562 leaking bar oil from crankcase

[r1stgei]

Well it looks like this new saw is gonna be more work than planned. Lol.

I have read online the 5 bolt cases leak.... well this saw is a 5 bolt case and it leaks like a bastard from under the muffler. It didn’t help the last owner used motor oil for bar oil.

I was thinking of just cracking the case open and changing the gasket. Should I bother , get a 6 bolt case with the bearings? I’m in Canada btw.

Thanks gents

 

[Deleted member 117362]

New gasket and sealant has worked several times. As I remember new bottom end complete case is reasonable.

 

[r1stgei]

New gasket and sealant has worked several times. As I remember new bottom end complete case is reasonable.

Do you have a part number for a new bottom end? If I choose to replace gasket what , am I applying the gasket and a sealant? What do you recommend?

Thanks a bunch by the way

 

[r1stgei]

New gasket and sealant has worked several times. As I remember new bottom end complete case is reasonable.

Do you have a part number for a new bottom end? If I choose to replace gasket what , am I applying the gasket and a sealant? What do you recommend?

Thanks a bunch by the way

 

[Deleted member 117362]

575380213 is part number. List price is $209. That gasket will be ruined, oil soaked, I place Motoseal on both sides of gasket and use blue thread locker on case bolts. Others may do it differently.

 

[Haironyourchest]

Why not flush the oil chamber really thoroughly, and smear some high quality polymer sealant on the inside, to seal the join?

 

[Deleted member 117362]

Why not flush the oil chamber really thoroughly, and smear some high quality polymer sealant on the inside, to seal the join?

That's a cover-up, not a fix. Would you want to purchase that saw, after that repair? Vibration and heat cycles, I would not.

 

[backhoelover]

Need to get updated care bolts too

 

[Haironyourchest]

That's a cover-up, not a fix. Would you want to purchase that saw, after that repair? Vibration and heat cycles, I would not.

Nowhere in the thread did I read that you intend to sell the saw. You asked if you ought to bother with the full repair, in my opinion, no you shouldn't. It's just an oil leak (assuming you are confident its only that, and everything else is ok). A lot of saws leak oil. Part of life. There are polymers for everything, heat resistant, flex resistant, chem resistant etc. People have patched engine blocks with jb weld that have withstood the test of time.

 

[r1stgei]

Nowhere in the thread did I read that you intend to sell the saw. You asked if you ought to bother with the full repair, in my opinion, no you shouldn't. It's just an oil leak (assuming you are confident its only that, and everything else is ok). A lot of saws leak oil. Part of life. There are polymers for everything, heat resistant, flex resistant, chem resistant etc. People have patched engine blocks with jb weld that have withstood the test of time.

Not selling it. Gonna run the bugger all season. It’s not my primary saw. It’s not gonna be even my backups backup.

I got it for 125$. I don’t see the value in replacing the case. I think I’m gonna split the case and replace the gasket... that’s where I’m leaning now anyhow.

 

[Deleted member 117362]

Not selling it. Gonna run the bugger all season. It’s not my primary saw. It’s not gonna be even my backups backup.

I got it for 125$. I don’t see the value in replacing the case. I think I’m gonna split the case and replace the gasket... that’s where I’m leaning now anyhow.

Agree, not that hard to work on. Just make sure you reinstall carb correct. Choke rod, carb in boot and linkage. Just take a picture before you start. Had a moment once and hooked color coded wires in handle up wrong, only 3 wires. Saw would run, but not rev. My bad.

 

[Brent Nowell]

Why not flush the oil chamber really thoroughly, and smear some high quality polymer sealant on the inside, to seal the join?

How you gonna reach it properly?

I have seen this issue fixed by re-sealing the cases with hondaband or 1184 with the 5 bolt cases. You do not need to buy the new cases.

think of it this way, you gotta split em anyways why spend more than you have to.

 

[Brent Nowell]

Another note, make your life easier and install the carb and intake on the jug FIRST before you bolt the head back on. Same goes for disassemmbly.
Remove fuel lines, wiring harness, throttle then push the two rubber mounts away and up from the pins that hold them.