$20 Husky 55 Restoration

[DPDISXR4Ti]

I was sorta half looking for a second Husky, if only to have as a "hot standby" when I frag a chain and need to finish a job. A "parts only" 55 showed up on Craigslist, and it was mine shortly thereafter for $20.

Compression is 30 psi, so clearly it needs a rebuild. I see 45 and 46mm kits available - I presume I go with a 46, yes? At $33 this kit looks like a good value as it includes many of the gaskets and seals....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/46MM-Cylin...737902&hash=item43d66e1ad6:g:nVsAAMXQH6BRETIv

Other needed things are a muffler and drive sprocket. I'm a little confused looking at the clutch drum/drive sprockets for sale as there appear to be two different sprocket configurations. One is star-shaped and the other just has 7 square teeth sticking up. But both listed as being for the 55. Help?

As for the muffler, suggestions?

Anything else I should be replacing?

 

[decableguy2000]

OEM top end kits are around a $100. Sprocket setups are spur the star looking one and rim so you can change just the sprocket. You just need a new rim sprocket and need to match it up with your chain pitch. You need to find out why it has low compression before you throw parts at it and burn up a new top end.

 

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Sprocket setups are spur the star looking one and rim so you can change just the sprocket.

Huh? Not sure I follow.

As to the cause, I'm guessing it's had a lot of hard use and/or straight gasoline used and/or bad mixture. The piston is a little scored up. I can see that several of parts were replaced, so I suspect it's had a lot of hours on it overall.

 

[decableguy2000]

Spur sprocket is a one piece sprocket and clutch drum,have to change the whole thing out if you change chain pitch or is worn out. Yours is a rim sprocket, just need to change the sprocket out when worn or changing chain pitch.

 

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Spur sprocket is a one piece sprocket and clutch drum,have to change the whole thing out if you change chain pitch or is worn out. Yours is a rim sprocket, just need to change the sprocket out when worn or changing chain pitch.

Okay, got it. One of these...
https://www.amazon.com/Oregon-18720-7-Tooth-Small-Spline/dp/B000IBWVWG

 

[chipper1]

Huh? Not sure I follow.

As to the cause, I'm guessing it's had a lot of hard use and/or straight gasoline used and/or bad mixture. The piston is a little scored up. I can see that several of parts were replaced, so I suspect it's had a lot of hours on it overall.

2-stroke engines are unlike 4-strokes. I don't think the saw is scored because it's worn out as it doesn't look to me like it has that many hrs on it. If you put a piston and cylinder on this saw and it has an air leak it will be scored again on the first tank if it's a bad leak.
When the cable guy was saying you need to find out why it has low compression he was talking about the cause of the piston being scored not the effects which is that the piston is scored.
If you post some pics of the piston the guys can help diagnosis the cause.
The most common air leak on these saws is the intake leaks. There are threads in how to repair the intake so it will not leak again.
Hope this helps,
Brett

 

[muddstopper]

+1 on the intake. Everybody seems to think those carb screws need a 100ftlb of torque and they strip the screws. The saw then sucks air around the carb gasket and burns up the piston and the ring sticks. Your saw looks to be a 2000 model and I think that is the last year the 45mm closed port saw was made, but your saw could still be a open port 46mm model. I have soaked a many a 55 cyl with muratic acid and they clean up to almost new. A new piston and ring, fix the plastic intake manifold and the saws run like new. 55's with the 45mm piston are most likely closed port 51cc saws. Lil red barn has a 45mm closed port piston, and is the only place I have been able to find one. The 46mm is a open port and is 53cc. Everybody sells the AM 46mm open port piston and complete top ends. There is a aftermarket 46mm closed port top end available, I tried one, didnt like it, and sent it back. Had .080 squish without a base gasket. Finding a new OEM top end for these saws is next to impossible. Spike60 might have a a few NOS, I bought the last three my saw shop could order a couple years ago. $130 each. Got one on the shelf and 5 saws needing topends.

 

[chipper1]

+1 on the intake. Everybody seems to think those carb screws need a 100ftlb of torque and they strip the screws. The saw then sucks air around the carb gasket and burns up the piston and the ring sticks. Your saw looks to be a 2000 model and I think that is the last year the 45mm closed port saw was made, but your saw could still be a open port 46mm model. I have soaked a many a 55 cyl with muratic acid and they clean up to almost new. A new piston and ring, fix the plastic intake manifold and the saws run like new. 55's with the 45mm piston are most likely closed port 51cc saws. Lil red barn has a 45mm closed port piston, and is the only place I have been able to find one. The 46mm is a open port and is 53cc. Everybody sells the AM 46mm open port piston and complete top ends. There is a aftermarket 46mm closed port top end available, I tried one, didnt like it, and sent it back. Had .080 squish without a base gasket. Finding a new OEM top end for these saws is next to impossible. Spike60 might have a a few NOS, I bought the last three my saw shop could order a couple years ago. $130 each. Got one on the shelf and 5 saws needing topends.

Pretty sure it's an open port.
I know where a closed port saw is that's in great condition as well as a P&C, it was still available not long ago.

 

[DPDISXR4Ti]

If you post some pics of the piston the guys can help diagnosis the cause.

Will a shot in from the exhaust port suffice, or should I disassemble and get a good pic of the piston once the cylinder is removed?

 

[chipper1]

Will a shot in from the exhaust port suffice, or should I disassemble and get a good pic of the piston once the cylinder is removed?

I would get some when you pull the cylinder.
But if there is someone in the area who could pressure/vac test it prior to you disassembling it you will be able to find the cause before ordering any parts.
Once the saw is apart you cannot pressure/vac test until it's back together, then you will have to order whatever parts are needed.
Either way unless you know it's been straight gassed you must find the cause of it scoring in the first place or the new piston will end up looking the same as the first(I'll keep repeating this ).
If you have a minute a picture of the piston through the exhaust port may give an idea of what to look for.

 

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Well, I punted. I saw what "parts" chainsaws were going for on eBay, listed this one yesterday afternoon, and two hours later it was sold for $75. Then I promptly purchased a lightly used Husky 359 on eBay for $248 shipped. I'm happy with how this all played out. Although it would have been interesting to rebuild the 55, it's Spring and I've got lots of other projects to do. Here's a couple shots of the 55's piston any way, in case there's some education to be passed along...