25' beams

[Beefie]

Looking at building a cabin at my hunting land. 24'X30' It is going to be a stick built structure with a nice solped roof and a loft on one end and open the other side. I would like to have 2 24' stringers go across to give it character and support in the open area. i have access to white pine logs but do not no of any one that has a mill long enogh to cut it, plus being so big trying to handle it in log form would take some equipment. Is a alaskan setup what i would need to do ? Where do I start ?

Thanks
Beefie

 

[olyman]

Looking at building a cabin at my hunting land. 24'X30' It is going to be a stick built structure with a nice solped roof and a loft on one end and open the other side. I would like to have 2 24' stringers go across to give it character and support in the open area. i have access to white pine logs but do not no of any one that has a mill long enogh to cut it, plus being so big trying to handle it in log form would take some equipment. Is a alaskan setup what i would need to do ? Where do I start ?

Thanks
Beefie

when I had a oak log,,that I wanted to do this with, the local lumber yard said forget it. he said the span was tooo much, and the beams would bow down...this would have been a 6x18, by 16 feet long. white oak...

 

[sachsmo]

That durn Ash borer left me with a bunch of 30'+ White Ash.

I would think a baseball bat 20+inch diameter would hold a 30 foot span?

 

[discounthunter]

lams will be your only bet for a 24' span. a log will have to be supported.

 

[Beefie]

I hear what you guys are saying. And I guess I didn't describe it correctly. If you can picture a old barns hay mowe. The main beam has some stringers that go off at right angles to help support the roof. My plan is to bolt or notch some stringers or braces into it . more for decoration than any thing else. I will see if I can find some pictures on the web to help me show what I am trying to get at.

 

[sachsmo]

lams will be your only bet for a 24' span. a log will have to be supported.

Steel?

I seen some of the stress tests done using pine vs. engineered.

Surely a 16x16 would span 24" (and then some?)

I have a bunch of 16"+ diameter White Ash I was going to use to frame a heated work area in my barn.

I'm not an engineer, but I bet I could put up a couple "A" frames 25 foot apart, mount a 20" diameter White Ash as the main beam and hoist a decent size Caterpillar?

 

[les-or-more]

I hear what you guys are saying. And I guess I didn't describe it correctly. If you can picture a old barns hay mowe. The main beam has some stringers that go off at right angles to help support the roof. My plan is to bolt or notch some stringers or braces into it . more for decoration than any thing else. I will see if I can find some pictures on the web to help me show what I am trying to get at.

Most of the old barns around here are 40' with a post in the center, so 20' spans, with a 8" or 10" ash or oak beams, they are all rough hewn so actual dimensions are up to some interpretation. They manage to stand for over a hundred years holding loads, sitting on field stones, without falling down.

 

[Beefie]

I really don't believe that 24' is going to be a issue and if it is I can make a beam buy laminating plywood together and then covering it with pine. There is more than one way to shave a beaver.

 

[sachsmo]

But how do you get the hair out of your teeth?

 

[Beefie]

That's why there shaved no hair, boy I miss the old icons where is my big smiley face.

Beefie

 

[psgflier]

I'm not home right now, so I can not give references, but the engineering tables I have showed 2x12 spruce suitable for floor joist up to 22 feet on 16in. centers. I put 6x12x 24' on 4' centers for the second floor, and that was over engineered.
If you're planning two 24' timbers across the building, your dividing into 10' sections, it'll be fine . Remember, depth increases strength more than width.
An Alaska mill is ideal for cutting long timbers. The 090 will smoke in the mill, especially in pine.
Carl

 

[BobInMN]

This is using the beam calculator I found:
Eastern White Pine #2
Length 298"
Width 4"
Depth 8"
250# Center Point Load

Fiberstress in Bending - Pass
Deflection - Pass (.55")
Horizontal Shear - Pass

http://www.*****************/members/donp/beamclc_ctrpointload.htm

 

[olyman]

I really don't believe that 24' is going to be a issue and if it is I can make a beam buy laminating plywood together and then covering it with pine. There is more than one way to shave a beaver.

that's totally different than a one piece pine,oak,or whatever beam.........

 

[Steve NW WI]

Subscribing. I don't know squat about engineering with wood, but suspect I'll learn something by hanging out in this thread.

The blocked link comes courtesy of Darin's list of "competing sites". I found it with some searching, but it doesn't look like it works without a bunch of numbers I don't know anyway.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

One thing many folks fail to take into consideration is, those OLD barns were built with "old growth timber", and that's much different than todays timber!!

I built a glued up pine/ply 8"x12" wood beam that is white pine/3/4" CDX ply, glued/screwed/nailed to span 26', (actually less with angle braces)

it has a bit more deflection in it than i'd like...

SR

 

[sachsmo]

How about for a loft/mezz?

Not a living area, just storage and to enclose an area I can heat and get a vehicle in to work?

Gotta use some of my Ash Logs, I've been dropping and topping for firewood, but can't bring myself to buck up all those straight logs.

 

[BobInMN]

How about for a loft/mezz?

Not a living area, just storage and to enclose an area I can heat and get a vehicle in to work?

Gotta use some of my Ash Logs, I've been dropping and topping for firewood, but can't bring myself to buck up all those straight logs.

I could not find the design values for Ash, but I'm sure with a little more research a guy could find them. What you should do first is to come up with a drawing/plan of the type of building you want. Then you can do your statics and strength calculations to determine what size timbers and beams that you will need. I'm not an Engineer, but I do have a two year Civil Engineering Tech degree. I'm no expert, however I think I can point you in the right direction. Do you know how to use Google Sketchup? If you can draw out your plan on Sketchup there is a forum with some very knowledgeable people that would be willing to guide you. Bottom line is that they will tell you your plan should be reviewed by a PE with a working knowledge of timber framing before you start building. With timbers it's easy to get someone hurt if not planned or built correctly.

 

[sachsmo]

On the heat charts it is right under Red Oak.

They make a bunch of shovel handles, Ax, Picks etc and the famous Louisville Slugger from White Ash?

 

[sachsmo]

Beef is in East Central WI.

The chart over in the woodburnin' forum shows the EAB is there.

I have been racking my brain for near 8 years on what to do with 10+ acres of pole straight White Ash logs.

A feller that had a plan and the equipment could make some very good money salvaging all them trees.

Up in Fort Wayne the city has spent millions to remove all the dead ones. My bud at work gets them from a tree service for free, hell they even buck 'em and his crew loads them in his little dump truck!

 

[olyman]

One thing many folks fail to take into consideration is, those OLD barns were built with "old growth timber", and that's much different than todays timber!!

I built a glued up pine/ply 8"x12" wood beam that is white pine/3/4" CDX ply, glued/screwed/nailed to span 26', (actually less with angle braces)

it has a bit more deflection in it than i'd like...

SR

you just acknowledged,,what I said, thanks... I talked to the lumber man,,and he said prengineered beams wereh the way to go,,and then laminate the outside with oak,pine,whatever...