Air Injection has it's limits

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What model is it?
This is my 6 year old saw and it is just as clean on the inside.
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I wonder how many times damage such as this would have been avoided if the operator was running a sharp chain and pulling chips instead of making dust?
 
I just dont get it. Maybe im a little obsessed with post cutting maintenance, but still that saw has been neglected lol.

My post cutting routine is as follows:

1. Remove bar and chain, blow out bar groove, check nose sprocket, and check rails for burs etc. Takes a couple mins.
2. Remove engine cover. blow off entire saw with compressed air including chain and engine covers. Another couple mins
3. Remove air filter, inspect and blow it off with compressed air. Maybe a minute
4. Flip bar, reinstall with chain, adjust chain. Couple mins
5. File chain...This takes me the longest, i take my time and refuse to rush here. That being said, i probably do more with a file that what the file was meant to do, and might benefit from a grinder. 15-20mins maybe more if i hit something etc
6. Blow off entire saw one more time. Minute or so
7. Check all fasteners.
8. Fill fuel and bar oil...If i dont anticipate cutting for a while i empty the fuel and run the saw dry

A bit much? maybe, just what i like to do.



If you do dress your bar every time you run it this might help you . I do a good bit of pipe work so parts are mostly free( left over ,maybe used a little to finish prep for welding). Take a small grinder 4- 4 1/2 inch and us what we call a tiger paw or flapper wheel. Basically
a sandpaper wheel . It just takes a few swipes down the bar,top and sides. You do need to be careful with a fresh pad and don't bear down or it can take off too much. This eliminates a lot of file work. This is great for sharpening tools,lawnmower blades,axes bush axes. Cleans up rusty stuff too. A cheap grinder can be had at Harbor Freight for under 20 bucks. I have never used them but have friends who do.
 
I guess some people are more appreciative towards their tools when they lay down hard earned cash on their things than others. After every time i cut with my 372, i completely go over it, clean it up, clean the bar, grease the needle bearing, blow everything out, ect. The other day i was out cutting with a buddy, and he was surprised at how clean my saw was, though i just bought it. I said no, i just take care of my things, so it'll take care of me.
 
Yep... I always get that "you're joking...right?" look when I tell someone that it'll cost nearly as much for ME to clean it up enough to be able to work on it as it will to fix it....I've saws had come in that you could not even see the lower cyl fins on the flywheel side.......guy said it smoked some in a long cut...wasn't sure what was wrong just want me to "Check it out"......LOL!!!
 
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It's a killing machine!

Here are pics of my 385xp inside and outView attachment 280904View attachment 280905.
You will all notice that it is not pretty, and it will not be mistaken for new.
What it is is an 85cc tree killing machine. It can't be bargained with, it can't be reasoned with, it does not feel pity, or remorse, or fear, and it will not stop, ever, until all the trees are dead and in pieces on the ground. It is not your grandmother's antique china gravy boat, it does not care if you polish it's plastic. It only wants to mix clean oil/gas mix with clean air under compression with a spark in order to spin a sharp chain to kill, kill kill....
 
I would assume he never cleaned it and probably never will on any saw. Even the snap on top cover. So easy to clean that saw.
 
Keeping a saw clean and free of junk is a learned behavior. When I was showing pics of my Jonsereds 49sp, the first thing someone posted was to "CLEAN IT!". I just ran it. My saws aren't completely clean, but the cooling fins aren't plugged either.
 
That is a damn shame that saw was treated so badly. I could never ever let something get that bad.

I was taught to leave something better than when you got it. And the job isn't done 'til its been cleaned up.
 
Was there any intention of discussing how the air injection is supposed to get cleaner air to the area around the air filter. It looks as that filter won't pop open or isn't relying on the cover over it to hold it on. It wouldn't take too long to achieve that if one was cutting where the power head was going all the way to the ground in a pile of chips from a long cut. If you cut for lumber or trim trees (arborist) perhaps the power head seldom gets into a dirty corner. How about an electric chain saw do any of them filter the air for cooling?

Is part of the idea of air injection to get positive pressure, above atmospheric for more power?

Some air injection (or fan design in general) better at directing clean air than others?

Fran
 
From my understanding of air injection there would be a very negligale power increase if any at all. There just isn't enough pressure created to boost power through forced induction. That said, I do see that it makes a difference in time it takes to plug up a filter. My friend's Stihl 044 will need the filter cleaned way before my 372 with air injection does.
As a power adder I would say it's a bunch of hooey. However, in keeping the filter cleaner longer in dirty conditions it is a winner in my book.
 
When was the last time this guy checked his air filter? :msp_biggrin: Poor saw was toast. Everything else on it was as bad as the air filter. Fuel filter, rocked out chain flopping around in a worn out bar.


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75% of the saws that come in are worse than that, dang sissy Husky saws just can't
hack it when their filters get a little dirty.

This 039 runs fine just lacks power in the cut. I'm not blaming the choked off
filter I'm blaming the broken and missing clutch springs. I don't know how it cut at all.

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Pulled the sprocket drum off and found this.
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The air injection or turbo system on a Jred is just a centrifugal precleaner for the air box. The flywheel spinning around forces the larger heavier particles to the outermost radius of the flywheel housing and the air injection manifold draws its air from the cleaner area closer to the flywheel itself. That poor 357 probably croaked due to the foolish atmospheric compensator design on the carb. The 357 and 359 have a duct that connects the backside of the metering diaphragm to the negative pressure inside the air filter. The theory is that as the air filter plugs up more negative pressure will occupy the air filter and thus the metering diaphragm thus restricting its movement and leaning the saw slightly as the filter plugs. Hopefully keeping the saw running at full power longer. The downside is that without proper maintenance the filter can plug so severely that it renders the diaphragm useless and leans out the saw to the point of seizure. The system is the same on Stihl saws but without the air injection they plug up faster and tell the operator they need cleaning better.
 
75% of the saws that come in are worse than that

Yeah I gotta mention that you and hamish both understand this, but the average site member may not: In a shop environment, a LOT of saws come in this way. I think a great many guys couldn't find their air filter if you offered them a hundred bucks to show you where it is. Some of the 372's come in with the air filters so loaded up that you can hardly see the pleats in the filter. Almost like they troweled in the sawdust.
 
If I had a saw that filthy, I'd find someone else to take it in for repairs. I'd be ashamed to. Apparently some folks can't even be shamed. So their wallets get lightened. :msp_tongue:

About the pre-filtering, I got a RedMax GZ4000 (Spike tried it) in early Dec. It has around 12-15 little 10 oz tanks of mix through it now. The air filter still looks almost like new. It almost doesn't need a filter. Real easy to keep it shiny, inside and out. And keep it cool. :clap:
 
I would think you guys would like getting these saws in that condition , if they were treated good how would you get paid to work on them ?
 

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