Any Suggestions for Home Made Felling Wedges

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Bruce Hopf

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I was wondering if any body makes their own Felling Wedges. I usually buy the ABS Plastic Felling Wedge for $6.00, because I can only find them at the Local TSC, or Canadian Tire Stores (something like Wal Mart in the US), or I have to put 100 miles round trip on a Vehicle and spend $9.00 to $12.00 per Aluminum Felling Wedge, at an Arborist Supply Store. Too much money to spend if they happen to get lost.
The ABS Plastic Wedges don't last very long. Either they get broke hitting it too hard while in the cut, or the Chain grinds the tip off, and it's no good for nothing after that. I've even lost a few of them as well.
So this is why I'm asking, about making my own Felling Wedges. Any Suggestions. Thanks. Bruce.
 
I make my own.

Bruce, I am also a woodsmith and thus I have lots of scrap hardwood in my shop. I usually carry a few hardwood wedges made of either oak, ash, or hickory in the truck. These are usually about an 8 to 1 wedge cut from 5/4 scrap that tops out with a blunt end that measures about 1-5/8" x 1-1/8". The sharp end measures about 1-5/8" x 1/8".

I rough cut the wedge on the band saw and then smooth the angled sides on the jointer. I hate plastic and these always work and are easy to replace.
 
Bruce, I am also a woodsmith and thus I have lots of scrap hardwood in my shop. I usually carry a few hardwood wedges made of either oak, ash, or hickory in the truck. These are usually about an 8 to 1 wedge cut from 5/4 scrap that tops out with a blunt end that measures about 1-5/8" x 1-1/8". The sharp end measures about 1-5/8" x 1/8".

I rough cut the wedge on the band saw and then smooth the angled sides on the jointer. I hate plastic and these always work and are easy to replace.

I never thought of this. Sure beats those 5lb wedges I keep in my tool box. Thanks for the idea. I have more then enough scrap wood laying around

Chris
 
I cut them with the chainsaw

out ash stump wood, then sand them a bit, throw them in a can of oil

Started doing this when I left all wedges at home then need came for a wedge cut it out of a stump been doing it for years.



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and destroy some chains......

and yer face.

Besides, they taper way quicker. Not much mechanical advantage for lifting a tree over.

As to the original post, I figure wedges are a standard cost of cutting safely. I buy the K&H wedges that don't break (ok, so maybe they do, I just never have) and last a long time, and keep good tabs on them out in the woods so I don't lose them. I hate how much plastic is taking over in our society, but I'd just rather use plastic wedges than anything else. And heck, if you're sawing off enough of the wedge to make it useless, you should look into not cutting your wedges. Plan out your cut a little better or pay attention to what you're cutting.
 
My next order with Bailey's is going to include a few different wedges from their selection. Get a few of the cheap $3-6 ones and then maybe a couple of the steel insert ones. I've only got one wedge now and the one time I used it last year I realized that when you've got a 20" DBH oak standing there and you want to use a wedge to fall it, one wedge is not going to do the job.
 
I usually buy the ABS Plastic Felling Wedge for $6.00, because I can only find them at the Local TSC, or Canadian Tire Stores . . ., or I have to put 100 miles round trip on a Vehicle . . . at an Arborist Supply Store.

Improvising wedges in the field is an interesting idea, and making them in your shop an interesting thought if you are a woodworker and enjoy it.

The plastic wedges are a inexpensive catalog item to help fill out an order when buying other stuff, an still have a few more dollars to spend for the same shipping $$$. This would make them free, compared to all that driving.

Its a good idea to carry extras in your case in a few sizes for flexibility. I like the plastic ones 'cause they are light and easy to see.

". . .or the Chain grinds the tip off, and it's no good for nothing after that . . . "

I have re-shaped chipped tips on a disc sander - you usually don't need a razor point.

Phibert
 
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I was wondering if any body makes their own Felling Wedges.
The ABS Plastic Wedges don't last very long. Either they get broke hitting it too hard while in the cut, or the Chain grinds the tip off, and it's no good for nothing after that. I've even lost a few of them as well.
So this is why I'm asking, about making my own Felling Wedges. Any Suggestions. Thanks. Bruce.

I make a few wooden wedges every winter. They're not really any better than the plastic ones but they're fun to make and you can do all different sizes and tapers. I usually use oak but I've made them out of madrone and almond.

If your wedges are breaking when you hit them you're not hitting them square or you're hitting them way too hard. Try wedging just before you really need to...if that makes sense. You'll use less force and probably get better results.

You can put a new edge on or re-shape plastic wedges with a horseshoer's
rasp. The rasp leaves a rough finish on the wedge that a lot of people like.
 
If your wedges are breaking when you hit them you're not hitting them square or you're hitting them way too hard. Try wedging just before you really need to...if that makes sense. You'll use less force and probably get better results.

You can put a new edge on or re-shape plastic wedges with a horseshoer's
rasp. The rasp leaves a rough finish on the wedge that a lot of people like.

Excellent post, I use a rasp as well, it works great. I have broken wedges, but not for a while.
 
Bruce, those aluminum ones that you sometimes buy are no good. They're not nearly as bad as steel, but they are still dangerous to you and your equipment.

The plastic ones are excellent for their inteded purpose, and the cheapest piece of equipment out there. I try to keep two 5 or 6 inch oregons with the grippy teeth and two 10 inch redheads with me at all times, and my boss regularly buys 8 inch Stihl or Husky wedges. Just find a brand that satisfies you and buy them in bulk.

On the rare occasion when I need to make a wedge, I cut a 1" to 2" inch diameter hardwood sapling or branch, cut straight pieces out of it, then rip those into half diagonally. It works, but I normally end up giving myself a lot steeper angle than I really need.
 
Save your gas and order them off the internet, Get mine from baileys. I Have not broken many as they are kinda tough and you can file em down if you hit them with the saw. If you have to drive a 100 miles to buy them then the internet's going to be cheaper.
 
I have 2 steel splitting wedges and 2 plastic wedges for falling trees. I think in the end I would still have the steel wedges in the tool box. lol

I will have to make a few wooden wedges

Chris
 
Red Top double taper

The 12 inch red or actually orange top wedges are my current favorite.
They are hard enough to drive and not mushroom, yet soft enough not to snap.
As far as cutting the tip off, they can be trimmed with a sharp saw that DOSENT have the drags too low!

But most ofthe time i just get some dog wood, hickory, red oak, ash, pretty much any hard wood.
I like to lop an 8 inch wide stump about 1 to 2 feet then cut with the grain, making spaghetti shavings(so the wedge will drive). Depending on the job at hand anywhere from 10 to 1 to 12 to 1/2. The thin ones take some finess but once theye are about half in they are god to go!!
 
nothing like steel in your eye:chatter:
Stick with plastic or wood or your new nickname will be " Patch"
 
I have made wedges in the field but if need to make money that is not a smart thing to do. Now I buy a dozen at a time from Madsen's, that is their house branded wedges. I also have some hard head and long heavy lift wedges.
 
Heres how I make felling wedges

I posted this in the firewood not sure what the Etiquette is but here you go


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When done soak in bar and chain oil for a minute or 2 don't let them dry out

keep them oil and slick


:chainsaw:
 

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