nighthunter
addicted to arboristsite
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/392134595614 does anyone have experience of this mill and the pros and cons of this setup
An auxiliary oiler is definitely a plus and you'll get it with that kit. You'll need some type of rail or a wide, flat plank to make your first cut. An old ladder will work too.Thanks for all the reply's. I've a 880 with 48" that needs some work and was looking at the kit in the eBay link, Would I need anything else bar a ripping chain
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/392134595614 does anyone have experience of this mill and the pros and cons of this setup
Is it better to mill dry logs or green logs, and also what do you think of putting a maxi flow air filter on the 880 or just keep it standard
Nice idea on the walk board Henry. Thanks for sharing!I have the 48 inch model and I’m very happy with it, it’s easy to adjust depth of cut and it’s very accurate. I got the double ended milling bar with it but sometimes use a shorter standard bar to cut weight. The milling bar will consistently produce a smother finish than a standard bar with the same milling chain will. It’s not a huge diffference but it is a smoother cut. The Granberg ez rails make the first cut a lot simpler but are not a must. I’ve used a ladder but I tried one of my walk boards on this log I milled last week. I like the wallboard better because it’s very rigid and doesn’t flex and need shims in the center like a ladder sometimes does. There are lots of good ideas in the milling forum. It is hard work but the end result is worth the effort.
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You're right Doug. I didn't realize they made an expandable mill. I don't see it listed on their website but found some YouTube videos explaining it.Brian72, the additional round handle appears to be, because the mill kit the OP asked about is evidently a size adjustable set up, with 4 each 36" square tubes and 2 each 36" round handles, so the mill can be configured from 36"-72", and I imagine to also reduce shipping costs by reducing the pieces to 36" in stead of 72".
That's my take on the ebay listing posted any way, I COULD be wrong, but it doesn't happen often
Doug![]()
From what I've seen, it looks like a factory product. Certainly not half-assed engineering. I'm curious to learn more myself if I ever decide to go bigger with my mill.I wasn't aware of Granberg offering an expandable mill either, but looking at that UK ebay listing it seems that's what it is.
I haven't seen the youtube videos yet, is it a Granberg factory set up? Or I suspected something that someone figured out/put together.
Maybe it is something that Granberg doesn't offer here in the States, but does over seas? Heaven knows that there are plenty of Saws that we can't get here, but are sold elsewhere, and the chainsaw market has nothing on the automotive world in that regard.
Doug![]()
could that mill be on the weak side if it's made to expand up to 72", I'll never need that length but it could have the tendency to flex and bow in the middle but maybe I'm wrongFrom what I've seen, it looks like a factory product. Certainly not half-assed engineering. I'm curious to learn more myself if I ever decide to go bigger with my mill.
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Not sure. It seems to be pretty sturdy and well thought out. It has connectors that slide into the rails at the joints to stiffen them. Granberg makes quality stuff so I doubt they'd release anything that wasn't up to par. It also has a cross brace that bolts to the connector which will strengthen the joint. Search the YouTube videos and it explains the assembly. It's just a different setup than I'm used to seeing. It may just be a new design that wasn't available before.could that mill be on the weak side if it's made to expand up to 72", I'll never need that length but it could have the tendency to flex and bow in the middle but maybe I'm wrong
Is it better to mill dry logs or green logs, and also what do you think of putting a maxi flow air filter on the 880 or just keep it standard
You’re welcome. I bought a new powerhead when I bought the mill and didn’t have enough funds left to buy the big ez rails so I had to make use with what I already had. I used a ladder first but found it flexed a little from the weight of the saw. I tried the wallboard and like it better.Nice idea on the walk board Henry. Thanks for sharing!
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No doubt this can get quite expensive. I want to build a set of rails but never seem to have enough time. I've even used a study wide board to make my first cut. Seems I learn something new every time I mill.You’re welcome. I bought a new powerhead when I bought the mill and didn’t have enough funds left to buy the big ez rails so I had to make use with what I already had. I used a ladder first but found it flexed a little from the weight of the saw. I tried the wallboard and like it better.
I have a 48" Granberg and I'm running 28", 36" and 50" bars on my 661. I run my auxiliary oiler on 36 and up bars. For long bars, I highly recommend Cannon. They're pricey but very sturdy. No problems with any flexing.So I've gathered a decent amount of info from this thread, I'm actually looking into getting an Alaskan mill myself but having trouble deciding the best width option for starting out. I do see myself getting into this craft as I'm an outdoorsy person and have 27 acres of some big wood to mill and also have been doing woodworking stuff since I was 12. But just recently started gather equiptment for a side tree business, bucket truck, chipper, and a ms661 for the big trees which I'll also be using for milling. So with that said what size would you guys recommend for a young entrepreneur like my self? I dont have a problem buying larger bar for my 661 if getting a bigger then 36in would be a better option cuz that's what size I was looking at but seeing this thread about an adjustable one seemed interesting but like others have said most things with that much adjustment usually have more week spots..... thanks mike
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