254XP hogging out intake?

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272super

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I've read the 254xp benefits from opening up the intake. Some mention to hog out the intake elbow and/or do the same to the lower air filter. Is it both or just the lower air filter cover? Given the fact the carb opening is already the same outside diameter as the intake elbow how much can be gained from the hogging out the elbow? The lower filter cover does have a smaller opening on one end so it would make sense to open that up. Just looking for any clarification on the mod. Thanks
 
I have a stock 1997 254xp that I bought new. It is not as strong as it was new but its close, the compression is 140psi where it was 150psi when new.

I read the same thing you did so I opened up the Air Filter outlet hole and the intake elbow. I also made the muffler a dual port by adding a large Husqvarna deflecter in front of the factory one. (see pic)
I could not tell a difference in power, I then tried adjusting carb to get it to 4 stroke.

The H screw will bottom out and the saw will still not 4 stroke, the rpms max out at about 14,000 rpm. I had read some 254xp's have a governor built into the carb but I don't know enough to tell.

When I get time I'm going to try a diiferent carb and see if it helps but needless to say I was disappointed in this mod.
I hope someone with experince with 254xp's will chime in on this subject.

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It depends on which air filter you have. As far as hogging out goes- I think people were referring to the casting
flaws in the intake elbow. You don't really want to hog anything out on these. Just smooth out the intake tract.

Longwood- are you referring to bottoming out the high adjustment on your 254 as going clockwise?
 
Longwood- are you referring to bottoming out the high adjustment on your 254 as going clockwise?

Yes, Turning the H screw in clockwise and when it bottoms out the rpms are still climbing and the saw has not reached 4 stroke rpm yet. What is the reason for this?

My other saws will start to lose rpms before the H screw bottoms out.
 
Yes, Turning the H screw in clockwise and when it bottoms out the rpms are still climbing and the saw has not reached 4 stroke rpm yet. What is the reason for this?

My other saws will start to lose rpms before the H screw bottoms out.

turning the jet in is leaning it out. it won't "4 stroke". you need to turn it out (anti clockwise).;)
in is less fuel, out is more. on both hi and low.
 
turning the jet in is leaning it out. it won't "4 stroke". you need to turn it out (anti clockwise).;)
in is less fuel, out is more. on both hi and low.

I know turning the screws in leans the saw and out richens it. On this saw when the H screw is all the way in the rpms are at the highest. If you turn it out the rpms go down.
It is impossible to adjust it to 4 stroke, it is to rich even with to H screw all the way in.
 
I know turning the screws in leans the saw and out richens it. On this saw when the H screw is all the way in the rpms are at the highest. If you turn it out the rpms go down.
It is impossible to adjust it to 4 stroke, it is to rich even with to H screw all the way in.

where is the low set?
 
I know turning the screws in leans the saw and out richens it. On this saw when the H screw is all the way in the rpms are at the highest. If you turn it out the rpms go down.
It is impossible to adjust it to 4 stroke, it is to rich even with to H screw all the way in.

What this means is you are too lean. What should happen is, the further you turn the screw in the less it will 4 stroke. If you back it out it should start to 4 stroke again. Lack of 4 stroking means one thing and that is, the saw is leaning out. I think your understanding of 4 stroking is not quite right? Just trying to help. Back the H out and see if the 4 stroking comes back. If so, you have your answer. You could have an air leak or carb issue that would limit the rpm's too.
 
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I absolutely love my 254! It is one of my "go to" saws! I cleaned up the black plastic intake elbow on mine and I widened up the exhaust port and matched the muff to it. then I added a port right smack in the middle of the muff, and the saw runs GREAT!! Had it at one of the GTG and stuffed it in some wood back in January and I loved it! I have not touched the intake port at all...and I don't think I need to...
 
That's how it's supposed to work. If it's still running with the needle all the way in, then it either has a governor, or the carb's screwed up.

Brad,
You seem to be the only one that has a clue. Tell me, have you modded saws with a governor carb? If so, did you do anything about the governor?
 
Brad,
You seem to be the only one that has a clue. Tell me, have you modded saws with a governor carb? If so, did you do anything about the governor?

The governor can be blocked off, but for some reason I don't remember the 254 ever having a governed carb. What are the numbers
on the side of the carb? I'm assuming it's an HDA...
 
I absolutely love my 254! It is one of my "go to" saws! I cleaned up the black plastic intake elbow on mine and I widened up the exhaust port and matched the muff to it. then I added a port right smack in the middle of the muff, and the saw runs GREAT!! Had it at one of the GTG and stuffed it in some wood back in January and I loved it! I have not touched the intake port at all...and I don't think I need to...

Powerking I like my 254 as well great saws . Mine is stock and I would love to see picks of what you have done to yours ( muff and elbow ) . Mine is a bear to pull over for a smaller saw .
 
hda 35b

That's how it's supposed to work. If it's still running with the needle all the way in, then it either has a governor, or the carb's screwed up.

one of my 254"s would run with the h needle seated...turns out this carb has a governor....mine was leaking...ran too rich ...this governor..limiter.. is located inside the carb...no external access (ie..brass screw)..three parts..splined retainer ring,,fix jet and an oring...
 
one of my 254"s would run with the h needle seated...turns out this carb has a governor....mine was leaking...ran too rich ...this governor..limiter.. is located inside the carb...no external access (ie..brass screw)..three parts..splined retainer ring,,fix jet and an oring...

Thanks,
Sounds exactly like my 254. I see a different carb in its future.
 
That's how it's supposed to work. If it's still running with the needle all the way in, then it either has a governor, or the carb's screwed up.

It could also be a carb with a dual high speed circuit, where only part of the high speed fuel is being metered with the needle and the rest with a fixed jet. But it's more likely that the needle/seat and/or diaphragm is messed up. I'd vacuum check the carb to check the needle/seat function.
 
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