I’m not certain. I’ve only seen black molded lines on themThat is the return line from the primer to the tank. Everything else looks oe, what should be there?
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I’m not certain. I’ve only seen black molded lines on themThat is the return line from the primer to the tank. Everything else looks oe, what should be there?
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What are you guys doing for the crappy plastic boot clamp? Trimming the plastic back and clamping the rubber with a metal clamp? I have some worm clamps I bought for 346's but the boots on those didnt have the built in plastic clamp.
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The premise is the same. The ones you’ve seen were already modified for the metal clamp, or were the later version that came with the metal clamp. @cuinrearview probably knows which clamp works for each situation. I’ve used a 372 clamp slipped underneath the plastic, clamping the boot only. If you have the metal clamp version, there is enough of the plastic bracket left to justify using a larger clamp on the outside of the plastic. I believe one from a 390 or 395 works. I’ve done it both ways, but I’m not certain which clamp I used when I went over the plasticWhat are you guys doing for the crappy plastic boot clamp? Trimming the plastic back and clamping the rubber with a metal clamp? I have some worm clamps I bought for 346's but the boots on those didnt have the built in plastic clamp.
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This is what I do. 1125 series Stihl or OE 372 clamp slipped under the plastic clamp with all of the extra tabs busted off or 385/390 or the PITA Husky one over the whole thing. If you modify the original plastic one for this just file the two ears off and leave the rest of the plastic ring.The premise is the same. The ones you’ve seen were already modified for the metal clamp, or were the later version that came with the metal clamp. @cuinrearview probably knows which clamp works for each situation. I’ve used a 372 clamp slipped underneath the plastic, clamping the boot only. If you have the metal clamp version, there is enough of the plastic bracket left to justify using a larger clamp on the outside of the plastic. I believe one from a 390 or 395 works. I’ve done it both ways, but I’m not certain which clamp I used when I went over the plastic
That’s what I was thinking.This is what I do. 1125 series Stihl or OE 372 clamp slipped under the plastic clamp with all of the extra tabs busted off or 385/390 or the PITA Husky one over the whole thing. If you modify the original plastic one for this just file the two ears off and leave the rest of the plastic ring.
Hasnt been an issue up to this point but im not just ham fisting them together either. Piston goes up and the cylinder shifts forward...lets me align the boot easy enough and slide the cylinder and piston back into position.Using that process is how the impulse nipple in the boot gets pinched off or not inserted completely.
About half of these that I get into have the impulse port pinched or kinked off.
You need to be able to physically feel the boot mating to the intake and hold them together while you install the clamp
Once you put the intake on and assemble as a sub-assembly you won't go back.Hasnt been an issue up to this point but im not just ham fisting them together either. Piston goes up and the cylinder shifts forward...lets me align the boot easy enough and slide the cylinder and piston back into position.
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I wasn't sure, was thinking of adding a third pipe [emoji1787]You think the muffler is open enough? [emoji23]
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Yesthis 346 top end was not drilled or tapped for a compression button. Is that normal?
Yes. Do the muffler first though.Is there any gains to be had with a timing advance on these? I've been told there is no gain on a 346.
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If he does it anymore it will be a open port[emoji1]Yes. Do the muffler first though.
The muffler is pretty well done lol [emoji1787]Yes. Do the muffler first though.
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