Preparing to fell dead pine tree

[AussieSawyer]

Good morning everyone,

Another beautiful day unfolding in coastal North Carolina.

I am preparing to take down the dead pine tree shown here. The lean and felling area works well. There is untended land (weeds) to bring the tree down into, no boundary fence to deal with. The tree is approximately 50 feet tall, around 24-30" around the base at knee height. This tree is significantly larger than any I have tended to in the past.

I do have a well maintained saw, full safety gear, and have learned good practices. At one point, I worked alongside logging teams in Australian forests... some of those guys, ahem, did NOT follow good operating practices, and Glenn, if you are still out there, you were a dangerous guy to be around! (he's probably long retired... or ....

Some things I am thinking about :

1. The base is likely to be significantly compromised - see photos of insect damage. I know enough to be very cautious during cutting right from the start, as things can unwind quickly.

2. I would ideally land this in an opening between boundary trees - this trajectory is perhaps 10 - 15 degrees off from where I feel the tree will want to go. And if it does damage another tree on the way down, we can live with that. My feeling about trying to modify the trajectory (apart from the position of my scarf and back cuts) is that this tree is probably too compromised for consideration of wedges.

3. The overhead collection of dead branches - apart from wearing safety gear, would a pro take additional steps while working around the base? The danger zone is primarily on the side where I will need to be put in the scarf cut. (during back cutting, I should be able to stay reasonably clear of anything that might detach).

4. Is it a good idea to build in a larger hinge area for a tree that is this dead and compromised? I will make sure my exit paths (2x) are properly prepared, as I have just completed a major vegetation clearing operation - the ground is still torn up from that.

Looking forward to seeing what the pros have to say. I also need to start thinking ahead about tools to bring in for dealing with this tree once it is down. I have my saw and wedges, but nothing for handling substantial main sections as I cut them up.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

It just looks like beetle damage, as long as it isn't too old the wood should be sound, if a little dry and brittle. As far as widowmakers go, I always send a throwball up and set a line, and then shake it really good from a distance to rattle anything out.

 

[Westboastfaller]

Looks like it's "standing dry".
Under the Danger tree assessors courses I have had in BC for many past years then that would be in the latter stages of a class 4 conifer. I would suspect the tree to start shedding the main branches soon.
Bark looks heeled over on the edges? Is the remaining bark still firm to the tree? That can tell you a lot about it's current deterioration stage.(Looks like)If so it should be sound wood at this point.

Even if the base is not as good, it will improve at a comfortable waist height for cutting. Stand upright and monitor the top as you cut. You look up as you sound tree with back of axe where there is no bark. It should sound solid (no echoes) does it have a hard shell? Don't see any signs of sap rot disease. or woodpecker holes. If it is soft then it my just be half to 1" and still have a solid heart.

In my experience with the Pine in the areas I have cut and/or assessed you generally don't see heart rot, especially in beetle kill. It is just standing dry. Class 4-5 at 8 to 10" will start to rot from the outside inwards at the base likely from being under snow for 5 - 6 month's a yr for about 4 years. Roots will have weakened.

You can also do a vertical bore (with the grain) from the centre back to the middle of tree in the direction of the fall just below cutting height. Take a knee if you do that at height suggested. Looking for consistent resistance, chip texture and colour as you bore. How deep before change?

Deep undercut will pivot the tree faster but holding wood conditions are still relivant to the forward progression. Certainly can be the difference when hand pulling trees that may have a side lean or far back lean if not large branches when you need to run them out fast.

Mechanics are yet different again with wedges If you can't get close to COG where its getting lighter then you just shortened your leverage point therefore it becomes harder to lift. If it does lift easy then it will lift the tree Faster and further per wedge thickness. If you can't now lift it? BC Fallers calls for 25% undercut for that reason on full length trees. Deep on the big short snapped off ones. COG can be easy to read on those "stubbies".

No need for deep undercut. Sounds
like you are going in the direction of the lean("between boundary trees") so as much as it will take, not exceeding 25% is book value from where I'm from.

I say it's solid where you want to cut but find out.
If it is solid with good fibres then it will be very strong vs weight.

You stay "10° to 15°" from desired target ( gap between pine boundary? ) with what looks to be a front lean?
6% to the min/sec on the clock. Right? 1 o' clock = 30°
3 o' clock = 90°.

Aim is important so if it is leaning & weighted 10° to 15° off forward lean to one side then aim close
to the trees on the other side of the opening. (high side of side lean.)When
hold wood breaks then it should end closer to the
middle. Use sight line on saw. Make cuts from high side unless there is a more dangerous reason not too.
Then consider if it is safe for YOU to do at all.

 

[derwoodii]

modify the trajectory

Giday bloke what im seeing from far far away down under here is a tricky fell with hazard seen and unseen. Id like to suggest similar to others above & get line rope up as high possible (throw line) etc and use that to shake out them loose hangers and tie off put on tension to assist in the fall direction & help if it get hooked up on way down.

Its old dead pine so wont give you much feel offers poor hinge wood,, so scaff it brave big & back cut it fast deep when it moves get away faster.

 

[AussieSawyer]

Thanks everyone. Yes, the bark is still on tight - I did try peeling.

I should have said 10 - 15 degrees. I would like to steer her a little counter-clockwise, if needed, but it's a minor correction, and only to minimize damage to other trees.

I don't think shaking out dead branches would work. We've had some pretty good winds and storms thru here recently, so I think that the 'pruning effect' is up to date. I was already thinking about making the felling cuts at a higher level, and so will go with that. (aprox waist height).

Derwoodii - !! Gidday mate. I see you're in Victoria.... struggling even to remember the year now, but perhaps 1988 - I was part of a team studying logging workflows in the Cabbage Tree Creek area outside of Orbost, working in LEMS coastal forest areas (Low Elevation Mixed Species). That seems like a few lifetimes ago. I watched some careful, methodical loggers work, and one who was extremely haphazard. One end-of-day, Glenn scarfed about 6 trees, packed up and went home. Next morning, as we're warming up to the day, he walks through and back-cuts ALL of them in a row. Sheeeyit!

Stay safe out there.

I will write up a follow up after the tree is down and sorted. Thanks again!

 

[Lightning Performance]

Shake it until everything falls off before you climb it to set the lines by hand. Get crazy with that rope.

Had to send many of these tops as whole unit sailing off with no zip lines. Picking them apart is more dangerous in my book. Gotten down off of most of them before ripping the top off. Just setting lines is shaky business.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

He's not a climber

 

[rngrchad]

Shake it until everything falls off before you climb it to set the lines by hand. Get crazy with that rope.

Had to send many of these tops as whole unit sailing off with no zip lines. Picking them apart is more dangerous in my book. Gotten down off of most of them before ripping the top off. Just setting lines is shaky business.

I’ll never understand why climbers insist trees gotta be climbed to be removed. A good faller with moderate skill can tackle a tree like this. And what makes you think to climb it to set the rope? Why not safely use a throw bag to set it. Much safer. But hey, nothing like a typical tree climber to over complicate a simple falling job that can be done safely from the ground. Be safe friends.

 

[Lightning Performance]

I’ll never understand why climbers insist trees gotta be climbed to be removed. A good faller with moderate skill can tackle a tree like this. And what makes you think to climb it to set the rope? Why not safely use a throw bag to set it. Much safer. But hey, nothing like a typical tree climber to over complicate a simple falling job that can be done safely from the ground. Be safe friends.

If you say so but no one said it had to be climbed. Some do for a better rigging point or a bridle maybe a nearby zipline to the chipper if possible
But remember you can't always get the shotline set where it needs to be or piss around all day woth that is suckers from nearby trees or vines. So while I'm up there checking the trees stability it gets a shallow notch and then repel down after setting a line. If not the whole thing is a ground game and I got game. Why not remove all the dead you can with a shotline and rigging line?
Don't step on your tongue because it hangs out too far.
Have a nice day.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

If you say so but no one said it had to be climbed. Some do for a better rigging point or a bridle maybe a nearby zipline to the chipper if possible
But remember you can't always get the shotline set where it needs to be or piss around all day woth that is suckers from nearby trees or vines. So while I'm up there checking the trees stability it gets a shallow notch and then repel down after setting a line. If not the whole thing is a ground game and I got game. Why not remove all the dead you can with a shotline and rigging line?
Don't step on your tongue because it hangs out too far.
Have a nice day.

Lightning, this is the homeowners helper forum... maybe read the whole post before suggesting climbing it.

 

[derwoodii]

Cabbage Tree Creek area outside of Orbost,

Aye lad, i was driving past tho here only last Thursdays on way back from Canberra down the Monaro Hwy, Cann River not the sweet little town and pub of 88 its got big concrete servos and city stuff now.

Ol work mate Glenn sounds intresting fella maybe his scaff and wait it is an idea for you.. i seen old rotten pine change in disposition after the scaff laid in exposing the depth of decay so scaff it walk back take look before commence back cut