40-50" wide CSM slabs - how do u plane/sand them?? can't use a planer??

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

diesel&coffee

ArboristSite Guru
Joined
Mar 17, 2008
Messages
511
Reaction score
68
Location
South Central Texas
G Day

New so don't toss tin cans! But say u slab a wide 35 - 50 inch oak.. Used a ripping chain... Now how in the heck do u go about leveling/smoothing out the
slab without a planer??
 
If you don't want an accurate thickness a floor sander is another option.

At the milling yard we have a long sander that will handle a 9 x 4 ft piece of lumber - still not working.
 
There are some good threads in here about how to use the router, but other options include using a floor sander, and using a power hand planer... Makita makes them from 3 to 12" wide. N1900b is the small option.
 
[video=youtube;8aWze4UM32U]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aWze4UM32U[/video]




Best way I know.
I made my own, but you can get the 'idea' by watching the video.


Scott
 
View attachment 174963View attachment 174964View attachment 174965

I built this 3'x4' crib and sled to level out a stump and some roots that I will put a glass top on for a table.

The crib is made of scrap wood I made the carriage out of baltic birch, about 4' long L's. Waxed up the carriage, took my router out of the table, and slid it along the carriage taking about 1/8-1/4" off each pass. 5 passes later it was all level. I will use the same method for some slabs I have.
 
I just grab a d/a sander 40 grit and sand the board. I know it seems like it would take forever but set of winding sticks and head phone will do the trick. Large slabs you will be off 40 grit pretty quick.
 
What's a d/a sander?

Dual action. I like the porter cable varible speed. Seem like a lot more work but I like to work the slab watching the twist and work that out. If you did a router set up seems to me it should not be condected to the slab in anyway. Maybe above the slab and level. Guess I am old school in this thinking if I have a slab 40-50 inchs I want my hands and eyes on it every step of the way. If it take me 40 hrs I am ok with that.

You may take a 1/4 off sanding router set-up seems like you could count on loosing atleast 1/2-3/4 inch after sanding to. Thats alot on a board that nice.
 
Last edited:
Dual action. I like the porter cable varible speed. Seem like a lot more work but I like to work the slab watching the twist and work that out. If you did a router set up seems to me it should not be condected to the slab in anyway. Maybe above the slab and level. Guess I am old school in this thinking if I have a slab 40-50 inchs I want my hands and eyes on it every step of the way. If it take me 40 hrs I am ok with that.

I have a router jig. I use it when they are really bad. For the ones that are pretty good I have been using a angle grinder with a sanding disc. It's actually pretty fast. The only problem is it makes a ton of fine dust.
 
I have a router jig. I use it when they are really bad. For the ones that are pretty good I have been using a angle grinder with a sanding disc. It's actually pretty fast. The only problem is it makes a ton of fine dust.

I have a 9 inch thats older than I am. Stop doing that just seem the finnish to me is better when its a d/a from start to finnish. I would pull it out again if I had to lol. I Think Iam just a lot better at chain sharpeining and I will put a fresh chain on every slab if there that big. Take all the time in the world for a big slab like that.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top