32" bar Chain snaking in the wood

[MCW]

The chain was obviously done on a grinder the popular way:
Put chain on grinder.
Set top plate angle.
Set chain stop.
Grind one side of chain.
Flip top plate angle.
Grind other side.

If you do it this way, you get your left cutters shorter then your right.

Actually mate with a well setup and adjusted grinder this won't happen. However, my MAXX couldn't be adjusted and was causing problems exactly as you have described. My new Speed Sharp Auto craps all over the MAXX for accuracy - no adjustment needed when swapping the head left to right. A perfectly symmetrical grinder shouldn't need to be touched. If you're dead certain that your angles are accurate and the bar is OK then I'm stumped Must be something wrong with the chain.

Are you holding your tongue on the right side of your mouth?

 

[poulson01]

LOL! No this is real.
The bar starts to bend in the cut.
It cuts nice and straight for maybe 15"-20" and then the bar starts to bind.
You gotta push like hell to get any more chips.
Then it just stops feeding and you have to yank and wiggle the bar out of the wood. The cut is still straight though. The bar bows in the cut.

If you look through the curf, you don't see daylight. It's like you're running a loose band saw and making a wavy cut.

And yes....the chain is tight.

And yes...I know about those really good grinders.
I hand file...carefully and with a guide....and a depth gage.
I usually only grind when the chain is damaged or the top plates are looking rounded.

 

[poulson01]

Bar grove mikes at .053
I was thinking about getting one of those little English wheel things from Baileys just because.

By the way, what's the part number on this bar?
It says:
RSN B (?)
32/80 (That be the bar length)
050/1 3 (That be the gage)
3/8 (Pitch)
105DL (Drivers)
92670 (?)
FS (?)
MADE IN CANADA (??)

 

[Grande Dog]

Howdy,
The .053 is not to bad but, when you consider the chain is down around .043, that's to much play on that long of a bar. A new, or different chain is in order.
Regards
Gregg

 

[JimmyDee]

Actually mate with a well setup and adjusted grinder this won't happen. However, my MAXX couldn't be adjusted and was causing problems exactly as you have described. My new Speed Sharp Auto craps all over the MAXX for accuracy - no adjustment needed when swapping the head left to right. A perfectly symmetrical grinder shouldn't need to be touched. If you're dead certain that your angles are accurate and the bar is OK then I'm stumped Must be something wrong with the chain.

Are you holding your tongue on the right side of your mouth?

-Speed Sharp Auto - where did you get this sharpener? Do you know if it is available in the states if you didn't get it here.
Thanks
Jim

 

[MCW]

-Speed Sharp Auto - where did you get this sharpener? Do you know if it is available in the states if you didn't get it here.
Thanks
Jim

Hi Jim.
The Speed Sharp series are made by Tecomec in Italy and my Grinder is exactly the same as the Oregon 511A Auto (I think that's the right model - someone correct me if I'm wrong) just red and not black.
I got mine in Australia through the importers but I believe they are available in the US also.
Hope that helps but they are an excellent grinder with very few faults, unlike the MAXX I had. That MAXX grinder cost me a lot of time and frustration until I found out it was all over the shop with it's angles.
I can put the same ground chains time and time again on the Speed Sharp, set the same angles, and it will grind the tooth EXACTLY as it did before with no obvious or measurable errors.
Matt.