357xp questions

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Woodyjiw

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Is this what some consider the auto decompression valve on my 357?
I know I've seen people say to replace it and I want to make sure I'm on the same page.
I stopped into a Husky and Stihl shop and the guy told me it wasn't, he said it was an EPA saw and it was ment to pull unburnt gas and oil back into the cylinder to be burned. I'm not sure he was correct.
If the decomp is not working correctly would it cause the saw to idle fine but as soon as u try to throttle it bog down? It does that occasionally and it's very annoying!! Sometimes it runs perfectly and sometimes it bogs down and I have to feather the throttle to keep it from dying.
Please hit me with some knowledge as I don't want to mess up my saw.
If u need more info just say so.

Thanks Woody
8b1e02b4fbdbfaec1b1591650872849f.jpg
 
The three main problems with the 357xp were the plastic intake clamp failure, the HDA199 carb problem, and the auto-decomp abomination. Fix those issues and then it's a good saw! :)

Ditch the auto-decomp.

Replace the plastic intake clamp (if it has one) with a metal one. Husky sells a kit with a new bulkhead and cheesy metal clamp, but it's easy to just trim the old tabs and use an Oetiker clamp or a clamp from a 372 or larger Stihl. for a superior alternative anyway.

357xp Intakes.jpg

357xp Metal Clamp.jpg

And do this if it has an HDA199 carb...

 
The three main problems with the 357xp were the plastic intake clamp failure, the HDA199 carb problem, and the auto-decomp abomination. Fix those issues and then it's a good saw! :)

Ditch the auto-decomp.

Replace the plastic intake clamp (if it has one) with a metal one. Husky sells a kit with a new bulkhead and cheesy metal clamp, but it's easy to just trim the old tabs and use an Oetiker clamp or a clamp from a 372 or larger Stihl. for a superior alternative anyway.

View attachment 515237

View attachment 515239

And do this if it has an HDA199 carb...


Thanks a lot for the info!!
 
Take all that crap off the cylinder and put a regular de-comp valve on it. I think the end of that hose needs to be plugged when you do this. I did it to mine and it helped, along with drilling an eighth inch hole in the metering diaphragm cover on the 199 carb. Turns it into a runner..
Did u also replace the diaphragm to the lighter one or just drill the hole and that took care of the problem? I ask because tree monkey talks about it in his video but I wasn't sure if u could just drill the hole or if u had to do everything... Thanks again
 
Yes. The tan diaphragm and correct gaskets (and order) are the main keys along with ensuring there's a hole in the cover, (though I've also heard it doesn't matter either way). Some had em, some didn't. The following illustration may help as an aid to go along with the video..., if you can enlarge it some. The gasket order from the top right is what you want. Notice no hole in that cover.

HDA-19x Carb Diagram.jpg
 
You're right. Didn't mean to claim they were, though a good one is the exception. Some were actually built correctly with all the right parts. The diagram shows the subtle differences between the 19x carbs. It would have been very easy to combine the wrong parts (or even carb versions) for the different variations/applications..., which has obviously been the case in most of the ones needing "fixed". Wrong diaphragm, wrong gasket(s), wrong cover...
 
Lil update, I pulled the top plate off the carb and drilled an 1/8" hole in it. Then I used it Thursday and ran a tank through it. Seems to be better, didn't seem to have a bog during that run. Didn't make any other changes to the carb yet.
I also got my decomp button in the mail today so I replaced the auto decomp and pulled the 90° barb out and tight welded the hole in the plug and placed it back in the saw with a lil red loctite just to be on the safe side.
8cbd382f5f957dcf66155a1b3bf82594.jpg
 

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