20" bar on a Husqvarna 545 or Jonsered 2252?

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Poking around here and the mfg web sites I decided that the weight, power and reputation of a Jonsered 2252 was what I wanted. Because of what I typically cut, I thought a 20" bar is what I should get with it. My local dealer, however, said they would never put a 20" bar on that saw. Another local Husky dealer has no issue putting a 20" bar on the 545, same saw. They have a few on order.

I'm wondering if the first dealer is onto something. Is the saw going to have an issue pulling that much chain? What I used it for is a mix of limbing, felling dead trees, and cutting the remnants to moveable sizes.

Thanks

P.S. Thanks for all your previous posts in helping me choose
 
A buddy bought a 545 with a 16" bar a year or two back. I ran it and found it to be a great saw, though I thought 16" was definitely all it wanted. Gave him a 13", he likes it much better that way and the powerhead seems to agree, too, particularly as to handling. I wouldn't want to hang 20" of bar off of a 545, even though you technically can do so. Heck, I wouldn't hang a 20" bar off of anything shy of a solid 70cc machine.

EDIT: I guess I should clarify. I am assuming you intend to use all the bar length, not just having a 20" bar for reaching small stuff without bending. I am also assuming that some amount of your cutting work involves plunge cutting. If my assumptions are off, my recommendation might merit revision.

I think that using the notion of 3:1 cc to bar length (inches) as rule of thumb work well in the sort of wood we have here in Michigan.
 
A buddy bought a 545 with a 16" bar a year or two back. I ran it and found it to be a great saw, though I thought 16" was definitely all it wanted. Gave him a 13", he likes it much better that way and the powerhead seems to agree, too, particularly as to handling. I wouldn't want to hang 20" of bar off of a 545, even though you technically can do so. Heck, I wouldn't hang a 20" bar off of anything shy of a solid 70cc machine.

EDIT: I guess I should clarify. I am assuming you intend to use all the bar length, not just having a 20" bar for reaching small stuff without bending. I am also assuming that some amount of your cutting work involves plunge cutting. If my assumptions are off, my recommendation might merit revision.

I think that using the notion of 3:1 cc to bar length (inches) as rule of thumb work well in the sort of wood we have here in Michigan.
Folks run 20 inch bars on 50 cc saws all the time where i live. I cut pine with my 550xp running 20 inch bar and .325 chain.
 
I normally run an 18 but have used a 20 on my 2252. I was cutting 14-18" oak at the time. I would definitely use a laminate bar in that length for balance.
That's exactly the situation I was curious about. Those extra two inches to allow me to get through 17-18" trunks from just one side is why I wanted 20". Just need to know from real users that that 10.5 lb saw can do it.
 
Heck, I run a 20" bar on a my 46cc Poulan with Oregon 20BPX. A 50cc strato, AutoTune pro saw should not have any problems with it.

 
I would say if you feel you need a bigger bar you probably want a larger saw for those jobs. However learning how to use a 16" bar to its full potential can take down some fair size trees.
 
Guess it depends on how much of a hurry you are in.
Not really in much of a hurry usually. I like to let the saw do the work. I've been using a garbage-picked 38cc Craftsman 16" for three years to do the same work. I kinda have to be patient.
 
Not really in much of a hurry usually. I like to let the saw do the work. I've been using a garbage-picked 38cc Craftsman 16" for three years to do the same work. I kinda have to be patient.
I would think a 16 on the 2252 would serve a lot of guys very well and put tons of wood in the old wood shed.
 

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