3"8" chain on a Stihl 261

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It does exist!

[video=youtube_share;Er2sq61ejqU]http://youtu.be/Er2sq61ejqU[/video]
 
Got a mm'd 261 on the way back from blsnelling, should be here today. Man I can't wait, I get Tuesday, Wednesdays off and I got a pile of red oak waiting to get blocked up. But to the original poster, I would wait for the 261 c-m. Especially if your not running your saw for a living. Nothing against the regular 261 though,, good saw there.
 
Got a mm'd 261 on the way back from blsnelling, should be here today. Man I can't wait, I get Tuesday, Wednesdays off and I got a pile of red oak waiting to get blocked up. But to the original poster, I would wait for the 261 c-m. Especially if your not running your saw for a living. Nothing against the regular 261 though,, good saw there.

Is there going to be a way to adjust these saws to richen them up? How about repairs down the road. I just hate being the guinea pig for stihl. Their older technology just seems to be so good.
 
Is there going to be a way to adjust these saws to richen them up? How about repairs down the road. I just hate being the guinea pig for stihl. Their older technology just seems to be so good.

The M-tronic "computer controlled carb" should run the saw at optimum "carb" settings at all times. Will it hold up down the road??? Good question there...the 441 c-m seems to be holding up so far from what I know. But this is why I gather most loggers/fellers prefer the older adjustable carb, it's been proven and would be easier to work on in the field if something did come up.
 
The M-tronic "computer controlled carb" should run the saw at optimum "carb" settings at all times. Will it hold up down the road??? Good question there...the 441 c-m seems to be holding up so far from what I know. But this is why I gather most loggers/fellers prefer the older adjustable carb, it's been proven and would be easier to work on in the field if something did come up.

Everyone on here talks about how the saws run lean from the factory bad for life of saw but good for the EPA. Why would these saws be any different? If you cant change the carburetor settings then I am assuming that is bad.
 
Everyone on here talks about how the saws run lean from the factory bad for life of saw but good for the EPA. Why would these saws be any different? If you cant change the carburetor settings then I am assuming that is bad.

Yea good point. I believe the m-tronic and autotune saws are more for EPA/fuel savings like you mention. I don't think the m-tronic and autotune are "adjustable" as in the conventional sense. You can reset em when things go awry, but that's it I think..:confused:
 
I'm quite happy with M-Tronic, and wish they applied it to more products in their line. No primers, no two position choke, and no worrying if your saw is rich enough.

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If you're that worried about the EPA trashing your new M-Tronic or AutoTune saw, just buy something else.
 
The spark plug pictured is from a MS 441 R C-M running 3"8" fool chizzel. :givebeer:
 
I'm quite happy with M-Tronic, and wish they applied it to more products in their line. No primers, no two position choke, and no worrying if your saw is rich enough.

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If you're that worried about the EPA trashing your new M-Tronic or AutoTune saw, just buy something else.

I am not worried, but I am here to learn. From the reading I have been doing (on this site)it does seem like a lot of people like the CM saw. But a lot of people also say to run your saw rich. So I am just trying to figure out if you can change the settings on the saw. It sounds like you cant. Maybe that is a big deal maybe it is not just trying to get an idea from people.
Thanks
 
Well as far as 3/8" chain goes, that's the setup I'm running on my 261, but I did open up the exhaust and richen the screws so she would burble right. Stock she was way too lean and ran very hot (although miserly on the fuel). I was initially disappointed in the torque and thought about going to a .325 setup with a bit smaller cog. I'm glad I didn't as after the initial break-in (which was about 12 tanks) and then re-tuning it after opening the muffler up a bit, I was blown away at the difference. I loved my old 346 (which wore .325 chain on a 16" guide) as it felt like a scalpel in my hands. The 261 is a bit more portly, but I like it a lot and it definitely has more torque. Now my 261 pulls a 3/8" chain on a 16" guide bar with authority. I have taken many smaller (10-18") hedge trees out with it s well as a host of Hackleberrys, Oaks and Locusts. In 12" wood or less, it flat out-pulls my Stumpbroke 372xp, but that's only because the 372 is wearing a 7 pin rim. If I changed it out, it might be different. There are many times I actually reach for the 261 over my 6401 and 372xp simply for it's weight, control and relatively awesome power.

Short novel long, YES, I love having 1 file size (Unless I buy Stihl brand chain then still 2 sizes) with all of my work saws wearing .050-3/8" chain, so the only discriminator that I have to worry about is which length bar I'm grabbing a loop for. It's also nice that the Dolkita and 372xp have the exact same bar mount... Now to add a 562xp to the collection.
 
On the auto tune or Mtronic it should just tune itself to optimum settings so no need to worry about it being to lean or richening it up
 
On the auto tune or Mtronic it should just tune itself to optimum settings so no need to worry about it being to lean or richening it up

That's what I was trying to get at originally...say if you do a Mmod the m-tronic or autotune would just calibrate itself without a problem, but I have no first hand experience with this new technology...:msp_biggrin:
 
The one good thing with the 261's is they have a lot of torque. They'll pull 3/8" chain no worries in some very hard wood. People often forget that 3/8" wears significantly better than .325" as well. I ran both .325" and 3/8" on my 261 and settled on 3/8".
In softer woods I'd probably go .325" but we don't see much soft timber where I am.
Here's my now sold 261 a few years ago with a 20" Tsumura and 3/8" semi chisel in some of the hardest wood I've come across. Not sure of the species but right up there with Box. I said Tasmanian Blue Gum in the video but after cutting a lot more Tassie Blue Gum (in Tasmania and locally) there is no way known this is Blue Gum - way too hard.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/fXG38RL7lno" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

It's timber like this that makes people outside Australia assume your chain is blunt :)
 
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I still stand by my previous thoughts on the subject:

I think the biggest drawback to 3/8 on a 50cc saw is the much larger diameter rim sprocket that must be used. I tried 3/8 on my MS260 PRO for a short time, but then went back to .325. The 3/8 required a light touch to keep in the power band. I guess Husqy guys are probably used to that though...
 
I like the way .325 cuts on a 50cc saw, but I see very few guys that make a living with a saw wanting to use .325. They say it dulls faster.
 
Well my problems has been solved, now I just have new ones. I go over to my father in law one day and he decides to give me his 260. Barely used with a 20" bar and (4) 3/8" chains. Now I have problems of what do to with this saw?

Thanks for the help.
 

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