stantonizm
ArboristSite Member
What do you mean make the chain more aggressive? File the rakers down farther?
372XP Xtorq tuning and RPM
- Thread starter stantonizm
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Meh. Maybe some guys can. I still can't tell the difference enough to know for sure
When the teeth load the saw up the fourstroking sound will go away. Out of the cut it will return. You will NOT hear the limiter in thethe wood as rev come down Many can not tell the difference from limited disturbance and 'fourstroke' outside the cut.
EDIT mistake
EDIT mistake
Either a dull/improperly sharpened chain or high rakers. If the chain is sharp, either lower the file for more hook or file down the rakers. Especially with a strato saw like an xtorq. The added weight of a strato piston is hell on bearings. Mine was 2 years old and the crank bearings were shot
OP
first you said it was factory set at what read 13,400 and you said it had a reading of 10 grand in under load
which is perfect as you max power speed is 10,200
IDK how you turned it up a bit and all of a sudden its holding at 12,500 especially when it was at the limmet? Sounds odd.
If you are at say 13200 then the you only have a 700 rpm work load. You are making dust or its wrong?
first you said it was factory set at what read 13,400 and you said it had a reading of 10 grand in under load
which is perfect as you max power speed is 10,200
IDK how you turned it up a bit and all of a sudden its holding at 12,500 especially when it was at the limmet? Sounds odd.
If you are at say 13200 then the you only have a 700 rpm work load. You are making dust or its wrong?
Because of that Mike Lee told me they seem to like to live around 12.8
stantonizm
ArboristSite Member
Before I messed with it it was reading 13,400 no-load. Then I re-tuned it and set it at ~13000 no-load, which was around 10,000 in the wood. At that setting it was having spurts of a different sound when working hard (4-stroking I think) which led me to believe it was too rich. I leaned it out to where it was ~13,300 no-load,
which hit 12,500 in the wood.
If I can get home in time, I’ll try it again tomorrow with more precise number recording and video
Or a little more erl
D
Deleted member 117362
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Some coils are marked with limit on them, some are not. Some coils are blue, some are black. If not marked, lift plug wire boot at coil, is coils top ring, white, blue, or black? I never lean my saws out for that very last ten of a second, just a firewood hack and like to hear it 4 stroke, I guess. To each his own, that 372 with a sharp chain will handle anything I am cutting around my property. Enjoy!
stantonizm
ArboristSite Member
I messed with the saw and the tach again tonight. I think I had it way too lean. I turned it richer until the max RPM started dropping, which was about a quarter turn from where I had it. When I did it before I may have not been holding it open quite long enough.
Here’s a video of where I have it set now. I wasn’t able to test it in the cut tonight since it was dark and raining.
Here’s a video of where I have it set now. I wasn’t able to test it in the cut tonight since it was dark and raining.
Make sure the saw is hot when you set the tune. Set it right there after you make 4 or 5 long cuts. If it's not completely warmed up, it'll lean out once it is
stantonizm
ArboristSite Member
I let it run for at least 10 minutes with intermittent revving before I messed with it. Is it still four-stroking where I have it now? I’ll cut with it next time I have a chance and try to learn the difference in the sounds.
Trent Curtis
ArboristSite Guru
I think most would agree that even ported 372’s won’t hold 12,500 with the bar buried in hardwood. Unless the chain is dull, or your “buried” in a 6” log.
Tuning is simple...... throw away the tach!!!!!
Brad has a tuning video for tuning a limited coil
Saw. A quick you tube search would bring it right up. “Tuning limited coil chainsaw”.
Very simple...... richen the saw (in the cut) until it just starts the 4stroke (in the cut). Then lean it out just enough that it cleans up (in the cut). If you do this the saw will have a healthy 4 stroke when you take the weight off the bar/chain.
Throw away that tach- it’s hurting your understanding of “the tune”. Get on you tube, watch the vids and train your ear.
Learn the sounds so that you know when a saw is working too hard, a saw tuned right to the edge will melt down if run for a long period while making sawdust. I’ve replaced more than one piston that fell victim to a homeowner with a lean tune, coupled with a dull chain
You're going to have to tune that saw in the cut with it being rev limited. Tune it so rich that it won't run clean in the cut, then slowly lean it out until it does. That way you know it's rich rather than bouncing off the rev limiter.
Your tach isn't much help unless you're working with an unlimited coil. Even then it's best to tune in the cut.
