is no big deal.
You need an 3/8 LP sprocket too. Regular 3/8 uses a different sprocket.
There are large and small spline clutch drums. Your sprocket has to match the drum size. It's easy to find 3/8 LP sprockets for the small spline drums, not so easy to find them for the large spline ones.
Your clutch drum has to match the saw. They're not interchangeable. Smaller saws use the small spline and larger use the large spline. Check for your specific saw.
And you will obviously need 3/8 LP chain and a 3/8 LP bar.
If you're running a small homeowner sized saw with a short bar it's easy to find 3/8 LP stuff in the US. You can also get any length 3/8 LP chain here.
If you're looking for longer bars to run on the larger saws, as well as sprockets, you probably are going to have to look overseas.
Most longer 3/8 LP bars use the Stihl mount, which is larger than the Husky. You'll need an adapter to run them.
I was pointed towards chainsawbars uk as a good source for 3/8 LP (Thanks George Hurchalla). Prices were good, shipping was quick. Have to spend over $120? US though.
The Oregon 3/8 LP ripping chain has much smaller teeth than the Stihl FYI. Or the Woodland Pro IIRC.

I ordered a 36" 3/8 LP bar, sprocket, adapter,and a loop of Stihl, loop of Oregon, and a loop of WP (WP came from Baileys) with the intention of comparing them on my 394 and maybe 575.
I haven't had a chance to try them yet though.
 
I bookmarked this site years ago: https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/

From my recollection, they specialize in 3/8 LP milling, and perusing their site, they have a selector where you put in your chainsaw and desired setup, and it gives you some options. Only thing is they are located in the UK, so shipping will be high. I would recommend sending them a message to see how helpful they are and whether you would trust them before actually making a purchase though.

I personally mill with standard 3/8 ripping chain, but with a Stihl 661, so it can handle it. I was looking at a 3/8 LP setup a while ago when I was thinking about speeding things up, but I've already invested so much in my current setup it didn't make sense to actually try the 3/8 LP for me.

You can also buy the 3/8 LP chain from bailey's and other sites too once you have the bar and appropriate rim. You can also just buy standard 3/8 LP chain, and then gradually sharpen the top plate to 10 degrees. I personally prefer to keep multiple loops on hand and swap them out rather than try to sharpen when I'm in the middle of milling. If you have as much milling as you say you do, it could even make sense to buy a breaker and spinner and a full roll of your choice of chain.
 
I bookmarked this site years ago: https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/

From my recollection, they specialize in 3/8 LP milling, and perusing their site, they have a selector where you put in your chainsaw and desired setup, and it gives you some options. Only thing is they are located in the UK, so shipping will be high. I would recommend sending them a message to see how helpful they are and whether you would trust them before actually making a purchase though.
Shipping is free. And is pretty quick. I think it took just over a week to get to me? Have a minimum order though. Roughly $120. Prices are on par with what you'd pay in the US.


SNHSA36-50WR 36"[91cm] GB Lo Pro Milling Bar[Single Slot] 3/8 Lo Pro .050 114 drive links​
1​
$156.81​
GB9-12 Chainsaw Bar Adapter Turns D009 9mm Husky Studs to 12mm D025 Medium Stihl Mount​
1​
$17.34​
GBR7L7 GB Lo Pro Drive Rim St Internal Driving 3/8 Lo Pro Chain​
1​
$17.42​
3614-63PMX Stihl PMX Ripping Chain 3/8 Lo Pro .050[1.3mm]​
114​
$75.24​
91R Oregon Ripping Chain 3/8 Lo Pro .050[1.3mm]​
114​
$55.86​
Subtotal:​
$322.67​
Shipping:​
Free shipping​
Payment method:​
Pay by Credit or Debit Card​
Total:​
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����
 
GB9-12 Chainsaw Bar Adapter Turns D009 9mm Husky Studs to 12mm D025 Medium Stihl Mount
The Husqvarna 460 and 555 models are the small Husky mount with 8mm studs. k095 The oil input hole for the large husky mount when put on a small mount saw is kind of half on the pad the bar rests against. It takes a bit of creativity to make that work with much smaller spacer than what you have described here.
 
The Husqvarna 460 and 555 models are the small Husky mount with 8mm studs. k095 The oil input hole for the large husky mount when put on a small mount saw is kind of half on the pad the bar rests against. It takes a bit of creativity to make that work with much smaller spacer than what you have described here.
That is a spacer I ordered from chainsawbars uk to adapt a Stihl mount to my large mount Huskys.
Has nothing to do with adapting large mount Husky to small mount.
 
That is a spacer I ordered from chainsawbars uk to adapt a Stihl mount to my large mount Huskys.
Has nothing to do with adapting large mount Husky to small mount.
I think the point Franny K is making is that adapter won't work for the OP as the adapter he needs would be to convert the stihl mount to the smaller husky k095
 
You need an 3/8 LP sprocket too. Regular 3/8 uses a different sprocket.
There are large and small spline clutch drums. Your sprocket has to match the drum size. It's easy to find 3/8 LP sprockets for the small spline drums, not so easy to find them for the large spline ones.
Your clutch drum has to match the saw. They're not interchangeable. Smaller saws use the small spline and larger use the large spline. Check for your specific saw.
And you will obviously need 3/8 LP chain and a 3/8 LP bar.
If you're running a small homeowner sized saw with a short bar it's easy to find 3/8 LP stuff in the US. You can also get any length 3/8 LP chain here.
If you're looking for longer bars to run on the larger saws, as well as sprockets, you probably are going to have to look overseas.
Most longer 3/8 LP bars use the Stihl mount, which is larger than the Husky. You'll need an adapter to run them.
I was pointed towards chainsawbars uk as a good source for 3/8 LP (Thanks George Hurchalla). Prices were good, shipping was quick. Have to spend over $120? US though.
The Oregon 3/8 LP ripping chain has much smaller teeth than the Stihl FYI. Or the Woodland Pro IIRC.

I ordered a 36" 3/8 LP bar, sprocket, adapter,and a loop of Stihl, loop of Oregon, and a loop of WP (WP came from Baileys) with the intention of comparing them on my 394 and maybe 575.
I haven't had a chance to try them yet though.
thank you for explaining this to me!
 
Hi,

I am one of the people who can't picture milling with a 60cc saw. I don't think you will find a lot of people on this site who have actual experience doing that. But, your report of the vid showing the 261 milling...

I only have three suggestions.

1. Drive sprockets for normal 3/8 chain are best not used with 3/8LP chain. Better to have the LP sprocket.

2. After you decide what you want to try (325 or 3/8LP) I would trust the tech support people at Oregon. They are very helpful.

3. Once you decide, and get a different bar, please report back with your milling results.

Good luck

Roy
i have emailed the tech support @ oregontool probably 5 times since october of last year and have not received a single reply, both using the form on the webpage and by emailing [email protected] . It looks like .325 has more immediately available options but im still open to either. I will post the results! I have been milling with my 460rancher for 4 months straight and it works fine with 3/8 its just slower than I want to deal with over the course of the 300+ logs i have to mill. Where I live, there is maybe 10 trees on my property with a diameter of 3 feet or bigger, most are in the 12-20 inch range, so I have no real justification for a more powerful saw other than milling
 
The .325 oregon speed cut will help.
If I was milling with a saw, I'd buy a knock off 395 or 660 tho.
i was looking @ the knockoff 660s like this farrrrrmmac / neotec one https://www.amazon.com/FARMMAC-Chainsaw-High-End-Version-cylinder/dp/B0BR7WSYMY which comes to under 400 after the 80 dollar off coupon. My understanding with these is that you have to assemble them entirely yourself. I haven't done anything like that before and while I am sure that i could figure it out, I am also sure that i could screw it up royally. I dont know much about these china saws but I dont really trust the reviews on amazon. If they were as good of an option as the reviews would lead u to believe, wouldnt everyone be running them?
 

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