32" detailed Bar Comparison Video

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"Substances with very low emissivity ratings, like highly-polished metals, tend to be very reflective of ambient infrared energy and less effective at emitting their own electromagnetic waves. If you were to point an infrared thermometer with fixed emissivity at the side of a stainless steel pot filled with boiling water, for example, you might get a reading closer to 100°F (38°C) than 212°F (100°C). That’s because the shiny metal is better at reflecting the ambient radiation of the room than it is at emitting its own infrared radiation."
Source: http://www.thermoworks.com/blog/2012/03/infrared-thermometry/
Without a hard contact thermocouple to compare readings it leaves your numbers with some question of accuracy for me.

Thermal meters are a lot more accurate than your source you linked and your thinking, I personally was using those things for years and never had a issue with them.
If you do not like this man's report nor his numbers then that is your prerogative, however don't sit there and try to dismiss everything he took time out to do for us with this testing.
Redbull clearly stated his results were the same with the 20", 24", 28", and 36" so the darn paint is not that doing to be that consistent and cause said readings, plus the fact he placed his hand on the bar without being burnt was a dead giveaway that something is dissipating the heat.
 
Thermal meters are a lot more accurate than your source you linked and your thinking, I personally was using those things for years and never had a issue with them.
If you do not like this man's report nor his numbers then that is your prerogative, however don't sit there and try to dismiss everything he took time out to do for us with this testing.
Redbull clearly stated his results were the same with the 20", 24", 28", and 36" so the darn paint is not that doing to be that consistent and cause said readings, plus the fact he placed his hand on the bar without being burnt was a dead giveaway that something is dissipating the heat.
Or .............. it didn't build up in the first place.
The rest was well said, and I agree 100%
 
Just wanted to understand the data points and accuracy.

And were before I asked, was it stated about the use of a digit contact thermocouple being used to verify the IR readings?



;)
 
Just wanted to understand the data points and accuracy.

And were before I asked, was it stated about the use of a digit contact thermocouple being used to verify the IR readings?



;)
Thermocouples are subject to influence from ambient surroundings.
To be accurate with them they must be insulated from outside influences.
 
I wonder if a real short thermocouple could be used in place of the decomp to get egts?
 
I wonder if a real short thermocouple could be used in place of the decomp to get egts?
Well, I could get that done if I had 1/8" FPT in the decomp threads.
I have stainless K type thermocouples and sealed fittings to place them in line with piping up to 1000 psi

If you have a cylinder for any 1119, 1122, 1128, or 1144 series of saws that you wouldnt mind changing over to 1/8 FPT then I will do it.

I could also weld up and tap the decomp hole for 1/8 FPT, but I would need to get a cylinder and some filler rod first
 
Well, I could get that done if I had 1/8" FPT in the decomp threads.
I have stainless K type thermocouples and sealed fittings to place them in line with piping up to 1000 psi

If you have a cylinder for any 1119, 1122, 1128, or 1144 series of saws that you wouldnt mind changing over to 1/8 FPT then I will do it.

I could also weld up and tap the decomp hole for 1/8 FPT, but I would need to get a cylinder and some filler rod first
I didn't know if there was any ready available for that size. I've used 1/8" npt and 1/4" npt for diesel pickups in the manifold.
 
I never said you didn't do it properly. There's no reason to bull up. I simply stated a fact. Chain tension can't be accurately measured by "eyeballing". Chain tension causes heat. I like your test but you'd be silly if you didn't admit that.
Regardless of XXX pounds and ounces of tension, if he eyeballed them all the same as any user would when mounting a bar/chain, then I buy into the results. I personally feel the harder bars have lower coefficients of friction and therefore generate less heat.
 
so, I read this whole thread, although the videos were no longer available. i am in the market for a 25 or 28" bar and trying to decide which to get. It will go on a stihl 661 cm. its set up for 3/8 .050, so I want to stick with that. What is the answer here?
 
28 total lite (made by tsumura but .050) or 28 stihl lite. 28" balances the 660 661 better than the 25". 8pin sprocket would be my choice to run on the 661 with 28".
 
I have a 20 and a 32 for it currently, both stihl bars. the 32 is way to end heavy, but sometimes I just need the larger bar on there. The 20 takes care of 75% of my cutting needs. a 25 would likely take care of 95%
 
why ask me if you have it figured out.

the 28" balances better - thus the saw actually feels lighter than with the 25. Handles better more nimble than with the 25". The 28" also runs faster and runs cooler.


here is a test with a 661. all tsumura bars 20 24 28 32 36. all new chains. same wood.
 

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Sounds good. I appreciate the advice. I was trying to give all info to get an appropriate opinion from you. I appreciate it. I will get a 28 and swap out the sprocket. Pretty sure its a 7 pin currently.
 
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but if a little point amd shoot Raytech type of temperature reading was used, these results are likely very inaccurate for reading bar temperatures of painted bars vs bare metal bars. Paint and bare metal have different emissivity and will not be 1:1 comparible with each other.

So, how did you you check the temps? And why when I click on the video does it say "video no longer available "?
 
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but if a little point amd shoot Raytech type of temperature reading was used, these results are likely very inaccurate for reading bar temperatures of painted bars vs bare metal bars. Paint and bare metal have different emissivity and will not be 1:1 comparible with each other.

So, how did you you check the temps? And why when I click on the video does it say "video no longer available "?

If not already asked I wonder how the tightness of the chain was kept same throughout the test.



If I wasn't precise in my method. Then there wouldn't be an established trend across the board. If you can't see the trends/patterns. Then I can't help you.

Flir thermo unit - they run about $2k.

videos down - No one watched them.

Furthermore, had you actually read through the thread your question about the bar temp readings were indeed legitimate or not, was covered.
 

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If I wasn't precise in my method. Then there wouldn't be an established trend across the board. If you can't see the trends/patterns. Then I can't help you.

Flir thermo unit - they run about $2k.

videos down - No one watched them.

Furthermore, had you actually read through the thread your question about the bar temp readings were indeed legitimate or not, was covered.
Sorry you felt the need to respond so sarcastically, but I shouldn't have to read an entire thread to get the essence of the original post. I was merely bringing a potential equipment shortcoming to your attention.

I'm aware of the Flir unit you speak of, we have one at work.

"Consistent" results are not indicative of accurate results. Why wouldn't you just leave the videos up? Youtube doesn't charge to host. All my videos have been up on youtube for years, I don't even think about them anymore. If no one watches, it's no skin off my back.
 
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