Advice on saw for TSI

[liberty]

I have never seen nor handled a 271. It seems to get good reviews on several different arborist sites. A little searching here and other places would yield a lot of reading. For your needs, I like that it comes with a 3/8 lowpro chain. It is apparently the next-to-the-lightest saw you can currently get in the US. Like the 150, it would benefit from a 'Muffler Mod' and re-tune. You can Almost buy two (2) 271s for the price of one (1) 150.

Just to be redundant, and please don't take me the wrong way, but I still think you need more saw.

Why do you think more saw? Would the cutting speed be too slow?

 

[liberty]

Dolmar 32 or 35 are amongst the best built small saws on the market.

You are talking a 9lb plus saw again. Carrying and wielding that 2 pounds extra all day long is actually quite a difference. I appreciate the advice on the brush cutter and I thought of it before I posted. The price and the limited use beyond TSI excludes it from my choices. It seems that here on arboristsite the Echo 271t gets good reviews

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Do you have to bend over to cut near the ground? All day... I can't see how a RH or TH saw would be better than a brush cutter or trimmer with blade.

 

[TBS]

The 543xp weighs just under 10lbs and has good power and gives you the ability to cut larger wood if necessary with more bar options than the ms170 , the ms 170 is very nice and lightweight. If maintenance is a concern imo the 543xp is easier to work on.

 

[liberty]

The 543xp weighs just under 10lbs and has good power and gives you the ability to cut larger wood if necessary with more bar options than the ms170 , the ms 170 is very nice and lightweight. If maintenance is a concern imo the 543xp is easier to work on.

I was told the ms170 was purely a homeowner saw and would not last. The 543xp is too heavy. Previously I stated my jonsered 2152 is 10.5 which is too heavy. Buying a 543 would not be worth the 1/2lb. The cuts do not have to be flush with the ground. I can cut them as I see fit. A lot of the terrain is rough and carrying a brushcutter through it would not be pleasant. I have been doing some reading regarding the top handle saws. The consensus is that 4 or 5" trees are a piece of cake. I will be cutting mostly 1 to 3" trees. Can someone tell me why the top handle is a poor choice? Nobody has stated why. Weight is a major factor here. The brushcutter has been eliminated and I seem to think the Echo 271t is a good choice based on my reading. Can someone enlighten me on this saw with personal knowledge of it? I know the newer versions are much improved powerwise. In addition I would drop the saw to a 10" bar.

 

[liberty]

I was doing some thinking and then I realized i have an Echo PPT280 pole saw which I love. I think it is 28cc with the same 12" 3/8 lopro chain that the 271t takes. iT CUTS PLENTY FAST. My guess is the 271t will cut even faster. I think I might of answered my own question here.

 

[shorthunter]

I need a smaller saw for some TSI work(timber stand improvement)which is funded through the USDA NRCS programs. This is basically weeding the forest of the less desirable trees. Most of the the cutting will be no bigger than 3" or 4" down to 1". I am starting off with a 20 acre contract. This will grow over the next few years to maybe 150 acres total. My small saw now is a 52cc Jonsered cs2152 probably 12 years old. This saw has served me well. The power head is around 10.5lbs. I am looking at a Stihl MS150 CE about 6lbs at $529DSRP or a MS193 7.5lbs DSRP 379. Both with a 12" bar. Any thoughts as to which way I should go? I think the small homeowner saws Stihl has would not hold up like the ms170.

If you are correct about tree diameter, you need a new consultant. There are better options than TSI if a majority of the trees to be controlled are under 4" DBH. Prescribed fire will control trees in this range at a much more manageable expense (labor and money). Basal bark treatment will also contol trees in this range although it will be more expensive than the fire. If fire is not an option(looks like you are from NH), I would suggest waiting 10 years until your average DBH is 6-10" before performing TSI.

If your forester is convinced that you need TSI now, you might discuss basal bark treatment options for the smaller diameter stuff and buy a Dolmar 421 for the medium (6-12") sized trees

 

[dl5205]

... Previously I stated my jonsered 2152 is 10.5 which is too heavy...

I think you'll find the 2152 is actually in the 11.5# weight range, but no matter...

If you are not fit enough to use a 2152 all day, you soon will be. If you complete the contract.

I understand and sympathize with your wish to use as light a saw as you can get away with. However, you don't want to spend all day 'waiting on the saw', either.

If this project has USDA oversight they may not LET you use a tophandle saw on the ground. Big brother is 'watching out for your safety'.

Maybe have a look at (at least) something like the echo 361p rearhandle before you buy.

 

[liberty]

If you are correct about tree diameter, you need a new consultant. There are better options than TSI if a majority of the trees to be controlled are under 4" DBH. Prescribed fire will control trees in this range at a much more manageable expense (labor and money). Basal bark treatment will also contol trees in this range although it will be more expensive than the fire. If fire is not an option(looks like you are from NH), I would suggest waiting 10 years until your average DBH is 6-10" before performing TSI.

If your forester is convinced that you need TSI now, you might discuss basal bark treatment options for the smaller diameter stuff and buy a Dolmar 421 for the medium (6-12") sized trees

Controlled burn is not an option nor allowed. I just read about basal bark treatment. Sounds interesting but then I do not get to buy a new saw. Backpack sprayers are boring.

 

[CoreyB]

Top handled will cause more wrist and for arm fatigue as well as less control. But it sound like you have already made your mind up and just want someone to assure you're decision.

 

[liberty]

I think you'll find the 2152 is actually in the 11.5# weight range, but no matter...

If you are not fit enough to use a 2152 all day, you soon will be. If you complete the contract.

I understand and sympathize with your wish to use as light a saw as you can get away with. However, you don't want to spend all day 'waiting on the saw', either.

If this project has USDA oversight they may not LET you use a tophandle saw on the ground. Big brother is 'watching out for your safety'.

Maybe have a look at (at least) something like the echo 361p rearhandle before you buy.

Fitness is not the problem. I have learned through the years to work smarter not harder. If a lighter saw will get the the job done I am fully interested in that. The USDA oversight is a non issue since I am a private landowner on my own land. If the only reason against the lightweight top handle is speed than that is not a sufficient reason to not consider it. The idea of cutting 4lbs off the saw weight is huge when working all day.

 

[liberty]

Top handled will cause more wrist and for arm fatigue as well as less control. But it sound like you have already made your mind up and just want someone to assure you're decision.

That is a good point I was not aware of . Thanks

 

[liberty]

That 361p looks interesting. Only 8.3lbs

 

[dl5205]

Fitness is not the problem. I have learned through the years to work smarter not harder. If a lighter saw will get the the job done I am fully interested in that. The USDA oversight is a non issue since I am a private landowner on my own land. If the only reason against the lightweight top handle is speed than that is not a sufficient reason to not consider it. The idea of cutting 4lbs off the saw weight is huge when working all day.

OK then. I had ASSumed from your original post that this was contract work on public land. Work that you would get paid for. I still think your 2152 will do this job as well as or better than anything you will buy new.

However, I like those little 'micro saws'. They are handy. As I said before, buy what you want.

 

[CoreyB]

A rear handle ms150 would make me jealous.

 

[liberty]

OK then. I had ASSumed from your original post that this was contract work on public land. Work that you would get paid for. I still think your 2152 will do this job as well as or better than anything you will buy new.

However, I like those little 'micro saws'. They are handy. As I said before, buy what you want.

I am getting paid for it. Funding comes from the farm bill through the USDA. I love my 2152. It cuts great. I was just looking to lighten the load by quite a bit and still get the job done. I know that when I put down my 372xpw and pick up the 2152 it feels like a feather. I was hoping to have that same feeling with something lighter than the 2152.

 

[barton174]

What was said about the top handle is right. I've got a 330t and while it has really good power after the muffler mod, using it for any length of time can be a problem, because of so little leverage on it. Hard on my wrists.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[liberty]

What was said about the top handle is right. I've got a 330t and while it has really good power after the muffler mod, using it for any length of time can be a problem, because of so little leverage on it. Hard on my wrists.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

This is why I posted here. Real input. The top handle is off my list because of the two responses regarding forearm /wrist fatigue. I really like the Echo cs361p specs someone recommended. It seems to be the lightest in its class among all the brands and it is labeled a professional saw assuming this means a magnesium crankcase. About 3lbs lighter than my cs2152.

 

[TBS]

The cs 361 has a clamshell engine that sits in a plastic tank assembly.

 

[liberty]

The cs 361 has a clamshell engine with a plastic tank assembly.

Does that mean less durable and difficult to service?