I have a 359 that will not run consistantly. when I start it runs wide open fine(every time) but some times it idles for about 15 to 20 seconds then revs up then dies. After it dies one pull and it idles but if you try to open it up it bogs and stalls. My local dealer said he checked all the seals and gaskets with carb cleaner and there are no air leaks. Some times it runs like a new saw. Idles perfect revs up. I purchased a carb kit on ebay hopefuly this helps. Any help is appreciated.:bang:
359 trouble
- Thread starter frank7mm
- Start date
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kevlar
Addicted to ArboristSite
Low speed jet need some tuning?
kevlar
Addicted to ArboristSite
You are close now,It may be getting too much or not enough but I would back it off just a little see if that helps but just a tiny bit.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Revs up and dies is running out of gas in the carb. You say the Dealer checked seals and gaskets with carb cleaner? I understand what he was trying do, but that's a lousy and inconclusive test for marginal (intermittent) seals that are hidden behind flywheels and clutches.. The saw needs a pressure and vac test... I'd be looking for another dealer or saw tech.
Apart from some problem with the carb/fuel line etc, it sure sounds like impulse (e.g. a seal) is failing to me. Ir's important that you find the cause without substantially moving from factory setting of the carb. Don't assume it's running fine at other than idle - all that's happening is that you have gas pressure from vibration, or a little more impulse, but the saw can be leaning out.
Apart from some problem with the carb/fuel line etc, it sure sounds like impulse (e.g. a seal) is failing to me. Ir's important that you find the cause without substantially moving from factory setting of the carb. Don't assume it's running fine at other than idle - all that's happening is that you have gas pressure from vibration, or a little more impulse, but the saw can be leaning out.
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You might consider sending the saw to Bailey's if you do not have good local support. Here is a link for the 357XP / 359 workshop manual for you.
http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HWEN/HWEN2000/HWEN2000_1019117-26.pdf
http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HWEN/HWEN2000/HWEN2000_1019117-26.pdf
Looks like carb needs cleaning or adj.Check your pulse hose,the short U one about 1" long,could be torn or cut at the end.A pressure check would be a good bet also to be sure everything is sealed.The carb cleaner spray that the dealer have done is not enough if no pressure is applied at same time.
husky hustler
ArboristSite Member
How old is the saw? How many hours?
outdoortype
ArboristSite Guru
This is a long shot but....
Have you checked your tank vent? The fact that it stalls after it makes a few cuts maybe vapor locking? My 359 had a gray stiff looking impulse line that was kinked from the get go and the dealer replaced it with the standard black stuff. It wouldn't even start.
Have you checked your tank vent? The fact that it stalls after it makes a few cuts maybe vapor locking? My 359 had a gray stiff looking impulse line that was kinked from the get go and the dealer replaced it with the standard black stuff. It wouldn't even start.
joesawer
Addicted to ArboristSite
IMO a vacume test is the only way to eliminate the possibility of an air leak.
Justsaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
Check the carb boot for a crispy(slightly burnt or charred) hard edge around the cylinder mount. If it is crispy replace it.
Check the crappy carb boot clamp to make sure that it is still a good tight fit and holding the tightest position. If not use a boot clamp from a 066 or 2095.
Check the carb diaphragm isolator block(black plastic) to make sure that the insanely small pulse opening is clear and that the gasket is not swelled up and partially blocking it.
Make sure that the pulse line is open. Air filter through the boot, through the carb.
Good luck.
Check the crappy carb boot clamp to make sure that it is still a good tight fit and holding the tightest position. If not use a boot clamp from a 066 or 2095.
Check the carb diaphragm isolator block(black plastic) to make sure that the insanely small pulse opening is clear and that the gasket is not swelled up and partially blocking it.
Make sure that the pulse line is open. Air filter through the boot, through the carb.
Good luck.
walkerized don
ArboristSite Lurker
359 problem
Hello most of the people are steering you in the right direction fuel line pulse line right on the money.I have had at my dealership a few bum carbs on that model you should though pressureize the carb and you will find carbs almost all leak on fuel pump side of carb so chuck it and get another or try new gaskets or fuel pump plates
Hello most of the people are steering you in the right direction fuel line pulse line right on the money.I have had at my dealership a few bum carbs on that model you should though pressureize the carb and you will find carbs almost all leak on fuel pump side of carb so chuck it and get another or try new gaskets or fuel pump plates
