Those coils commonly crap out, they seem to be the wrong size for the small flywheel or something, they're actually the same coil as found on 395's 372's 365's etc.
Those little XPT huskys/ jonnys, to breathe freely, muffler mod needed, three extra exit holes (unrestricted flow with no deflector is best but loud..) (good excuse to spend $$ on grade 5+ earmuffs) Dremelled and widened exhaust port adds definite extra bite, cylinder inlet port hard to access for widening, but carb manifold and inlet tube can be opened out a bit.
Possibly a tank breather mod with a better flow with flapper/one-way type to keep pressure in the tank and a consistent tune, rather than the epa stifled nonsense they came out with. (they may have improved the restrictive tank breather system by now?)
Ditch the equally nonsense 14" and 16" bars some clueless clown at the dealers thinks are correct for a top-handle saw. 12" bars are the proper match for a compact top-handle saw. If someone "needs" a 14"-16" bar for "reach" then that immediately tells you that they're using poor technique ...
Ditch the chainbrake, the chainbrake is just a clumsy crock of P.C. crap that does nothing but get jammed-on constantly. All a chainbrake on a tophandle saw does is add weight, restrict movement, unbalance the saw, snag falling branches and strain your wrists . If anyone's not capable of operating a tophandle saw without coming to grief every five minutes then they should stay the hell away from chainsaws, rear-handle or top-handle. Seriously.
Of course, reading this the pursed-lipped brigade on this site will be screaming and waving their arms in panic, ringing the FBI and damn near choking with indignation and self-righteousness about suggestions of having no chainbrake..... Incredible how the great chainbrake brainwashing scam can put blinkers on otherwise seemingly intelligent people and turn them into blind and un-thinking sheep ... LOL