562xp carb issues resolved? ?

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nitehawk55

nitehawk55

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My Husky dealer has seen some small redesigns in the throttle plate and this has cured bogging in a couple 562's customers were complaining about a couple years ago .
Of course Husky was slow to admit to him there was a problem when he pushed for answers from the Tech dept .
 

CJ1

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Find a good sized tree and rip long ways. As far as this working, I still have my doubts. Just like the rumor they have been fixed. We have 2 of the first ones and they run great. The ones I own and run are all in various form of bogging/hard start/no start issues. Master Mind has my modded saw almost acceptable with just a slight bog/hesitation at the hit of the throttle. I don't want to mess with it for fear of having the old issues back and Randy should not have to deal with this POS issue that some do not believe exists. The simple fix for me is going to be another 372xpg. CJ
 
SawTroll

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Well, mine has a pretty bad stumble off idle, and will sometimes die if I set it down for more than 30 (or so) seconds. I haven't checked to see which carb I have, but it is annoying as hell, and pretty much makes me hate running the damn thing.

I don't have a manual. Can anyone clue me in on how to fix this? Or is it just time for a new carb?

The manual is on Huskys website - but you may of course have one of the bad carbs.

The current IPLs tell me that the EL-46 was used 2012 week 14 to 2014 week 14.
 
SawTroll

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Run it 3 to 5 minutes wide open in the cut with out letting off the trigger that resets the computer.
Problem is it's usually hard for most to find something large enough to do this reset . 5 minutes in a cut is a long time !

As I read it, it doesn't have to be just one cut, as that isn't practical - just normal full throttle cutting in decent size wood. You do of course let off the trigger between the cuts.
 
CentaurG2

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I have a 562xp from 2011. Only major difference I can find from a 372xp is that it takes 2 pulls to start when it is warm. Never set or reset the saw. Just put mix and oil in it and ran it like I borrowed it from my brother in law. One of the best saws I have ever owned and it gets used/abused constantly.
 
mesupra

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The lighter weight than a 372 appeals to me for running a 20" bar. The last 562 was a old one and I had ran great and I just sold my 2171 so I need a replacement.
 
big hank

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I have a late 2014 562xp and it runs like a raped ape. Spent a year using it 7-8 hours a day thinning.. pretty hard on a saw..
Clutch went out a month or so after I got it, but it was under warranty so it wasn't a big deal.
Only real problem I've had is that after a 15+minute break when it's "lukewarm," its a real pain to start...
 
CrufflerJJ

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I have a late 2014 562xp and it runs like a raped ape. Spent a year using it 7-8 hours a day thinning.. pretty hard on a saw..
Clutch went out a month or so after I got it, but it was under warranty so it wasn't a big deal.
Only real problem I've had is that after a 15+minute break when it's "lukewarm," its a real pain to start...

Have you tried the following for starting your saw when "hot"?
- Pump fuel purge bulb a few times
- Flip choke to upper position, then drop it back down to the middle (run) position
- DO NOT push in decompression valve

Pull 1-2 times.

Once I started doing it this way (especially NOT using the decomp valve for a hot start), my 562XP starts with 1 pull when warm/hot.
 
big hank

big hank

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Have you tried the following for starting your saw when "hot"?
- Pump fuel purge bulb a few times
- Flip choke to upper position, then drop it back down to the middle (run) position
- DO NOT push in decompression valve

Pull 1-2 times.

Once I started doing it this way (especially NOT using the decomp valve for a hot start), my 562XP starts with 1 pull when warm/hot.
Yup I do that when it's hot. My saw has problems starting when it's not quite hot and not quite cold
 

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