Any benefit to running a smaller bar?

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greenlantern412

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On two of my smaller Echo saws, 3450 and 4400, they say to use a 16" and an 18" bar. Well I put a 14" on the little 3450, and a 16" on the cs-4400 and they run well. Is there any reason to use a bigger bar? One is for limbing, the other for small applications around the house. Thanks
 
On two of my smaller Echo saws, 3450 and 4400, they say to use a 16" and an 18" bar. Well I put a 14" on the little 3450, and a 16" on the cs-4400 and they run well. Is there any reason to use a bigger bar? One is for limbing, the other for small applications around the house. Thanks

Sometimes a longer bar will help with the obvious bigger wood issue, but sometimes a little extra length means you don't have to reach or bend over as far some times. But for smaller wood sometimes you get too much bar/chain sticking out the other side of what you are cutting to get snagged on something or into dirt or stones.

Sometimes its personal preference as well and what you get used too.

I agree with "computeruser" about the bar lengths as well, seems a little better suited, I have an 18" on my 440 and think it would be better with a 16" setup.
 
but sometimes a little extra length means you don't have to reach or bend over as far some times.

This is why I don't mind a bit of a bigger bar on a small saw. If you have big rounds get out a bigger saw or work your small saw hard, but with a 18-20" bar you don't have to lean over much.
 
The longer bar is easier on your back to some people I agree. But for the most part the saws now days come with to long of a bar to begin with! A 20 inch bar on a 45-50 cc saw for instance kills your power and makes the saw unbalanced. When I was a kid everyone had a 16 inch bar on their firewood saw, a mac 10-10 is a screamer with a 16 inch bar and 3/8 chain, put a big bar on and it wouldnt be so impressive. So if you want a big bar in my opinion get a big saw! And if a lot of the little saws with 18-20 inc bars would go to a 14-16 they would be nicely surprised !!
 
:agree2:
The longer bar is easier on your back to some people I agree. But for the most part the saws now days come with to long of a bar to begin with! A 20 inch bar on a 45-50 cc saw for instance kills your power and makes the saw unbalanced. When I was a kid everyone had a 16 inch bar on their firewood saw, a mac 10-10 is a screamer with a 16 inch bar and 3/8 chain, put a big bar on and it wouldnt be so impressive. So if you want a big bar in my opinion get a big saw! And if a lot of the little saws with 18-20 inc bars would go to a 14-16 they would be nicely surprised !!
:cheers:
 
Chain speed, Shorter the bar the higher the chain speed.:chainsaw:

ummm...chain speed is solely based upon rpm...how long the bar is won't affect chain speed.

Correct me if I'm wrong...A longer bar would only be slower if the wood being cut was also bigger and more teeth were then in the cut, right? A 50cc with a 36" bar would cut the same as with an 18" bar if the log diameter was the same...well, perhaps additional friction of chain on the bar would slow it down, i'll concede that.

I loved the 24" on my 359, especially bucking without leaning over, but tired of the nose heavy handling. Now with 20" it's perfectly balanced.
 
ummm...chain speed is solely based upon rpm...how long the bar is won't affect chain speed.

Correct me if I'm wrong...A longer bar would only be slower if the wood being cut was also bigger and more teeth were then in the cut, right? A 50cc with a 36" bar would cut the same as with an 18" bar if the log diameter was the same...well, perhaps additional friction of chain on the bar would slow it down, i'll concede that.

I loved the 24" on my 359, especially bucking without leaning over, but tired of the nose heavy handling. Now with 20" it's perfectly balanced.
Put a 48" bar on your 359 and I will put a 16" on my 359 and we will cut a 14" red oak log and I bet I will beat you,I would even bet on it.:chainsaw:
 
ummm...chain speed is solely based upon rpm...how long the bar is won't affect chain speed.

Correct me if I'm wrong...A longer bar would only be slower if the wood being cut was also bigger and more teeth were then in the cut, right? A 50cc with a 36" bar would cut the same as with an 18" bar if the log diameter was the same...well, perhaps additional friction of chain on the bar would slow it down, i'll concede that.

I loved the 24" on my 359, especially bucking without leaning over, but tired of the nose heavy handling. Now with 20" it's perfectly balanced.

:monkey: Hmmm... Maybe you are right:monkey:

My apology.... I have been into the "Black Jacks" tonight. (Guinness & Jack).
:cheers:
 
If I quit wasting so much time on the net and got my saws running right, I have thought making a 12'' chain for my Poulan Micro XXV that originally came with a 12 '' bar. It handled a 16'' bar just fine my last big project except It wouldn't go all the the way through some of the stuff.

Last I checked, I couldn't buy a 12'' chain. Buy a 30'' and make two 12'' s out of it?
 
I just put a 12" on my Poulan 2550

I just put a 12" on my Poulan 2550 and I believe it had an 18" on it. I like the 12. It's also helpful that the bar and chain are new and not safety chain. A slight carb tune did wonders too.
 
Put a 48" bar on your 359 and I will put a 16" on my 359 and we will cut a 14" red oak log and I bet I will beat you,I would even bet on it.:chainsaw:

I was asking for a correction if wrong....as in: "A longer bar cuts slower because...".
If identical saws are cutting through identical logs, how will the bar's length matter? (The question is a literal question...not a challenging statement). Other than frictional losses of chain-on-bar, what other forces would make it cut slower?
 
The mass of the chain also has an effect. That's why people spend many hours with a grinder taking metal out of a race chain. The lighter the chain the faster it cuts.
 
Yes
  • Less Friction on the bar means less drag and more power where it counts
  • Less chain to lubricate means better chain lube and less drag again for more power
  • Lower cost to buy a new chain when you stuff it in the rocks
  • Less chance of accidentally getting into something behind the log
  • Less distance between nose sprocket and saw sprocket means less chance of throwing a chain
  • Fewer teeth to sharpen
  • Less weight of the saw overall

I've used a 20" bar on my 290 for a long time and only rarely came across the need for something more. Still contemplating on the bar for my 066 and 044. I may go with a 25 or 28" just to make up some difference with the bigger dawgs, but a 25" would probably be just fine for what I do. In many many years of cutting firewood, I never once have thrown a chain completely off the bar...I attribute that to the 20" size and good chain maintenance.:cheers:
 
To me...

On my 346 xp and MS 260 Pro. I run a 18 inch bar,,good for limbing and having to bend over and all...Speed isnt a issuse with me cause I'm not a logger,,so,,but for felling,,I like my MS440 and it's 28 inch on her...I like making one cut instead of having to line up and makin two.....
For fellin a large tree really does it make more time to have a small bar and have to align the cuts instead a long bar and just do it with one cut???
 
Right now I don't think anybody here sells Poulan chain but Lowes.

As far as sharpening goes, the smaller the chain the faster, but doesn't it need sharpened sooner? About break even?
 
Yes
  • Less Friction on the bar means less drag and more power where it counts
  • Less chain to lubricate means better chain lube and less drag again for more power
  • Lower cost to buy a new chain when you stuff it in the rocks
  • Less chance of accidentally getting into something behind the log
  • Less distance between nose sprocket and saw sprocket means less chance of throwing a chain
  • Fewer teeth to sharpen
  • Less weight of the saw overall
...

Yes, but the most important one is better balance and handling (in most cases).
 

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