Accessing tall palms without gaffs

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treeclimber165

Member A.K.A Skwerl
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I cannot remember which thread it was in, but I wanted to let everyone know that Budroe's idea probably saved my butt today. As he explained, I set a rope through the head of a tall queen palm and tied it off to the trunk of another tree nearby. I then tied in to the other end using the SRT method. I was able to get all the way up and stand beside the head to trim out the big unopened seed pods without trying to work underneath them- good thing because one can weigh up to 100 lbs or so. I'm also very thankful that I was tied in with more than a lanyard when a RAT jumped out and landed on my arm! He was high-tailing it outta there, but so was my brand new saw! I dropped my saw from about 25' and it landed on top of a 6' concrete block wall/ fence and cracked the muffler cover. I'm just grateful it wasn't my head landing on that wall!

Thanks Budroe! I owe ya one!
:angel:
 
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Brian, I am just curious about something.... Don't those sharp palm fronds ever put little cuts in your climbing gear? How exactly DO you prune a palm tree? I have never had to. They don't like the new england snow much.
 
Eric-
Not all palms have thorns on the fronds. The nice thing about this method is that the rope is stationary instead of sliding back and forth through the head as you move. I never use my newest or nicest rope for palm trees, usually the oldest line I have that is still categorized as a lifeline.
Trimming palms is basically 2 different steps. 1 is trimming the dead fronds, seed pods and usually several green fronds until the canopy is at the specified angle. This is usually specified as '10-2' or '9-3'. If you imagine a clock face and where the numbers are on the clock, that corresponds to the desired or specified angle of the remaining fronds. Some people want their palms trimmed to '11-1', but I won't do it. It takes too much green off the palm and can stunt growth and lead to declining health of the palm.
With thorned palms like Washingtonians, the secret is to cut the fronds behind the last thorns. Otherwise, next year's boots will have those thorns on them. It's bad enough trimming the thorned fronds but it really sucks when the guy who trimmed them last year leaves 4" thorny stubs from all his cuts. Makes it very difficult to make the next cuts without getting stabbed.

Second step is cleaning up the loose and hanging 'boots' at the bottom of the head.This is usually where the critters live. Cut away all the loose crap until you have a nicely shaped and tight head. By next year more boots will be loose and those pretty green fronds will be brown and hanging straight down. Then you get to trim it again. :rolleyes:

Mike- If I ever get a $600 Greffardized climbing saw, I'll use one of those stupid saw lanyards that get in your way and snag limbs all the time. That's part of the reason I use a $260 climbing saw. :D
 
right on!!!!!!

reading this thread has me totally jazzed!!!!!
i'm psyched that you are using the SRT to gain
access into those big palms!!! used the same
method this morning on 2 40' plus washies!!!!
i'm gaining more and more confidence w/ the taller palms
and i'm getting addicted to the rush off coming
down fast on my petzl stop!!!! there's some 70'
plus washingtonia's in town that i'd like to climb:D
man i love this stuff!!!!
budroe:cool:
p.s. i see a longer hank of blue streak in my future;)
 
Budroe,
The Blue Streak is nice and strong, but it's about the heaviest arbo rope available. I like it for most trimming work under 40'-50' and for removals but prefer a lighter rope for tall stuff. The Fly is fantastic and works great with mechanical devices like ascenders but may not wear as well. The Safety Blue is priced right, handles great, wears well and is lighter than Blue Streak. It's also got a great weight rating at 7700# compared to 6000# for Fly and 8100# for Blue Streak.
Fly weighs about 6lb per 100'. Safety Blue is just over 7lbs and I think Blue Streak is about 8lbs. Different colors help with quick identification and you may prefer different ropes for different tasks. Heck buy one of each! :p
 
i've also got some high vee which i love!!!
the thing about the blue streak is that it's
taking a beating and is going strong.....
i use it on just about every climb and it
handles like a champ!!!! i'm using
my cmi tooth cammed ascenders on it w/out
a snag!!!! the streak is heavy duty and i don't
mind lugging around an extra pound per 100'!!!
what's the tallest palm you've ever climbed????
maybe we can get some of these northern boys
down to do some palms w/ us!!!!!:D
budroe:cool:
 
Originally posted by budroe69moni
maybe we can get some of these northern boys
down to do some palms w/ us!!!!!:D
budroe:cool:

That would certainly be interesting!
:D
 
The tallest palm I ever climbed was a fifty-foot cabbage palm (sabal palmetto) that had NEVER been pruned. Had to deboot it, too. I tied into a nearby cypress tree and attacked it from the top down. It took about 3 hours.
 
Does laying a line accross the top work on washies as well as canary date palms? Just curious. There are several Washies here and a few Canaries. I just was wondering if when laying a line accross the top, the top is strong enough to use as a crotch for srt w/out doing and damage?

Just go back from Vegas this morning. Palm city. Saw a guy yesterday at the Mirage with a double wrapped fc working his way down a Washie. Technique looked great why this **** had spurs on is lost to me. I suppose that was how he gained access. I hope Sigfred and Roy spike him:eek: . Seems as though spikes are the standard there. Lost of gooey sap coming from those spike holes.

Does cleaning a palm make it healthier or is it simply an aesthetics/ pest control issue? :confused:
 
Nate, I just posted over at TB yesterday about Washies. If you can get your line down past the thorns, SRT will work fine as long as the palm is structurally sound. I think it's preferable to simply tying into the head with a traditional doubled rope since you will not have the rope pulling through the head while weighted. The thorns usually start about 3" out the fronds so once you get the rope inside the thorns you're fine.
Cut off the old fronds inside the first thorns so the boots won't have thorns on them. Otherwise you will get torn up, and the guy who trims them next year will get torn up also.

Yes, palm trimming is for aesthetics, pest control and to eliminate mess from dead fronds shedding. Removing too many green fronds (trimming to '11-1' instead of '10-2' or even '9-3') will reduce photosynthesis and drain resources from the palm, resulting in declining health if done repeatedly.
 
The pest control issue is not insignifigant; and extends to our state bird the Palmetto Bug. They stink when smushed and have an unnerving look and prescence of 2", 1oz. flying cockroach, also rats, snakes, bee hives, bats, fire ants, multi-colored lizards etc. many times giving access/range to a building. The rotting palm fronds can stink and draw grubs, hold mold and fugi that when dry can explode into a areial powder bloom when you are working. i hate working palms!

On some 'Queens' (?) the seed pods can get over 6' and 100#, maybe 4" in diameter, especially before they open and the pods are this compact torpedo that will invert to send the pointed top down first when being cut, ive seen one sunk a fair 18" in some wet ground. People alergic to bees will especially have these cut out if near the home, before opening those massive seed pods; might be 20+ in some palms easy? (not all 100# category on one tree, at least not here). Some palms have sharp needles that form near the crown of the fronds, where the start as leaves and become hardened, light starved almost foot long needles.

i've always been a lil'chicken to use this line over crown method for fear of hurting the growing tip, for it puts a 2/1 of the bouncing force of your weight on the tip with a 1/2" line footprint of wieght bearing. Any thoughts in thqt area? But then when squeezed i did step off the ladder with spikes if i had to for a few feet, the started with the etriers and not doing tall ones. Now i flip em to a bucket guy, or tell'em that is out of my area.

There is also some theory i've read somewhere that overtrimming to a tight 11o'clock to 1 o'clock like Brian says(not to); is that it tends to make the palms grow to fast and thin, by urging them up? If that is true, it also makes them harder to service next year. Just more excuses to do the right thing i think.....

Nice when you can come from the top down, trying to walk up under 10 years+ of bent over razor sharp fronds into who know's who's domain is no fun (but can be done without spikes on hefty fronds); especially while your eyes are adjusting to the noon darkness under the skirt to catch what light you can.

Palms can be beaautiful reminders of tropical presents in a portrait landscape; but they can be nasty, hate em...!:blob2:
 
palms

Tallest palm trimmed-50' off of a 40' ladder w/a HT-75 fully extended. (wash.) Most palms trimmed-over 1100 Cabbage in 6 weeks. Most trimmed in one day- 80 Cabbage. (Bucket truck) All palms I trim are 10-2. Except for Queen's,3-9.
 
I know everything is bigger in texas as some say. But you good ole folks should come out west hear if u want to see some tall palms. Your all talking baby heights.
 
I was watching palm pruners working on Big Island, Hawaii this past January...three different crews. They all were using a tool to prune with that looked like an oversized meat cleaver, and from the way they were working it, that mother was SHARP! Do any of you mainland palm pruners know about that? Also, two of these crews were using Swiss tree grippers to access the heads, one crew using spurs. I don't know if there is a correlation or not, but the "spurless" jobs were on pricey private properties, and the spurs were on municipal property. These were all in coconut palms.
 
drinks treat me good every night. Its just some of the days that it hurts.I was just saying the mex, fan palms hear top out around 110 ft. & they do alot of swaying. Just imiange climbinb up to around 60 ft. then the palm takes a sideways turn or bend. & sometimes holes thru the trunk you can put your arm thru. then have to go up an additonal 30 to 40 ft. to trim. As far as the knifes we always used good lanolinem knifes. & a flat file.
 
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