That would be a relief if it is an easy fix.
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562xp Hot start?
- Thread starter Andyshine77
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I am very interested in you video. I subscribe to your youtube channel.
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My Stihl 290 has this problem and in cool temps too. Fast idle helps. I've also recently tuned up the low speed jet and upped the idle a bit, but have not tested it.
More than once, while cutting on hot days the only saws that would not start hot were two 562's and a partner 5000+. 026, 028s, 036 ms460, husqvarna 346, 268, 262 371 no trouble same fuel, run just as hard. Fuel boiling in the metal fuel tank that is part of the crankcase on the 5000+. The 562's primers were dry and did not work, the carbs were dry and noticeably very hot.
I have just spent the last two hours sweating my but off. (It needs it) trying to get the 6100 to vapor lock. I will upload a video with the results. Granted I couldn't use the same fuel the temp and humidity are not exact but I still gave it a valiant effort.
Termite
Time To Launch
But I sure as hell ain't going to do that.
Meh, I've been doing other projects so I haven't been able to run a saw for a bit, otherwise I would have been cutting today. I would have run the last Poulan I put together specifically with this problem in mind just to see how it worked. I also had a spare old top cover that I added some ventilation to, although that will cause the filter to clog faster. Still, there's not much need for a filter if it won't start!
porsche965
Addicted to ArboristSite
I won't be aggravated anymore with Husky and hot temps. They are great under 80 or so. Still own them and enjoy running Husky but use alternatives when it gets hot.
Clearly the 562 has an issue, but I'm still curious about why. The AT system gets blamed, but that seems to be a gut reaction without much evidence. How are other AT/MT saws working in the heat? The 562 is certainly not the only feedback carb saw.
what happens if you purge the fuel through as its idling? will the cooler fuel in the tank cool the lines near the hot spots enough ?
The Echo started with one pull in the video. To be fair, later on I repeated the test and the saw took 5 pulls and the use of the choke to fire up, and the saw would not accelerate until it idled for about 20 seconds, after that the saw ran just fine. So the heat is having some effect on the Echo, but nothing like the 562, which was useless until it cooled down. Again the fuel is fresh 91 octane E-free.
Tag
Edit: I truly hope you guys find a way to figure this out. Honestly, in 2016...Still having this problem is a f...ing joke. For those in and around my age group who owned dirt bikes as kids, you're very familiar with hard to start 2 stoke engines. It was without a doubt the BANE of our childhood. Lol!
Any new anything that you have to speak softly too, rub just right, and say 3 hail Mary's just to start no longer has any place in my life. Sell that turd and save yourself the endless frustration of having to remember to make sure the Moon and Sun are at just the right angle before using.
-Pat
Edit: I truly hope you guys find a way to figure this out. Honestly, in 2016...Still having this problem is a f...ing joke. For those in and around my age group who owned dirt bikes as kids, you're very familiar with hard to start 2 stoke engines. It was without a doubt the BANE of our childhood. Lol!
Any new anything that you have to speak softly too, rub just right, and say 3 hail Mary's just to start no longer has any place in my life. Sell that turd and save yourself the endless frustration of having to remember to make sure the Moon and Sun are at just the right angle before using.
-Pat
I can tell you the Echo ran much cooler, you could touch the mag case for as long as you wanted, the 562 was vert hot. I need to get an IR Thermometer!
Haha love it!!
The saw did sound a little lean on the restart, similar to the echo on the second go around.
When you release the bulb it sucks fuel out of the carb fuel well, which disturbs the pressure there and can stall it at idle.
Sounds like it was getting very close to vapor lock. Keep in mind that state change is not a linear process, it's a threshold effect. Once you get to boiling it's all over, but just below that it can be fine.
OK, but that is exterior surfaces. The heat source is inside (cylinder, muffler). One could make the argument that if the saw is hotter outside it's doing a better job moving heat from inside to out. You would indeed need a temperature measurement of the carb to be sure. I think the evidence is that it's probably hotter inside, but it may not be as extreme as it seems from touching the case.
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I wonder if the strato air inlet acts as a heat duct to bring cylinder heat to the carb area? With a non-strato the carb is connected to the case, which will be cooler and have fuel. The air inlets for a strato connect to the hot cylinder to the air valve, although that is supposed to be closed. I have not noticed that my GZ4000's are any more or less prone to vapor lock, but it is a different design where the air valve is bakelite and part of the carb mount.
Yep.
Thornton
40:1 wide open like a chicken on a chain
Hope you get it figured out such a awesome saw. We use saws quite a bit for misc. trimming and clearing during the summer around here and it rarely gets under 90 during the day.
Cycledude
ArboristSite Operative
My 16 month old 562 has done that a bunch of times and I wish I knew a good way to fix it. Husqvarna put a new carb on it under warranty and the saw definitely has more power with the new carb and starts a little better when hot . I have kinda learned not to get the saw so hot or avoid shutting it off if it's real hot, do some lighter cutting for a few minutes before shutting it off seems to help. Like someone else said I think the EPA and lean auto tune are a big part of the issue, as long as I don't shut the saw off extra hot everything is fine, other than the hard hot start issue when the saw is extra hot I love the 562.
