Advice on saw for TSI

[liberty]

I need a smaller saw for some TSI work(timber stand improvement)which is funded through the USDA NRCS programs. This is basically weeding the forest of the less desirable trees. Most of the the cutting will be no bigger than 3" or 4" down to 1". I am starting off with a 20 acre contract. This will grow over the next few years to maybe 150 acres total. My small saw now is a 52cc Jonsered cs2152 probably 12 years old. This saw has served me well. The power head is around 10.5lbs. I am looking at a Stihl MS150 CE about 6lbs at $529DSRP or a MS193 7.5lbs DSRP 379. Both with a 12" bar. Any thoughts as to which way I should go? I think the small homeowner saws Stihl has would not hold up like the ms170.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

If you have reason to justify an ms150, go for it!!!

I'm not real familiar with their lineups, but I know Echo and Dolmar both make very small saws, but it's unlikely that you'll find anything lighter and higher quality than the 150.

I'd love to have one of them things. I'd come up with all sorts of cute places to store it. I think if you took the bar off, it'd fit in the glovebox of my Honda. Maybe hanging from the mirror like a set of fuzzy dice. I could put it in the diaper bag. The possibilities are endless...

 

[dl5205]

While I have no commercial experience on this exact type of work, here are some thoughts anyway.

I like my 150 tophandle. It's a well made saw, and plenty capable of 4" wood. However, with only 1 bar stud (that screws into plastic), I would be hesitant to put it to work in a thinning operation. The 1/4 pitch chain would be a drawback, working close to the ground.

The 193 is likely not much more durable than a 170.

I would consider a pro 40cc saw like the ms241 (or dolmar 421, or husky 543) a more appropriate choice for this type of work. I'd want something that would pull a 3/8 lowpro or .325 with authority.

A pro grade clearing saw (think HEAVY DUTY weedeater) would perhaps be the Most productive.

 

[liberty]

The problem with the ms241 is that it weighs the same as my Jonsered 2152. I am going to be walking with this saw for 8 hrs a day. I also thought the the ms193 was considered a higher quality saw than the ms170. The MS150 ce I assume is commercial grade for that price.

 

[jr27236]

Are these trees close together or are you handling each one individually? I think if they were divided fairly well, id use a top handle saw. If they were small and tight together I'd use one of those brush cutters.

 

[alderman]

I'd hit it first with a brush cutter. It would probably do most of the falling without having to bend over.


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[liberty]

The trees are separate. I need to pick one crop tree every 20 ft and clear two sides of it going out 3 ft.

 

[liberty]

Not sure I want the brushcutter weighing in at 20lbs. The ms150 ce is listed as a farm saw while the ms150 t ce is listed as a professional saw. The ms170 is listed as a homeowner saw while the ms193 is listed as a farm saw. Which is the most durable among these saws? Sihl does not state the internal differences.

 

[dl5205]

The problem with the ms241 is that it weighs the same as my Jonsered 2152. I am going to be walking with this saw for 8 hrs a day. I also thought the the ms193 was considered a higher quality saw than the ms170. The MS150 ce I assume is commercial grade for that price.

I think you'll find the 241 is at least a full pound lighter than a 2152 in real world conditions. Nothing against the 2152, I have one and I like it a lot. In fact, if your saw is in good shape, it'll likely do a good job for you (no additional money spent). It's a shame you can't go buy a new Shindaiwa 360 or 377. You might still be able to find a Redmax 4000.

Nothing against the 150, it IS a pro saw (I Love mine, it is handy for much of what I do.). But the bar mount and the 1/4 chain would put me off, considering your intended purpose.

 

[dl5205]

Not sure I want the brushcutter weighing in at 20lbs.

You'd be carrying that weight on a shoulder harness, and you wouldn't be bending over all day.

The main drawbacks would be price ($) and the 'specialized' nature of a clearing saw (no limbing or bucking, hard to cut eye-level vines, etc.).

 

[liberty]

I feel the same on the brushcutter. To me the only plus is not bending over. . What is wrong with the 1/4" chain and the one bar nut?

 

[jakethesnake]

Not being smart but what about a nice machete ? Easy to carry and damn sure cut anything you've mentioned I'm just thinking the wiegjt to carry would be basically nothing ? If you need a saw I'd find the smallest sold

 

[dl5205]

What is wrong with the 1/4" chain and the one bar nut?

Nothing. If you are pruning or bucking light stuff, well off the ground.

All Day Stumping, even at 4" max dia, is Different. It puts a different load on the bar, and working close to the ground you are going to have to sharpen that dainty lil sucker (with all its many teeth) more than you'd like. Some have put 3/8 lowpro on a 150. You'd have to import a different drum setup, and I haven't really heard that much feedback on how well it works.

One bar nut, by itself is not that big of an issue. However, on a 150 that one stud screws into plastic, and its not all that HD of a setup. Works well enough for its intended purpose.

Don't misunderstand me, I'm not trying to talk you out of a 150. They are great little saws. I like mine and wouldn't want to give it up. Buy what you want, it's the best way to find out what works.

You might even have a look at the Echo 271.

 

[liberty]

I have a woodmans pal. Works great but not for this amount of cutting. The echo 271 looks interesting. How do they compare to the stihl in durability?

 

[Seedling345]

The problem with the ms241 is that it weighs the same as my Jonsered 2152. I am going to be walking with this saw for 8 hrs a day. I also thought the the ms193 was considered a higher quality saw than the ms170. The MS150 ce I assume is commercial grade for that price.

Farm and ranch

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[7sleeper]

I would definately take a bruschcutter over any saw everyday of the week! Much faster and easier work with than any chainsaw. And also the weight is NOT carried by your hands but, if you invest in a good shoulder harnes, by your torso.



In my experience a 35-40cc straight shaft higher quality model should be sufficient. What is important is that it should have a stronger gear drive. Personally I prefer the real brushcutters with full antivib.

7

 

[liberty]

to awkward in the thick stuff. Not sure I want to battle it. I like the idea of the lightweight top handle. The echo 271 t can be had for under $300. Is it considered to be a daily use saw? Not bad with a 5 year warranty.

 

[dl5205]

to awkward in the thick stuff. Not sure I want to battle it. I like the idea of the lightweight top handle. The echo 271 t can be had for under $300. Is it considered to be a daily use saw? Not bad with a 5 year warranty.

I have never seen nor handled a 271. It seems to get good reviews on several different arborist sites. A little searching here and other places would yield a lot of reading. For your needs, I like that it comes with a 3/8 lowpro chain. It is apparently the next-to-the-lightest saw you can currently get in the US. Like the 150, it would benefit from a 'Muffler Mod' and re-tune. You can Almost buy two (2) 271s for the price of one (1) 150.

Just to be redundant, and please don't take me the wrong way, but I still think you need more saw.

 

[svk]

Dolmar 32 or 35 are amongst the best built small saws on the market.

 

[CoreyB]

I'd hit it first with a brush cutter. It would probably do most of the falling without having to bend over.


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Ya that is what I was going to suggest a good brush saw unit will handle 3" stuff just fine. They cost a bit but save tones of time and bending.