661 with maxflow in cold weather......?

[Finnrpm]

Hi to all!

I have 661 with maxflow filter kit. Have not used it in cold weather ( meaning below freezing temps ).

Usually i move the cold weather baffle to " winter " position around 5 deg. celsius ( = 41 deg. F ).
Maxflow has no baffle, so do i need to use duct tape to winterize my maxflow kit?

Experiences with maxflow kits in cold weather would be highly appreciated.

RV

 

[Westboastfaller]

That's way too warn to be moving gates. I know Husqvarna temps are -5 c to then restrict the air and -15 to change the air scoop to flow into the cylinder side then draw in from a gate in the wall. I'm pretty sure the xtorq doesn't even have the gate or come with their winter air scoop. They just give you the plastic starter cover restrictor. Duct tape is better.
The biggest thing is keeping snow out. If you are working it then restrictions are not that big of a deal.
When you are driving around with It on a quad or side-by-side or Argo and it's in the -40 range and you are trying to keep it running all day between little bits of cutting then it won't be happy. That's when the winter gate and air resistance are can help a bit but the scoop still needed heat from a hot cylinder. Don't you have the stock filter?

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

I've never bothered with the winter or summer thing on any of my saws. Stays on "summer" year round. Hasn't given any issues, even at -30*. Lots of saws don't even have such a thing.

 

[Finnrpm]

That's way too warn to be moving gates. I know Husqvarna temps are -5 c to then restrict the air and -15 to change the air scoop to flow into the cylinder side then draw in from a gate in the wall. I'm pretty sure the xtorq doesn't even have the gate or come with their winter air scoop. They just give you the plastic starter cover restrictor. Duce tape is better.
The biggest thing is keeping snow out. If you are working it then restrictions are not that big of a deal.
When you are driving around with It on a quad or side-by-side or Argo and it's in the -40 range and you are trying to keep it running all day between little bits of cutting then it won't be happy. That's when the winter gate and air resistance are needed most. Don't you have the stock filter?

Yes i do have the stock filter and cover. I'm just curious if i could run it with the maxflow kit. Better take the stock setup for backup.
RV

 

[Westboastfaller]

It's pointless is you have any intentions of restricting flow from the side cover at any point I would think? Which one is better for powder snow? I realize you may be able too tape it off. Sounds like the stock one may be better. Any taping, I would do it at night. or just before. Warm your tape up. Try keep away from fires and especially gas exhaust pipe on trucks. You will burn your saw up is you mess with that winter gate in that warm of weather.

 

[schmauster]

I would make learning to tune the high end a priority. I just tweak and adjust the high end quickly before cutting in different conditions. A very valuable tool to have

 

[2dogs]

It was 101 degrees F today. Do you want my opinion?

 

[schmauster]

Along with using the gate as he has been. I live in California so i never use my winter gate personally... if its under freezing im not out there cutting wood anyways.

 

[Finnrpm]

It's pointless is you have any intentions of restricting flow from the side cover at any point I would think? Which one is better for powder snow? I realize you may be able too tape it off. Sounds like the stock one may be better. Any taping, I would do it at night. or just before. Warm your tape up. Try keep away from fires and especially gas exhaust pipe on trucks. You will burn your saw up is you mess with that winter gate in that warm of weather.

My plan was to put tape only to a small portion on the filter cover gap, so some non frozen air would be guided to the foam filter. Not planning to duct tape any portion of the recoil side, if needed will get the cover plate 1144 080 7500 for powder snow.
RV

 

[Finnrpm]

I would make learning to tune the high end a priority. I just tweak and adjust the high end quickly before cutting in different conditions. A very valuable tool to have

My mistake, saw is actually 661 C-M...........

Along with using the gate as he has been. I live in California so i never use my winter gate personally... if its under freezing im not out there cutting wood anyways.

Over here most cutting is done between november and april. Easier to pull logs out from woods at winter, it's a tradition i think.......

RV

 

[Finnrpm]

It was 101 degrees F today. Do you want my opinion?

 

[Westboastfaller]

So I just googled 661 max flow images and ended up watching a comparison video. OK I thought maybe the max flow left it more exposed. Seems the stock one was dirty after one tank and the max flow seals better & has the foam band. That's definitely what you want for powder.
IDK what kind of cutting you are doing. If you are on the landing bucking steady then starter cover air restrictors/snow fence won't be necessary. It's for brushing and falling and rookies that don't kick snow aside and keep setting the saw on its belly and not it's side.
Even at that they are not as good as duct tape. Tape can be place much better and is easy to remove on the fly.

 

[Finnrpm]

Thank you for the information. Cutting is mainly bucking (firewood). I believe that powder will not be a problem, as you said kick it aside! Will carry duct tape & oem filter/filter cover when cutting.
Will report back if having problems with this setup.
RV

 

[Westboastfaller]

If you are steady bucking then don't ever mess with winter mode.
You will be sorry real fast.

10 yrs ago November, I fried my Simonized 372 steady bucking in Beetle infested pine. I was getting paid by the tree Falling bucking and burning them.
I was just laying on the dogs, snapping of rounds. I can always tell right away by certain waves of air coming off the saw if something isn't right. Not this time. It was -36c .
I had the cylinder fins plugged with
wet alder from a previous job. it was on fire when I put it down.
The previous job was 38 c / 100 f and it was fine...about killed me though.
I learnt my lesson. I put the heat gun on it every buck..lol (no I don't)
I don't neglect those thing anymore.
So really we can't get caught up in temps. Your working engine will surely enjoy that cold air.

Be smarter than me and let 'someone else'pay for the education.

Sure check back, I have a world of really life knowledge learnt from many of my real life mess ups.

 

[redbull660]

hoory sheet

OK! only time you NEED to change to the winter setting (ie. you WANT warm air into the carb) is if you have a carb icing problem. And that can happen even at say 65 degrees out.

Want to warm up the carb? Stand the saw on the tip of the bar. Heat will rise up from the jug. (heat rises)

cold air = make saw run better.

carb icing isn't caused by just cold air.


and because of the design of the max flow, I honestly think you would encounter LESS problems than with the sithl design.

 

[Westboastfaller]

That's Westboaster 's "poor man's heated carb" you speak of. (Patent Pending)
Unfortunately its hard to get poor people to give me money when they know the concept. Fortunately, they only know the concept.

Messing with heat without a constant can be a slippery slippery slope.

 

[Little Al]

Unless you're kicking up clouds of powder snow I don't think you will have a problem It's a try & see setup & if the saw is standing a while keep it standing after running with the bar vertical facing down careful if resting on the chain/bar tip

 

[Westboastfaller]

I better step up my game. 'Pitchman' Billy Mays showed up the other day for oxi clean^^



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