Peacock
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My 660 clogs easily compared to the 441!?!
390XP muffler mod finished
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My 660 clogs easily compared to the 441!?!
Sethro
Heathen
Looks real good, keep your bits sharp and don't even worry about starting a fire. I have 2 done in the same fashion and have had no problems
SawTroll
Information Collector
My 372xp works perfectly well for that, but some Stihl models probably are a tad better, because of a "cleaner" area under the sprocket cover.
Try to cut at a slight angle, to reduse the clogging.
joatmon
Addicted to ArboristSite
ST,
Thanks. I did solve the problem, no more 372 or 390. I saw no physical reason for this and was puzzled by this. I do tend to cut with a bit of at an angle, and I cut the same way with the 372, 390, 440 and 660.
Puzzled, but I have all my pieces,
joaT
B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
With cutting noodles, it is all about watching and feeling the chip flow. Different saws like slightly different techniques. And it depends on the wood, and sapwood can be different from heartwood. So the angle and pressure in the beginning of the cut is different than one well into the round.
Stihls overall tend to clear noodles better than Huskies, and the Husky 371/372 is okay but not the best noodler. I've haven't noodled with the 441, but of the saws I used,my favorite noodler is my 7900s. It took some practice to figure out the right chip stream (it is the least open under the cover of any of these saws), but now I love it. I can out noodle my 066 with them, surprisingly. (Although my 066 is a much better noodler than my 395.)
Interestingly to me, my 880 is not a really great noodler because there is a reinforcing rib under the side cover that impedes the long chips. It does okay of course because it has lots of power, but it has been optimized for cover strength and small chips.But if I were to have to make lots of noodle cuts with my 50 inch bar (which I don't do generally), I would be very tempted to get a used cover and grind away some of that long rib.
Two more thoughts, one if you monitor your chain tension faithfully and have good saw technique, removing the chain catcher on a noodling saw helps alot. And secondly since I noodle so much, I go for extreme performance in the cut. So during most of the cut I don't angle down much at all, as when all is going really right, the longer the chip the faster the cut. And since I am generally noodling to a marked line, by cutting horizontally I am cutting same on the front and back of the round, which is critical on big wood because I can't see the back of the round as I am cutting, and I need my different angle of cuts to meet up on the front and back for accurate block removal.
Also full skip square noodles the best.
I know this is all a repeat of what I've said before, but from my experience many cutters sort of mindlessly angle the saw down and go for it without learning to be sensitive to the chip flow. Once a person sees how fast noodling can go (especially on big wood), they usually can make some adjustments and pick up some extra speed themselves.
Stihls overall tend to clear noodles better than Huskies, and the Husky 371/372 is okay but not the best noodler. I've haven't noodled with the 441, but of the saws I used,my favorite noodler is my 7900s. It took some practice to figure out the right chip stream (it is the least open under the cover of any of these saws), but now I love it. I can out noodle my 066 with them, surprisingly. (Although my 066 is a much better noodler than my 395.)
Interestingly to me, my 880 is not a really great noodler because there is a reinforcing rib under the side cover that impedes the long chips. It does okay of course because it has lots of power, but it has been optimized for cover strength and small chips.But if I were to have to make lots of noodle cuts with my 50 inch bar (which I don't do generally), I would be very tempted to get a used cover and grind away some of that long rib.
Two more thoughts, one if you monitor your chain tension faithfully and have good saw technique, removing the chain catcher on a noodling saw helps alot. And secondly since I noodle so much, I go for extreme performance in the cut. So during most of the cut I don't angle down much at all, as when all is going really right, the longer the chip the faster the cut. And since I am generally noodling to a marked line, by cutting horizontally I am cutting same on the front and back of the round, which is critical on big wood because I can't see the back of the round as I am cutting, and I need my different angle of cuts to meet up on the front and back for accurate block removal.
Also full skip square noodles the best.
I know this is all a repeat of what I've said before, but from my experience many cutters sort of mindlessly angle the saw down and go for it without learning to be sensitive to the chip flow. Once a person sees how fast noodling can go (especially on big wood), they usually can make some adjustments and pick up some extra speed themselves.
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Wow, this is very interesting. My 660 was the saw to clog with noodles. 
I believe Turner summed it up well about how each saw likes a little different technique. Dads 365 clogged once but his chain was loose and somewhat dull. The chips got into the bar groove and stopped it instantly. He sharpened his chain, cleaned out the bar groove and not a problem after that. I like to keep a close eye on the cutter sharpness and the chain tension. Much easier on the saw.
I believe Turner summed it up well about how each saw likes a little different technique. Dads 365 clogged once but his chain was loose and somewhat dull. The chips got into the bar groove and stopped it instantly. He sharpened his chain, cleaned out the bar groove and not a problem after that. I like to keep a close eye on the cutter sharpness and the chain tension. Much easier on the saw.
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