Another lesson learned...chimneys

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chainsawaddict

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So here I am, bought this house aug 2007, it has a beautiful masonry chimney with a wood stove tied into it on the main floor, the chimney runs all the way to the basement

Ill go backwards a bit, I grew up in a house with a woodstove, but we never had a masonry chimney, so what did i know about chimney lining? absolutely nothing. Until the "chimney liner" thread the other day. I now realized I have an unlined masonry chimney, and the possible dangers associated with it.

So I spent the morning sweeping the chimney (again)as best as i could, and after that I called contractors until I finally found one that would put a clay liner in before spring, as well as check everything else out to make sure Im OK.

UGH...Arboristsite sure is costing me a lot of money, especially for being a
"free site.":cry:

I am almost embarassed to post this, but maybe it will help somebody else. Thanks guys:clap:
 
Cheaper than replacing the house (less embarrassing,too)How will they line the chimney?I have seen a process where an inflatable form tube is inserted, inflated to flue size and then concrete is poured around it.Actually, why don't you just go with an insulated stainless liner? I don't think you need the clay, and the steel is bound to be a lot cheaper.
 
Cheaper than replacing the house (less embarrassing,too)How will they line the chimney?I have seen a process where an inflatable form tube is inserted, inflated to flue size and then concrete is poured around it.Actually, why don't you just go with an insulated stainless liner? I don't think you need the clay, and the steel is bound to be a lot cheaper.

the guy i talked to said that if my chimney doesnt have any "dog legs"(which it doesnt) they can put a clay liner in it and it is cheaper. Im not quite sure how, he's coming to look at it, and ill ask more then.

He says the steel cuts your draft a bit and costs a bit more. Its a central chimney, so it probably wouldnt have to be insulated....?

a stainless liner might be a little easier to maintain...

If anybody can think of anything else I should be aware of, or ask, Im all ears.
 
I had a stainless liner dropped in one of my chimneys (I assisted with my cherry picker) and it didn't need to be insulated. It goes straight into an insert. It works fine but the squirrels love it in the off season. My other chimney has a wood furnace on it and it already had a ceramic liner in it.
 
Putting in a stainless liner is the way to go. With it being unlined currently, I would use an insulated stainless liner. Most of the time a standard liner w/o the insulation is good for a lined chimney. The part about losing draft on a smaller flue is BS. You can increase draft. Having a flue thats too big can reduce draft and cause buildup. We have a well built chimney with a terracotta liner. Built in 62. Its in good condition, but I will someday line it with a stainless liner. Much easier in the end, with few worries. Ebay carries good liners that are reasonable.
 
The installation is no piece of cake though. If you put it in in one piece it is damn heavy. If you put it in in stages then if you drop/lose it it would be a disaster in lost time. My employee and I were both in the bucket and we almost lost it (28' appx.) a couple of times inserting it in the chimney and while it was going down. If you have a walkable roof it should not be too difficult tho.
 
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Just think, 50 years ago a lined chimney would have been an anomoly. Now everyone frets over it. I can understand the need for safety and the lined chimneys are definately much easier to maintain. When I was buying my furnace, I had a stainless liner on order-36ft for just over $400 4 years ago. In case you need a price point when comparing to a contractor.

Anyway, after talking to several other people that have burnt wood for years, the clay liner is more than adequate. Not difficult to maintain but stainless is probably easier.
 
Just think, 50 years ago a lined chimney would have been an anomoly. Now everyone frets over it. I can understand the need for safety and the lined chimneys are definately much easier to maintain. When I was buying my furnace, I had a stainless liner on order-36ft for just over $400 4 years ago. In case you need a price point when comparing to a contractor.

Anyway, after talking to several other people that have burnt wood for years, the clay liner is more than adequate. Not difficult to maintain but stainless is probably easier.

I agree with Books,

My house is 200+ years old and has 3 brick chimneys that always had at least two stoves on them. (one one each). The third has a gas Jotul Allagash with aluminum pipe and capped. My point being the house is still here after all this time with the stoves just coming through a thimball into the chimney. I have them swept once a year. That said I will probably do a stainless flex flue when I install a new soapstone stove next year. If it's easy enough I'll do my kitchen cookstove too. Insurence purposes really is the only reason I'm doing it. I've never had draft problems even though they are big chimneys.

I would check the price difference between doing stainless flex or the clay. Seems too me the clay would be more money? Flex kits run between $400-$500 for 30 footers.
 
You are likely burning intelligently too. Some people are not capable/knowledgeable enough to do this. Thus...standards.

Hey back in the early 70's when wood burning was at its peak, in NJ where I lived the landscape was strewn with smoldering structures in Hunterdon County.
 
I agree with Books,

My house is 200+ years old and has 3 brick chimneys that always had at least two stoves on them. (one one each). The third has a gas Jotul Allagash with aluminum pipe and capped. My point being the house is still here after all this time with the stoves just coming through a thimball into the chimney. I have them swept once a year. That said I will probably do a stainless flex flue when I install a new soapstone stove next year. If it's easy enough I'll do my kitchen cookstove too. Insurence purposes really is the only reason I'm doing it. I've never had draft problems even though they are big chimneys.

I would check the price difference between doing stainless flex or the clay. Seems too me the clay would be more money? Flex kits run between $400-$500 for 30 footers.

I guess Im just doing it for peace of mind. today when i scooped out the cleanout after I swept, I couldnt help but notice how much mortar was coming out with the creosote, even though im pretty sure the ol girl is solid. my house was built in 1920, so its not nearly as old as yours, but that is still a long time for mortar, especially here in nebraska where houses werent built nearly as good as they were on the east coast 200 years ago...
 
You are likely burning intelligently too. Some people are not capable/knowledgeable enough to do this. Thus...standards.

Hey back in the early 70's when wood burning was at its peak, in NJ where I lived the landscape was strewn with smoldering structures in Hunterdon County.

Yep it's really all about the the wood (seasoning) and burning hot fires.

I guess Im just doing it for peace of mind. today when i scooped out the cleanout after I swept, I couldnt help but notice how much mortar was coming out with the creosote, even though im pretty sure the ol girl is solid. my house was built in 1920, so its not nearly as old as yours, but that is still a long time for mortar, especially here in nebraska where houses werent built nearly as good as they were on the east coast 200 years ago...

I understand where your coming from. I'm breaking down and doing mine too this summer. Also going too repoint from the roof up on two of them. The top course of bricks is looking flimsey. The stainless I've got too think is cheaper money than clay though? Let us know what your guy says about the cost of the clay.
 
Yep it's really all about the the wood (seasoning) and burning hot fires.



I understand where your coming from. I'm breaking down and doing mine too this summer. Also going too repoint from the roof up on two of them. The top course of bricks is looking flimsey. The stainless I've got too think is cheaper money than clay though? Let us know what your guy says about the cost of the clay.

Maybe I misunderstood him...I will ask again.

I have to admit, for some reason i like the clay idea way better than the stainless idea. Not sure why...
 
Just for what it's worth: The brick chimney we have contains two flues. One for the furnace and one for the wood stove. Both of which are clay. We've had them for about 26 years. The top of the clay liner, where it exits the chimney into the chimney cap, is starting to erode, ie. disintigrate slightly. It's been getting worse every year. I don't think this would be an issue if it were a metal-pipe. The clay liner for the furnace is in great shape...like new. Just my observations from on top of the roof this week giving her a sweep.
 
Yup , my chimney was built in '57 with two terra cotta liners. I run propane and fuel oil up one and wood up the other. The liner on the wood side is 7x11x26' and the chimney is exterior. Drafts OK and I sweep it about once a month and pull about a dry quart of croesote out. Haven't burned any oil in two years and use about 4 full cord a season in the basement woodstove.
 
Yep it's really all about the the wood (seasoning) and burning hot fires.



I understand where your coming from. I'm breaking down and doing mine too this summer. Also going too repoint from the roof up on two of them. The top course of bricks is looking flimsey. The stainless I've got too think is cheaper money than clay though? Let us know what your guy says about the cost of the clay.

the timing is good too. switching to the combifire and all:clap: :)
 
The installation is no piece of cake though. If you put it in in one piece it is damn heavy. If you put it in in stages then if you drop/lose it it would be a disaster in lost time. My employee and I were both in the bucket and we almost lost it (28' appx.) a couple of times inserting it in the chimney and while it was going down. If you have a walkable roof it should not be too difficult tho.

We must be talking apples and oranges.I have a 35' liner I can lift with one hand,easy.20 lbs would be my guess.It is single wall stainless.What are you using?
 
I don't know your contractor, but he is dead wrong about a SS liner "cutting" your draft.It will increase it noticeably.

like i said maybe i misunderstood him, but i am definitely not lacking draft. when i unhooked the stove today the chimney sucked all the heat right out of here, we went from 80 to 50 in a couple hours...:jawdrop:
 
We must be talking apples and oranges.I have a 35' liner I can lift with one hand,easy.20 lbs would be my guess.It is single wall stainless.What are you using?

We put in again, about 30 feet of stainless steel flex pipe and my guess is that it weighed in the neighborhood of 200 lbs (just a guess, could have been more or less). Sounds like very light duty stuff you are using. This is what the installer puts in on any re line job. I have the light stuff on my flu but that is easy to replace.
 
Ask for the difference in warranties and guarantees between the clay and stainless liners.

Labor, materials, etc.

If there is no compelling structural reason to use clay then do not. A quality installation of a stainless steel liner is the best answer. If you get a stainless liner be sure to check the paperwork as some have to be insulated in order to qualify for the for effect of the warranty.

Good luck. Peace of mind is almost always expensive.
 

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