aftermarket saw chains

[houndsman]

What are the most durable, cost effective aftermarket chains out these days? Any recommended sharpeners? I use a save edge file to touch up but am tired of paying to have them sharpened and only getting a half baked job for my money. Thanks for your time. Happy Thanksgiving to all. Eat, sleep it off. Eat sleep it off......

 

[Rftreeman]

Oregon, Oregon, use oregon files and keep them sharp youself.

 

[TDunk]

I bought some Pferd files and have had pretty good luck with them. Oregon chain is the easiest to sharpen, Woodsman pro is the cheapest to by.

 

[Bushman_269]

Woodland Pro chains from Bailey's are the best inexpensive chains I have found bar none.

 

[Crofter]

There is another good chain too that is rebadged Windsor. I got a few loops on the go but can never remember whether it is Laser or Saber. I really like the way it bore cuts. I guess I better not mention the distributor but they took over from the defunct Zip Pen. There price is decent and I believe they have stores in both States and Can.

 

[OLD CHIPMONK]

Hand-filing, nothing sharper when done properly !

 

[wally 12]

Hand-filing, nothing sharper when done properly

Hand-filing, nothing sharper when done properly

Old Chipmonk,
I am having trouble hand filing my chains, it seems to never be sharp , Then I have it ground with electric grinder and it cuts great.
Any advise?

Wally

 

[jburlingham]

Woodland Pro chains from Bailey's are the best inexpensive chains I have found bar none.

I would have to agree

 

[pdqdl]

Woodland Pro chains from Bailey's are the best inexpensive chains I have found bar none.

We tried some out, but have not been happy. The tie straps are marginally thinner (from top to bottom), and they fall through the anvil on our chain breaker. Seems ok otherwise.

 

[Crofter]

We tried some out, but have not been happy. The tie straps are marginally thinner (from top to bottom), and they fall through the anvil on our chain breaker. Seems ok otherwise.

The width of the tie strap should not matter if your anvil is correct. The anvil is supposed to straddle the tie strap and make contact only with the exposed sides of the drive links immediately next to the tie strap, as the punch drives out the rivets and tie straps as an assembly. In other words the drive links, not the tie straps are the anchor. It is possible the edges of the anvil are rounded. It is true that not all chains have similar shape and projection of the drive link tops but I have made up a lot of Carleton (Woodsman Pro) chains and never had a problem like you describe.

 

[pdqdl]

All true, if I understand your explanation correctly.

But the Oregon anvil works for our Oregon chain, and the other brand falls through the groove, cocks sideways in the groove, and the breaker can't do it's job.

It could be as simple as where they drill the holes on the drivelinks, or maybe we just got a poor batch of chain. Either way, it sucks time out of our chainmaking activities.

 

[jburlingham]

All true, if I understand your explanation correctly.

But the Oregon anvil works for our Oregon chain, and the other brand falls through the groove, cocks sideways in the groove, and the breaker can't do it's job.

It could be a simple as where they drill the holes on the drivelinks, or maybe we just got a poor batch of chain. Either way, it sucks time out of our chainmaking activities.

I haven't had that problem (obviously) as I don't make my own chains, I hit baileys online and order what I want. It sucks that you have the problem as the chains themselves are great, esp for the money.

 

[pdqdl]

No more than they cost, I should probably buy a new anvil just to make sure that isn't the problem.

There is probably a minute difference between the different brands of chain (set side by side, you CAN see the difference), and that is compounded by wear on our anvil.

 

[Crofter]

No more than they cost, I should probably buy a new anvil just to make sure that isn't the problem.

There is probably a minute difference between the different brands of chain (set side by side, you CAN see the difference), and that is compounded by wear on our anvil.

The side of the anvil that grabs the top of the drive link does not get a very big bite. I have had to take links out of modified chains that had the tops of the drive links "streamlined" and they would not catch so I know where you are coming from. In that case you can grind the heads off the two rivets you are going to have to punch out and just bend the chain and it will come apart. Unless for some strange reason you are saving the tie strap, you can grind into it quite heavily and make it really easy to separate. Some people have broken punches when taking apart untouched rivets and grind the heads first now, just as insurance.
You are not by any chance using a .404 anvil instead of a .375 by any chance are you?

 

[pdqdl]

The side of the anvil that grabs the top of the drive link does not get a very big bite. I have had to take links out of modified chains that had the tops of the drive links "streamlined" and they would not catch so I know where you are coming from. In that case you can grind the heads off the two rivets you are going to have to punch out and just bend the chain and it will come apart. Unless for some strange reason you are saving the tie strap, you can grind into it quite heavily and make it really easy to separate. Some people have broken punches when taking apart untouched rivets and grind the heads first now, just as insurance.
You are not by any chance using a .404 anvil instead of a .375 by any chance are you?

Yeah, I know all that. I distinctly don't like to the "grind the rivets" method. I have a tendency to burn my thumbs when I pop the chain.

I'm not new that this; I've been doing this for 25 years now. In fact, my anvil is almost that old, too. It just never gave us any trouble until we got the new chain from Bailey's.

Their chain is a little bit different, so I have chosen to blame it rather than a worn anvil. Like I said, our Oregon chain still does not fall through the groove, despite the wear on the anvil.