5 saws not passing oil to chain HELP PLEASE

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I would think that ATF would be way too thin with a tendency to fly off the end of the bar and fail to lubricate wherre it is needed the most.
...because it would. CHAIN Oil is a type of petrolueum distallate. Its visocity is by design. Its the proper oil for the job......and any "invented" substitutes are of an odd, albiet creative mind.

Used engine oil gets re-cycled ONLY.

Transmission "FLUID" is intended to be used as a Hydraulic fluid........not a hi-tack lubricant.

Can we please close this thread.
 
I agree, bit with that said my dad bought me a Stihl 029 when Inwas 14. I fluffed that saw for 5 years with rocked out chains and zero maintenance or tuning without an issue.
I used a 025 from 2002 until 2020. Heated my house with it for several years. Never an issue. The only adjustment to the carb was to lower the idle. Fresh 91 oct. fuel stihl oil and a few new spark plugs.
 
...because it would. CHAIN Oil is a type of petrolueum distallate. Its visocity is by design. Its the proper oil for the job......and any "invented" substitutes are of an odd, albiet creative mind.

Used engine oil gets re-cycled ONLY.

Transmission "FLUID" is intended to be used as a Hydraulic fluid........not a hi-tack lubricant.

Can we please close this thread.
Site member Walt Galer, who was a engineer for Windsor claimed that Hydraulic oil worked better than thick bar oil.
I don't known if that was true, but Indo know guys use Hydro oil for decades with no apparent issues.
 
...because it would. CHAIN Oil is a type of petrolueum distallate. Its visocity is by design. Its the proper oil for the job......and any "invented" substitutes are of an odd, albiet creative mind.

Used engine oil gets re-cycled ONLY.

Transmission "FLUID"
is intended to be used as a Hydraulic fluid........not a hi-tack lubricant.

Can we please close this thread.

SHTF you'll be using both. And your bar wont suffer much.
 
I used a 025 from 2002 until 2020. Heated my house with it for several years. Never an issue. The only adjustment to the carb was to lower the idle. Fresh 91 oct. fuel stihl oil and a few new spark plugs.
Spoken like a dedicated woodsman. Your care of your chainsaw should be the routine standard. Hopefully it will, going forward.Great comment!
 
I've read about saw shops that buy hydraulic oil by the 55 gallon drum, rebottle it into gallon jugs in the back, then sell it by the gallon as their house brand bar oil. No issues.
"I've read" is the same as, I have nothing to do but keyboard my boredom......we are all entitled to our opinion; just NOT entitled to our own facts.
 
Might also point out that bar oilnis all over the place in regards to viscosity and tackiness.
As we all know, fellas, here are 2 types of the product. The quality is based on the mfger. I have no preference, as paper labels from several different brands, can be applied to thousands of the same jug. I am presently using ECHO, which is called and "all-season"?

SUMMER-grade bar oil is heavy,with an additional added amount (to std) , of tack.

WINTER bar oil is thin, tacky all the same, but thin. Without the tack, it slings/aprays well into the weeds.... Hence the need for real oil. Its our environment, where those trees grow....

I'd try any work-around to Winter oil for my bars, IF someone could make a suggestion that doesn't include used oil, and comes in a the 3.50 qt. / $14 a gallon.

Spraying the Earth with oil seems to be the result of thrifty woodsman. Bar oil is less costly, than guide bars and the noses.......and the chain, which doesn't have a brain, does the work.
 
Might also point out that bar oilnis all over the place in regards to viscosity and tackiness.
Thats correct. All the more reason to buy a jug that says, Chainsaw Bar Oil on it. The tack property of a given brand is easily found on the OSHA label...and its in there. I like the way this thread has blossumed from using free stuff, to maintaining our chainsaws, with the commonsense the operation demands.
 
As we all know, fellas, here are 2 types of the product. The quality is based on the mfger. I have no preference, as paper labels from several different brands, can be applied to thousands of the same jug. I am presently using ECHO, which is called and "all-season"?

SUMMER-grade bar oil is heavy,with an additional added amount (to std) , of tack.

WINTER bar oil is thin, tacky all the same, but thin. Without the tack, it slings/aprays well into the weeds.... Hence the need for real oil. Its our environment, where those trees grow....

I'd try any work-around to Winter oil for my bars, IF someone could make a suggestion that doesn't include used oil, and comes in a the 3.50 qt. / $14 a gallon.

Spraying the Earth with oil seems to be the result of thrifty woodsman. Bar oil is less costly, than guide bars and the noses.......and the chain, which doesn't have a brain, does the work.
Farm and fleet had mystic bar oil for $7.00 gal while back, bit on the thin side of sumer only, but tad thicker then pisswater winter stuff. I've bought a few cases of it. Been using it without any issues.
 
As we all know, fellas, here are 2 types of the product. The quality is based on the mfger. I have no preference, as paper labels from several different brands, can be applied to thousands of the same jug. I am presently using ECHO, which is called and "all-season"?

SUMMER-grade bar oil is heavy,with an additional added amount (to std) , of tack.

WINTER bar oil is thin, tacky all the same, but thin. Without the tack, it slings/aprays well into the weeds.... Hence the need for real oil. Its our environment, where those trees grow....

I'd try any work-around to Winter oil for my bars, IF someone could make a suggestion that doesn't include used oil, and comes in a the 3.50 qt. / $14 a gallon.

Spraying the Earth with oil seems to be the result of thrifty woodsman. Bar oil is less costly, than guide bars and the noses.......and the chain, which doesn't have a brain, does the work.
summer winter, now keep in mind its fairly mild around here, but also, the oil reservoir is under the exhaust... it warms up some not like a lot but some so I question the need for "winter" weight oil, if its flowing, its flowing, and honestly a thicker oil lasts longer and works better so you end up using less over all
The thin S that most folks use just runs out the end of the bar anyway, the thicker stuff at least makes a valiant attempt at circling back to the drive sprocket. Hence the tackifying agents help the lube stick to the chain and actually do some good.

BTW Hydro fluid is way thinner then most bar oils, maybe the tractor trans stuff would work but certainly not aw-46 or aw-32, it also doesn't have any tackifiers, and is insanely more expensive then just bar oil. Anybody using it is definitely not someone to take financial advice from.
 
No I can assure you it's flush. But again it's 5 saws nkt just this one. I have this 170, a 180 an 017 a 250 and 2 025s currently with issues
My advice would be to get rid of those Stihls and buy a good saw like an Echo, and forget all these problems, I've read about 4 of the 9 pages of this, and sir/neighbor in my opinion you are the "prick" who won't listen to what the people who know something are trying tell (help) you. Personally I'm done reading any more about this. Good luck to you.
ladnaR
 
My advice would be to get rid of those Stihls and buy a good saw like an Echo, and forget all these problems, I've read about 4 of the 9 pages of this, and sir/neighbor in my opinion you are the "prick" who won't listen to what the people who know something are trying tell (help) you. Personally I'm done reading any more about this. Good luck to you.
ladnaR
Well thanks for being another *******. In my opinion you didn't read the MOST IMPORTANT PART WHICH WAS WHAT I ALREADY DIAGNOSED PRICK and that I ASKED A VERY SPECIFIC QUESTION PRICK so have a nice day neighbor prick
 
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