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Woodyjiw

Woodyjiw

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188
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West Michigan
Looks like you have the plastic intake clamp. Don't neglect replacing that!
Yes sir, in the process, I checked with my dealer and they didn't have a 372 clamp in stock. One of the members mentioned using a Stihl clamp, does it matter what model saw it's off? There is a Stihl dealer 1.5 miles from me.. Thought I'd check there before I order one.
 
PogoInTheWoods

PogoInTheWoods

Don't forget about the alligators...
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Reportedly in the Area
A Stihl clamp would probably need to be from an 066/MS660. I've never been clear on what would actually be large enough diameter-wise.

Lots of guys use an an adjustable Oetiker clamp designed for clamping the small end of a CV joint boot. Has worked great for me and they're only a buck or so at NAPA if you have one nearby. There's a special tool for crimping it, but side cutters work just fine. Here's a link with part number and pic(s) May not look like it would seal well, but it can actually distort the intake if clamped too tight. They're only $1.50 a pop, so it doesn't hurt to buy a couple since you need to essentially destroy it by twisting the crimp to pop it loose if it needs to be replaced. Definitely a cheaper and superior solution than either the Husky or Stihl alternatives.

https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/CTD6865833/

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Woodyjiw

Woodyjiw

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
May 4, 2016
Messages
188
Location
West Michigan
A Stihl clamp would probably need to be from an 066/MS660. I've never been clear on what would actually be large enough diameter-wise.

Lots of guys use an an adjustable Oetiker clamp designed for clamping the small end of a CV joint boot. Has worked great for me and they're only a buck or so at NAPA if you have one nearby. There's a special tool for crimping it, but side cutters work just fine. Here's a link with part number and pic(s) May not look like it would seal well, but it can actually distort the intake if clamped too tight. They're only $1.50 a pop, so it doesn't hurt to buy a couple since you need to essentially destroy it by twisting the crimp to pop it loose if it needs to be replaced. Definitely a cheaper and superior solution than either the Husky or Stihl alternatives.

https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/CTD6865833/




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Thank you sir!!
 
Woodyjiw

Woodyjiw

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
May 4, 2016
Messages
188
Location
West Michigan
Trying to get a lil done on the 57 again. I picked up the carb kit and a new steel intake clamp.

Here's my question, do u have to pull the jug to remove the intake? It appears that way as I disassembled the carb and such to try to upgrade the clamp. I didn't reef on the intake trying to take it off. I thought I would ask before I messed it up and it costs me more cabbage..
 
Woodyjiw

Woodyjiw

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
May 4, 2016
Messages
188
Location
West Michigan
Update, I pulled the carb and upgraded the diaphragm and it seems to have cured my erratic idle and bogging issues. I didn't run a full tank through but it seems to be better!!

I didn't replace the plastic clamp yet as I have some work to do with the saw. It seems to be tight and I checked everything else as best I could around the intake and impulse line. Should be fine for now.
I figure if I'm going to pull the jug I might as well do a base gasket delete and a MM at the same time then retune the saw. I'd like to make sure the carb is working properly before I try anything else. This is the first saw I plan on "modding"...
 

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