261 Husky Compression

[cus_deluxe]

Sorry, did not realize you could not request that info, I apologize.
Many Thanks!

Nahh, he just meant meant that the supplier he mentioned is the sponsor of another chainsaw related forum and for whatever reason theres still internet beef over stuff that doesnt matter thst happened years ago. Lol. Watch this. OPE . O P E .

 

[cus_deluxe]

The letters blanked out are the same as the letters that arent, just without a space in between. A little searching will provide another source of some info.

 

[dustinwilt68]

I am sure I have a good cylinder if your interested pm me

 

[Trent Curtis]

The letters blanked out are the same as the letters that arent, just without a space in between. A little searching will provide another source of some info.

You see, Cus.... this is why we can be friends

 

[TripleT]

Thanks for the advise and info. Parts are on the way. I will most certainly do a pressure and vacuum test. Still not sure what caused this to happen. I believe it was getting air from somewhere because it was running erratic. Got new seals on the way, is there anything else you all recommend to make this end up as it should and what is the recommended squish clearance or is it something I need to be concerned with.
Thanks again Ray

 

[TripleT]

Well got her put back together everything looked great. Vacuum and pressure test held. Had to search two counties for new muffler bolts. Ended up getting some that were to long and cutting them to fit. Kit came with the wrong carb gasket and had to make one of those. Other than those couple hickups she went back together nicely. Now the bad, the DA.N thing want crank. Checked spark,OK/ fiddled w/carb she is getting fuel (should be close enough to get at least something) /checked compression 130+. Only thing is and I'm not sure if this is whats killing me, I coated the bearings, rings, inside cylinder real heavy with 2 cycle oil, I squirted about 1/2 thimble full of it on top of the piston (a little more than I wanted) then I rotated it multiple times and then cleaned it up. Reckon I drowned her with the oil. Will get back on her tomorrow, any advise would be appreciated.
Thanks Ray

 

[Wood Doctor]

"Now the bad, the DA.N thing want crank."
---------------------------------
Not sure exactly what that means. First things first. Remove the spark plug, Will it crank and turn over easily with the plug removed? I assume it will because you said the spark was OK.

 

[TripleT]

Thanks Wood Doctor. I was trying to being nice, DA.N was short for DAMN! Yes sir it turns over as expected. Just not sure if the excess oil is whats causing my problem. I pulled on her till my arm hurt, part of that was getting her clean and dried out. I'm sure I flooded her once or twice and had to get that corrected. I was at a point I just needed to take a break. This is the first top end rebuild I've done. Worked on saws, weed eaters, mowers etc for years but never to this degree. The saw belongs to a real good friend and he loves the saw so I told him I'd give it a shot. Again I appreciate any advise.
Thanks, Ray

 

[Wood Doctor]

Thanks Wood Doctor. I was trying to being nice, DA.N was short for DAMN! Yes sir it turns over as expected. Just not sure if the excess oil is whats causing my problem. I pulled on her till my arm hurt, part of that was getting her clean and dried out. I'm sure I flooded her once or twice and had to get that corrected. I was at a point I just needed to take a break. This is the first top end rebuild I've done. Worked on saws, weed eaters, mowers etc for years but never to this degree. The saw belongs to a real good friend and he loves the saw so I told him I'd give it a shot. Again I appreciate any advise.
Thanks, Ray

I understood the cuss abbreviation. So, it turns over, probably has compression, has a spark, but will not start and you don't even get a pop. Is the plug getting wet with fuel? If not, remove the plug, pour in a few dabs of mixed fuel, replace the plug and see if she will pop and try to run. If it does pop, tries to run and dies, you likely have fuel delivery problem (i.e., no fuel is getting from the tank to the intake manifold) or the carb is not supplying the correct mixture. It could also be an air leak caused by bad crank seals or a cracked intake manifold boot. The impulse connection may also be blocked. The carb need a signal from that impulse opening to do its job.

I recently ran into something like this with a Husky 350. Turned out that a new carb solved the problem.

 

[TripleT]

Wood Dr. I found the problem. The flywheel key is sheared. And would you know its milled in, really don't understand why they went to these. Reckon Ill be hunting a new flywheel. I really appreciate your help. I'm an HVAC person by trade, if I can ever help give me a shout.
Thanks Again, Ray

 

[TripleT]

When you round up a cylinder delete the base gasket and ck squish. If it’s too close space it out with a soda can gasket and it will be good to go. I have done several this way. Do a simple MM and these things really come alive. And the 261 will have the preferred metal clutch cover. You can replace the starter decal also if you want. Good luck with the build.

Make sure you pressure and vac test.

 

[TripleT]

This is her!

 

[rupedoggy]

Until you get the new flywheel put the old one on. Clean off all grease and oil and line up the sheared key where it is suppossed to go. Tighten down good and run it. The taper holds. Mike

 

[TripleT]

Thanks Rupedoggy, I did just that and she came alive. Man feels like a new saw. This flywheel is no longer available (5035294-01) do you think I need to find a used one and change it out?
Thanks Again, Ray

 

[Wood Doctor]

Thanks Rupedoggy, I did just that and she came alive. Man feels like a new saw. This flywheel is no longer available (5035294-01) do you think I need to find a used one and change it out?
Thanks Again, Ray

I ran into this sheared flywheel key problem a few years back when I rebuilt a Stihl saw with bad crank seals. I never dreamed that you needed to remove the flywheel with just a top end rebuild. I seldom ever have to do that.

Glad to see that it fixed the problem. I would go with what you have. Just be sure the flywheel is tight as s drum. The key is nothing but an indicator for recommended timing. It does nothing to secure the flywheel to the crankshaft. Your friend will love this rebuilt saw.

 

[TripleT]

I ran into this sheared flywheel key problem a few years back when I rebuilt a Stihl saw with bad crank seals. I never dreamed that you needed to remove the flywheel with just a top end rebuild. I seldom ever have to do that.

Glad to see that it fixed the problem. I would go with what you have. Just be sure the flywheel is tight as s drum. The key is nothing but an indicator for recommended timing. It does nothing to secure the flywheel to the crankshaft. Your friend will love this rebuilt saw.

Yes sir, I removed the flywheel to replaced the seals just to make sure she was not sucking air and I stripped her down gave her a good cleaning before I started the rebuild. Basically took everything apart except splitting the case. I will check on to make sure its tight. Yep talked to him earlier and he itching to give her a try.
Whats your though on running 32:1 vs 40:1 oil in her? Thanks for the help!
Ray

 

[Deleted member 117362]

Yes sir, I removed the flywheel to replaced the seals just to make sure she was not sucking air and I stripped her down gave her a good cleaning before I started the rebuild. Basically took everything apart except splitting the case. I will check on to make sure its tight. Yep talked to him earlier and he itching to give her a try.
Whats your though on running 32:1 vs 40:1 oil in her? Thanks for the help!
Ray

You can cut a groove in flywheel where key was and make a key to fit into crank and flywheel slots. Don't start an oil thread, it always goes bad. 40:1 is fine.

 

[TripleT]

Duce,
Wasn't trying to start something, but I appreciate your advise.
Thanks