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I am turning 14 this July. I will be using my savings from my firewood, pollinator-friendly mosquito control, and lawn care businesses as well as birthday money to buy a 261 because my 170 is good for carving and small tree removal but is terrible for bucking up huge logs. I originally wanted an MS 250 but really need something that can pull a 20" chain, be used frequently, and get double dogs. I am also going to buy a WCS kit ( Dogs to put on it and an exhaust mod once my warranty is up ) for it to upgrade it a bit. I need answers to the following questions:

1. M-Tronic or Manual carb? For background, I annually cut trees for a client of mine who owns an Airbnb in the mountains and I live fairly low in terms of elevation ( In the DMV area on the east coast ) and use my saws year-round.
2. Is 20" the best length?
3. Do any of you guys know if the light bars are good and make a big weight difference?

Thank you for reading and hopefully answering!

And no, my ms 170 does not have a carving bar on it because I use an MS 194c ( Rear handle ) as a carver.




















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The light bars are great, they are also 1.3mm while the normal ones are 1.5 which helps with cutting speed. Get a 16 or 18", imho 20" is pushing it for a 50cc. I'd use the saw a bit before adding bigger dogs and altering the exhaust.
 
The light bars are great, they are also 1.3mm while the normal ones are 1.5 which helps with cutting speed. Get a 16 or 18", imho 20" is pushing it for a 50cc. I'd use the saw a bit before adding bigger dogs and altering the exhaust.
Getting myself back on topic 😎 - I needed a new bar for my MS250 and got a light bar for that saw. I guess I'm one of the lucky ones because my 250 hasn't given me any starting fits. I like the new bar, now I run .050 .325 on both saws. This one has become my backup/extra saw. Seems to be a bit snappier but that may be psychological. I don't have any measurable data one way or the other. .063 on a saw like this seems to be overkill and the .050 combo did make the saw/bar better balanced imo but the claimed weight savings comes from the bar and the chain.
 
Why didn't you just clear the path?

Mad3400
My thought exactly.

If you don't have any yet, get a couple of felling wedges. They are very handy from avoiding a pinched bar on logs like that. If you're like me and are too stubborn to use them, they are also handy at getting your bar UN-pinched on logs like that. I use a small axe to drive them, but on a log a hammer will work fine.
 
Getting myself back on topic 😎 - I needed a new bar for my MS250 and got a light bar for that saw. I guess I'm one of the lucky ones because my 250 hasn't given me any starting fits. I like the new bar, now I run .050 .325 on both saws. This one has become my backup/extra saw. Seems to be a bit snappier but that may be psychological. I don't have any measurable data one way or the other. .063 on a saw like this seems to be overkill and the .050 combo did make the saw/bar better balanced imo but the claimed weight savings comes from the bar and the chain.
Can I ask what length you are running on your 250? Semi or full chisel? I'm looking to get a lightweight bar for mine which is 18" semi, but the saw seems like it wants more load. I have like 6 chains for it so was thinking of learning square grinding.

Also, to make them easier to start, gut the muffler and add an extra exit port. I've found, too, that the OEM gaskets on these (at least the 2 I've worked on) are smaller that the exhaust port, and may require some milling.
 
Can I ask what length you are running on your 250? Semi or full chisel?
18" bar, semi chisel. Very happy with it. Instead of having this solely as a backup, this Summer I've used it more than the Echo, which I'm also happy with... The 250 with the narrow chain and bar makes for a very lightweight package overall and it feels very balanced to me...
 

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