346XP oil leaking (not the same as everyone elses oil leakage issues.)

[ken morgan]

So I finally got around to fixing both of my 346's oil leaking issues. they both starting puking oil last fall and finding the correct rubber parts was interesting as their are three different part numbers. First the NE.... two parts a upper and lower rubber portion with a clean out of the tank and strainer just in case.. initially I bought the parts for the OE, but found out that they were different, and would not fit per se... so i pulled them off, reassembled the OE and then pulled the NE apart...they fit, but low and behold no oil was to be had when revving at a target...hmmmm bump it.. out of time for this as the 372's had arrived back from Carl Miller and they were so much more fun to play with. I am like a dog who see's a squirrel...what can I say? so I dig around a bit on jacks website and find a part number that is only one part, I order it, along with another one of the split (two piece hose sets) and wait for it to arrive... it arrives but sits on the bench for several weeks as there were other things to do. finally get around to it and pulled the NE apart again to see where I f'd it up and surprisingly it all looked good to go... so i pulled the strainer off blasted it out with parts cleaner and compressed air and low and behold i got some what looked like petrified mouse turds that were made of wood dust and old oil out and upon reassembly it worked... Ha take that chainsaw Gods!!!

then i turn my attention back to the OE... now this is a japanese model with heated handles and I honestly had only run it once or twice after buying before getting the NE. and as it had a leaking issue I set it off to the side for a future project..... well after replacing the rubber once piece tube, and this time dutifully cleaning the strainer first i reassembled it. filled with gas, poured oil in and low and behold it was puking out oil almost as fast as i poured it in....Fark!!!

pulled all apart to find the oil was not coming from the pump area, but the bottom of the saw....the PO that i bought it from on yahoo japan had sold it claiming it had an oil leak from the oiler, but I thought nothing of it...its actually the retard put a longer screw in the bottom of the handle...and it slowly wore a hole through the case......

 

[ken morgan]

thinking I can drill tap, and thread a set screw into the hole....that or break it down and change the PTO side case....

 

[Sepia]

How big is the hole? Could you not just clean it up well, then put some JB Weld on it? I love your long rambling post - it's like reading a novel that you just can't put down.

 

[ken morgan]

How big is the hole? Could you not just clean it up well, then put some JB Weld on it? I love your long rambling post - it's like reading a novel that you just can't put down.

Ha ha ha, its like 2000 over here and just a tad bored.... contracts got me doing the early morning shuffle so my brain is in suspended animation. I could do one better than JB weld as I have its industrial strength older brother... Devcon plastic steel, (as well as the stainless,and aluminum versions). Not sure how they would react to a magnesium case, but the fabricator that dwells deep in my heart immediately said tap and die

 

[Sepia]

Yeah I'm like that too - always looking for the "right" solution haha. Unless you have a magnesium set screw, I would be more worried about the screw reacting with the case than the epoxy. You could always just drill a hole and jam a rubber plug in there too haha. See... in just a few seconds my mind is already thinking of more solutions to a simple problem lol.

 

[ken morgan]

Yeah I'm like that too - always looking for the "right" solution haha. Unless you have a magnesium set screw, I would be more worried about the screw reacting with the case than the epoxy. You could always just drill a hole and jam a rubber plug in there too haha. See... in just a few seconds my mind is already thinking of more solutions to a simple problem lol.

actually thatmight honestly be the best solution..... will have to look at that.

 

[huskihl]

If you clean the paint off the area and scuff it up with a burr J-B Weld actually works great. You might want to try plug-in off the inside somehow though so it doesn't run inside the oil tank

 

[Sepia]

If you clean the paint off the area and scuff it up with a burr J-B Weld actually works great. You might want to try plug-in off the inside somehow though so it doesn't run inside the oil tank

If you can get the inside of the tank clean you can just put a piece of tape inside over the hole and do the JB Weld from the outside (or vise-versa). I haven't thought of any other ideas yet lol.

 

[old guy]

I did one with JB weld 2 or 3 years ago, it's still holding.

 

[Tobystihl]

I did one with JB weld 2 or 3 years ago, it's still holding.

Yep, if you flush the oil tank out and get it clean and dry you can then jbweld the hole from the outside poking it through and mushrooming it inside the tank through the filler neck hole, makes for a solid repair that cannot fall out.

 

[ken morgan]

come on guys... we went from tapping and threading to goop it up with devcon? damn at least the rubber plug thing had me excited don't tell my co-workers though ha ha ha ha ha.

 

[Tobystihl]

come on guys... we went from tapping and threading to goop it up with devcon? damn at least the rubber plug thing had me excited don't tell my co-workers though ha ha ha ha ha.

I know where you are coming from, I have always tried to do the best job I can on repairing things like this, however traditional repairs such as you suggest (which I thoroughly agee with) don't really work with these modern magnesium egg shell thin casings. Trust me I spend many a sleepless night thinking how I am going to fix things don't get me wrong, I will always want to go down the route of replacing damaged parts, but sometimes it's not cost effective. Though it seems like a bodge, I think modern chemicals (ie jbweld) are the drilling and tapping of the future.

 

[ken morgan]

I know where you are coming from, I have always tried to do the best job I can on repairing things like this, however traditional repairs such as you suggest (which I thoroughly agee with) don't really work with these modern magnesium egg shell thin casings. Trust me I spend many a sleepless night thinking how I am going to fix things don't get me wrong, I will always want to go down the route of replacing damaged parts, but sometimes it's not cost effective. Though it seems like a bodge, I think modern chemicals (ie jbweld) are the drilling and tapping of the future.

Oh no doubts... We have some adhesives we use that we prefer over welding as it is just as strong, but with no stress risers around the weld... funny thing is when I was a youngster my first welding insgructor always said to me "you know the difference between welding, and brazing?... welding is a forging process ((temp and pressure)) brazing is an adhesive process...