2001 Husqvarna 55: Stay w/ .325 or Convert to 3/8 Chain?

[pgtr]

I've got a 55 purchased circa 2001. AFAIK it is identical to the 55 Rancher model save a different sprocket/bar/chain. (I could be wrong about that - that's my understanding) The 55 came w/ a .325 050 and the Rancher came with a 3/8 050 chain - both with 18" bars. Both are 53 cc with 3.4 hp @ 9000 and peak 12,500 rpm. From what I can gather the saw is right on the border between being suited for either type of chain. Here's more info on the issue's I'm encountering...

Over the last decade plus Ive dealt with downed hardwood trees, large limbs, trimming and what not. I'm exclusively dealing with Oak and Hickory in unavoidable sandy conditions. As is - my 55 works OK with limbing, trimming and what not up to maybe 8" thick. Somewhere around 14" it starts to really struggle. Anything over 18-20" usually is hollow so that actually helps on the really big stuff. I often run into problems with it not cutting straight in thicker hardwood cuts, bar then binds, or simply not cutting well - generally a lot of work to get through. I keep the chain sharp and occasionally I check the bar for flatness - replace as necessary.

So assuming the sprocket can be replaced - I can consider the Rancher setup with 3/8 chain. I can also consider a thicker gauge 058 in either the original .325 or if changing to a 3/8. And I can even consider fancier solid bars.

Thanks

 

[jeepman]

husky 455 with 3/8 chain

20 in bar with 3/8 chain has good power on larger wood but always dressing bar always cuts crooked after couple dozen cuts. adjusted oiller for more than i have oil spraying out so havr to back down. bought stihl ms310 no problems. just got ms362 for larger cuts hope to have good luck with thi saw.

 

[Frogfarmer]

I have 3 of the older 55 Huskys and have been through the same thing. I sharpen (grind) my own chains and like them fairly aggressive so it takes a strong saw to pull them but they cut well. Just like yours all of mine are fitted with the 18" in .325 but my bars are all .058. As an experiment I bought a used solid sprocket nose Oregon bar in 3/8 and 16". I also bought 2 new Stihl Semi Chisel chains to go with it. I swapped the bar to the strongest of the saws and gave it a try. The saw will pull a 16" 3/8 with standand height rakers but it takes all it has and in my opinion is not a good combination. The 55 will pull the .325 very well with the 18" bar but I have had a hard time finding chains that hold up well to my use from any local retailers. Yes I can order chains and yes they are available but I consider it a PITA to mail order chains. I disliked the 3/8 setup enough that I cut the mount wider and run it on my 034. My advice is save the 3/8 for the 60cc class saws.

 

[mt.stalker]

The 55 will pull 3/8 , but .325 is better suited IMO . It's a tad easier for the motor to pull it . I would never run more than a 16" bar on these saws , as any longer bar will slow it too much for my need.................. for rpm's .............. :hmm3grin2orange:

Dress the bar rails , and sharpen that chain properly , she'll cut straight if everythings correct .

 

[SawTroll]

A lot more of those saws are converted the other way - and for good reasons! :msp_wink:

 

[mountainlake]

My advice is save the 3/8 for the 60cc class saws.[/QUOTE]

Real good advice. Steve

 

[z71mike]

A crooked cut may not mean a bent bar. Could be a chain sharpening issue.

 

[outdoortype]

stick with .325

I ran both setups in 16" on 55 and the 3/8" was faster in small wood but .325" was faster in anything over 10". You have to remember, both setups use 7 tooth sprockets. However, the .325" is a smaller diameter sprocket that gives more torque.

 

[zogger]

If you are cutting dirty sand blown embedded in the bark hickory, I don't care what bar/chain you use, you can just about countdown from sharp to dull, 10-9-8...... then it will cut screwy.

the only solution I have found is I take my time on those and axe off as much of the dinosaur scale outer bar as possible, then brush it off at the cut areas.

that works, unless you enjoying filing and buying new chains. I've tried a variety of saws/makes/models sizes and both oregon and stihl chain...hickory (shagbark here) with mass quantities of dirt under the bark wins.

Now that I have been doing that, stripping them a little first with the axe, the time spent to partially debark and clean them with a little broom action is much easier and faster and cheaper and less annoying than putting up with "instadull" chains.

Note: There's a difference between "in the forest" cleaner hickory and edge of fields windblown dirty stuff. Those old ones near the fields are like cutting dirty stumps off, every cut up the big trunk part.