925 tune up

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dlr123

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FOR ALL YOU PRO MECINICS, some of you may of heard this b4 I rebuilt a homie 925 with a new cylinder ( oem ) aftermarket piston which we had to take a little metal off of the under side (inside of the skirt) for it to clear the rod. the crank is tight everything looks good spark appears good, I put a kit in the carb and cleaned it, pulled the gas filter and blew thru it seems to be open gas line is stiff but doesn't appear cracked , spark plug is an ngk has purple ish spark. saw runs and starts good but ONLY RUNS AT HALF OR 5/8S THROTTLE has power there but @ WOT boggs out and loses all power sounds like a carb problem / gas ?? has new mix at 32/1 premium smokes a little as it should ?? PLEASE HELP thanks guys Don:chainsaw:
 
Sounds like a fuel issue of some sort. If it's losing power wide-open (I'm assuming while cutting?), that sounds like it's running lean on the High jet. You didn't mention if it's holding an idle properly and throttling up smoothly, but if it is, then that should more or less rule out an air leak in the fuel lines or crank seals. When you say the fuel line is "open", do you mean that you can blow on the intake line and blow right through the carb? Because this should be impossible unless you're also pressing on the diaphragm to open the valve inside the carb. If this is the case, then the saw is getting WAY too much gas, but I can't believe you'd even get it to start under this condition. If it's any help, the way I tune most carbs is as follows:

-turn both jet screws out about 1 turn
-start the saw, and tune the High jet to where it sounds proper (unless you have a tach)
-tune the Low jet so that the engine accelerates smoothly to top throttle
-turn the Idle adjustment screw so that the engine holds a smooth idle without the chain jumping forward

I don't know if you've checked THIS PAGE out, it has pretty much all the stats for that saw. It says your spark plug should be a Champion CJ-6 or equivalent - check that yours is right, because the wrong one can cause all sorts of weird problems. If your coil was bad, the saw would likely run really rough or quit altogether, and/or be hard to re-start, after it gets hot.

The only other possibilities I can think of are corroded or bent reed valves, or maybe the aftermarket piston is clearing the ports differently or something. Unless that saw has a governor, my 090 will not hit top RPM when out of the cut due to the governor, but it doesn't affect the RPMs and power when cutting.
 
Bmorgan sounds like he is on the right track there... if you post this over on the chainsaw section you will get other input also.

When I worked as a logger for the Glatfelter Pulpwood early 80's, that 925 was our main work saw. Tuned up and with a sharp chain it would go through 15 inch dia loblolly pine as fast as you could push it through the wood. Great saw. I'd like to say it was as powerful as my Husky 395, but it was so long ago that I used one that I couldn't be sure anymore.
 
925

thanks for that guys I did a little checking and did a compression check I got 160lbs and yes I only blew thru the fuel filter with my mouth I will try to tune it one more time as was reccommended here. I have to look for that formum you talked about I dont' have a lot of time for pc and tv and wifes not interested in chainsaws ?? Thanks again for the input. Don
 

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