2000 Husky Rancher 55 - Won't start

[Steelart99]

My 2000 Husky Rancher 55 won't start (ha! Bet you've never heard anyone else have this issue)

It would start and run, then it started dying while cutting, then I couldn't even get it started. From my quick disassembly and evaluation, it appears that I'm not even getting a spark from the plug. I sprayed engine quick-start fluid into the carb (choke off and throttle pulled to open up butterfly valve) and still, the engine did not even sputter ... nothing. The original issue of dying seems like it might be a plugged fuel line from what I've read elsewhere in this forum, but the fact that I can't even get the engine to kick over now indicates an ignition module problem ???

Any help in troubleshooting this issue would be appreciated.

 

[Suzuki]

how is the compression?

How is the gap between the flywheel and ignition coil?

Fresh clean gas?

 

[Deleted member 117362]

Tank vent and muffler clean? Tried a different plug? Unplug coil or disconnect switch and check for spark? Fuel filter clean? Try simple things first.

 

[r black]

I have one doing the same thing ,,read something about the intake/manifolds go bad ..have not tore into mine yet to lazy...


HUSQVARNA 36, 37, 41, 50, 51, 55, 136, 137, 141, 142 INTAKE MANIFOLD 503 16 16-02. $4.99 h&l supply...

 

[Steelart99]

how is the compression?

How is the gap between the flywheel and ignition coil?

Fresh clean gas?

Compression had been fine ... until it wasn't. I'll have to borrow a compression tester to get a valid reading.

The gap ... hmmm ... would that be 'locked in' by the screws holding the ignition module in place? I'll look tomorrow

Yes, clean gas

Thanks

 

[Steelart99]

Tank vent and muffler clean? Tried a different plug? Unplug coil or disconnect switch and check for spark? Fuel filter clean? Try simple things first.

The tank vent was something I'd just read about on this forum. I'll check tomorrow. As far as I can tell, the muffler appears clean. New plug on order. I checked for spark and saw none, which is why I started to suspect the ignition module. Fuel filter to be checked and cleaned in the next couple of days. thanks

 

[Steelart99]

I have one doing the same thing ,,read something about the intake/manifolds go bad ..have not tore into mine yet to lazy...


HUSQVARNA 36, 37, 41, 50, 51, 55, 136, 137, 141, 142 INTAKE MANIFOLD 503 16 16-02. $4.99 h&l supply...

I had not heard about that! More to research. Thanks

 

[dougand3]

the fact that I can't even get the engine to kick over now indicates an ignition module problem ???

Possibly but low compression is possible. While waiting on comp gauge, you can ballpark check it. Hold saw at chest height, hold pull handle, let saw drop - Lub..........Lub...........Lub is good. Lub..Lub..Lub is bad. Also, a good compression "test" is pulling muffler and looking at piston and ring. And you can see some of exhaust cyl wall looking thru plug hole with a flashlight.

 

[Steelart99]

Possibly but low compression is possible. While waiting on comp gauge, you can ballpark check it. Hold saw at chest height, hold pull handle, let saw drop - Lub..........Lub...........Lub is good. Lub..Lub..Lub is bad. Also, a good compression "test" is pulling muffler and looking at piston and ring. And you can see some of exhaust cyl wall looking thru plug hole with a flashlight.

So, I finally got around to checking the pressure which is about 50 psi (far short of the 110+ psi it should be). I pulled the exhaust and the piston & ring look pretty scored up. From what I can see through the spark plug hole, the cylinder does not seem to be too bad. So, should I just order a new ring or ring and piston? I'll need to get a carburetor gasket kit and brake band (gouged edge on the existing one) while I'm at it.

Anything else that I should probably replace while I have this thing dismantled?

Thanks!

 

[rmh3481]

Pressure test it before you take it apart.

 

[Steelart99]

Pressure test it before you take it apart.

How do you pressure test it? I guess I mean do you have any special fixtures you have to build / buy? Or can I just make a block off plate for the exhaust and some sort of schrader valve adapter for the carburetor interface? Is about 5 psi adequate?
Thanks ... I've obviously never done this.

 

[rupedoggy]

pulled the exhaust and the piston & ring look pretty scored up.

Just for reference what does a really bad scored one look like????????

 

[Steelart99]

Just for reference what does a really bad scored one look like????????

Well, I guess that is just my take based on the visual aspect. I attached a picture above which shows the piston & ring thru the exhaust port. It certainly does not look like the surface of a new piston. This is not a repair I've ever had to do on any engine, so ... 'tis just my opinion.

 

[dougand3]

Yeah, that's a really ugly Piston & Ring. And the Cyl will look ugly underneath - lots of AL transfer and probably deep gouges. A new P,R and C will be in order. And as rmh indicated, you need to diagnose why it happened. Was it straight gassed? That would be really good. Did it run really lean from air leak? That takes diagnosis. The bulkhead carb screw threads get stripped and leak there. The boot, impulse grommet/pipe, Cyl to mag case gasket, Crank seals can leak. Search here on vac/pressure testing a saw. Search Husqvarna 55 intake repair.

 

[Steelart99]

Yeah, that's a really ugly Piston & Ring. And the Cyl will look ugly underneath - lots of AL transfer and probably deep gouges. A new P,R and C will be in order. And as rmh indicated, you need to diagnose why it happened. Was it straight gassed? That would be really good. Did it run really lean from air leak? That takes diagnosis. The bulkhead carb screw threads get stripped and leak there. The boot, impulse grommet/pipe, Cyl to mag case gasket, Crank seals can leak. Search here on vac/pressure testing a saw. Search Husqvarna 55 intake repair.

Thanks! I'll chase down all those possibilities. I did just order a new piston, cylinder, ring, gaskets and carburetor/gaskets (although I might not need to replace that). Gas was properly mixed. The air leak is where I need to do a bit of research to diagnose although I'd think I shouldn't do that until I have the cylinder/piston/ring replaced.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Replace the intake sleeve and impulse grommet. Probably the source of your air leak if there is one, though it could also be crank seals. And ensure the threads in the intake bulkhead aren't stripped. And if they're not, don't strip them trying to get the assembly tighter than it needs to be when re-assembling or by cross threading the screws putting things back together.

All that aside, looks like it was straight gassed to me.

 

[dynodave]

I rebuilt my friends 55.
base gasket got sucked in and it leaned it out.
pix of gasket and piston:

 

[Steelart99]

Okay, OP back here. Well, embarrassingly enough, it does appear that I straight gassed this chainsaw (2 tanks) ... along with a pole chainsaw and my weed wacker ... sigh. As I was draining the gas I realized that it did not have the color associated with the oil addition; not sure how I did that. Suggestion; don't get 'older'. I ended up doing a piston, ring, cylinder, carb, intake sleeve and impulse grommet replacement. Tuning took a bit of time and it still does not seem to have quite as much power as before, i.e., the engine slows down as I'm cutting with moderate downward pressure. Compression is at about 90 psi which I think is a bit low. I did a pressure check and found no leaks but did not do a vacuum test. All that said, it was running well enough for me to get on with the project I had - clearing broken branches and trees downed by a freak and HEAVY snow storm on about 8 acres.

Anyone have any thoughts on the reduced compression? Did I miss something other than a really good pressure / vacuum test?

 

[dougand3]

It can take 5-10 tanks of fuel for ring to seat. Compression goes up then - but more like 10-20 PSI. 90 PSI is low after a new topend. You SURE you have a good reading? Schrader valve in plug coupler? Or you have an AWFULLY BIG squish. Run a few more tanks thru saw - a little heavier on the oil - say 32-35:1

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

That saw should have 150psi + after a new top end rebuild. Does the cylinder have a compression release? If so, it'll reduce compression to about 90psi when depressed. If it indeed has a decomp button, make sure it's pulled out when you do the test and also make sure it pops out when you start the saw.