I've never seen a cage like that either. It looks to be nylon, but appears to be riveted. I need the kind that you can snap in and out.
346 Crank Bearings
- Thread starter blsnelling
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I've never seen a cage like that either. It looks to be nylon, but appears to be riveted. I need the kind that you can snap in and out.
Ok, I've torn apart about 20 or so OEs and never saw a bearing like that with a phenolic cage in a modern Husky saw. All of the ones I've done had the clip-together steel cages.
Here's a site with some good info: http://www.gobearings.com/cages.htm
bearings
A very good source of bearing info. I had some of the steel ribbon retainer get loose in my 266xp at idle, but still required the cylinder, piston, and crank with new bearings form Violet's Brook Trading Post in NS. Good guy up there.
A very good source of bearing info. I had some of the steel ribbon retainer get loose in my 266xp at idle, but still required the cylinder, piston, and crank with new bearings form Violet's Brook Trading Post in NS. Good guy up there.
I just pulled my saw apart, and was surprised to find a nylon cage int the PTO side bearing. The flywheel side has the crimped together steel cage. Unfortunately, the ceramic balls that I have are the wrong size. So I'll be buying new bearings anyway.
vw_motorsports
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Most engines, I my opinion the weak link are the rod bearing(s) and rod bolts. Since modern chainsaw engines have eliminated the rod bolts, I would be concerned that the big end rod bearing may not be up to the task of a high rpm 15+K saw for everyday use. Are there upgradeable ceramic rollers bearings??
Some old MACs I've seen with rod bolts...they use cage-less roller bearings for the big end rod bearing. Nice...some of the older saws are so cool.
Some old MACs I've seen with rod bolts...they use cage-less roller bearings for the big end rod bearing. Nice...some of the older saws are so cool.
andrethegiant70
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This is a pretty interesting subject (that probably means I am a psycho shut-in). A few things....
If the ceramic balls have less contact area with the steel, won't that add up to more load in a smaller area? A hybrid bearing might just result in the races wearing out faster. Story......the first run of AMT ACPs (Colt Automatic Pistols, for those who are not gun types) were stainless, but the AMT folks found that there was a lot of galling in the slide area. I believe they refined the materials and the fit and finally got it right in the later models. It's just an example of a case where the use of a supposed superior material required a lot more tinkering than folks expected.
With less thermal expansion of a full ceramic bearing, I'd like to hear how they install. Most of us use a hot/cold process to install bearings.... it'll be interesting to see if there are issues during assembly . I hope you'll report back, Brad, the whole ceramic bearing thing a great development. I suspect the price will come down drastically as the technology matures.
If the ceramic balls have less contact area with the steel, won't that add up to more load in a smaller area? A hybrid bearing might just result in the races wearing out faster. Story......the first run of AMT ACPs (Colt Automatic Pistols, for those who are not gun types) were stainless, but the AMT folks found that there was a lot of galling in the slide area. I believe they refined the materials and the fit and finally got it right in the later models. It's just an example of a case where the use of a supposed superior material required a lot more tinkering than folks expected.
With less thermal expansion of a full ceramic bearing, I'd like to hear how they install. Most of us use a hot/cold process to install bearings.... it'll be interesting to see if there are issues during assembly . I hope you'll report back, Brad, the whole ceramic bearing thing a great development. I suspect the price will come down drastically as the technology matures.
I found a shop in CA that hand builds their own bearings using the best US made components. I ordered two 6202 bearings at $35/ea. One catch though. The extra width of the PTO side bearing holds the crank seal. I've got a couple options I'm considering.
- Send my original bearing to CA to have them reassemble it with new ceramic balls.
- Disassemble the new bearing and put the ceramic balls in my bearing.
- Have the old bearing machined down such that I end up with a "shim" that makes up the difference in widths of the two bearings.
Dug up this old thread trying to find out some info on ceramic bearings.
I want to experiment with hybrid ceramic bearings for a Husqvarna 66 build I'm doing. May not be worth the trouble or cost, but I want to give it a go.
Stock Husqvarna bearings (738220225) I think they measure 15x35x11 (6202 2RS C3)
Will these bearings work?
6202-2RS Bearing Hybrid Ceramic Sealed 15x35x11 Ball Bearings
They look to be hybrid ceramic sealed bearings with the same dimensions. Anyone tried these out? Do I just remove the rubber seals from both sides prior to installing them?
I want to experiment with hybrid ceramic bearings for a Husqvarna 66 build I'm doing. May not be worth the trouble or cost, but I want to give it a go.
Stock Husqvarna bearings (738220225) I think they measure 15x35x11 (6202 2RS C3)
Will these bearings work?
6202-2RS Bearing Hybrid Ceramic Sealed 15x35x11 Ball Bearings
They look to be hybrid ceramic sealed bearings with the same dimensions. Anyone tried these out? Do I just remove the rubber seals from both sides prior to installing them?
Its not uncommon for stainless on stainless to gall.
As for the ceramic bearings, it is important that the bearings be C3 like the steel ones. The alignment of the two crankcase halves is probably not accurate enough for very high tolerance bearings, like some ceramics are.
As for the ceramic bearings, it is important that the bearings be C3 like the steel ones. The alignment of the two crankcase halves is probably not accurate enough for very high tolerance bearings, like some ceramics are.
My high revving 346 is doing great with the ceramic bearings. The most important thing is to use Si3N4 balls, not ZrO2. The ZrO2 balls will not last long at all. I lost a 372 crank within a dozen tanks or less due to ZrO2 bearings. The bearings went out so badly that the big end rod bearing was damaged. I went back with steel bearings, but would like to give another set of Si3N4 bearings a try.
So are these a better option?
S6202 Bearing 15x35x11 Si3N4 Ceramic Stainless Steel Open Nylon ABEC-7 Ball Bearings
Or is the radial clearance a no go (C0)
-Brad, or anyone...do you know where to buy a suitable bearing with the Si3N4 balls to fit my application?
S6202 Bearing 15x35x11 Si3N4 Ceramic Stainless Steel Open Nylon ABEC-7 Ball Bearings
Or is the radial clearance a no go (C0)
-Brad, or anyone...do you know where to buy a suitable bearing with the Si3N4 balls to fit my application?
nmurph
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What are you doing for the PTO side if you aren't using the 3203?
dsell
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I was just about to ask the same thing. The first two pictures are plastic cage bearings from a 345. I couldn't find any plastic remnants, but they played heck with the seals. The last two pictures show that there is no room in the 6202 bearing for the seal on the PTO side.
Sorry Brad, didn't see post #47.
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