Any toolless tensioners that don't suck?

[Gomofast]

Just wondering if the Stihl or Husqvarna toolless tensioners are any good. I used a Poulan with toolless tensioner and it was absolutely abysmal. Wondering if the top brands do it any better. In concept it seems like a great idea, if anybody could figure out how to do it well.

 

[jblnut]

I picked up a few things from my local Stihl dealer a week or so ago and messed with a MS250 that had a tool less tensioner and it seemed chinsy. Handy but not for me. I just got a scrench and have no intentions of leaving it gather dust and get rusty lol

 

[Franny K]

The Makita system can be adapted to but at this point it is probably hard to get a gasoline one with that feature. Kind of hold the bar with the saw dangling down when adjusting tighter probably will be able to adapt to some others. Better is the tool less bolt/nut thing is between two locating pins same as any one bolt for the bar hold down. Modern Poulan is Husqvarna.

 

[Philbert]

Most of them work, as far as tensioning, and most are ‘convenient’. . But, several are hard to use while wearing gloves. And, I still feel like I get finer control with a scrench.

Philbert

 

[Gomofast]

Most of them work, as far as tensioning, and most are ‘convenient’. . But, several are hard to use while wearing gloves. And, I still feel like I get finer control with a scrench.

Philbert

The one I used just wouldn't stay tight. I was re-tensioning after every cut.

 

[Franny K]

The tool less system has two parts the tool less bar nut and the tool less adjustment. If you have decided that the best set up is an inboard clutch with the adjustment in the saw as opposed to the clutch cover, there probably isn't going to be one of those systems as good. The Stihl system is to use a snail type part that attaches to the bar. The Dolmar system is a plastic clutch cover but the pin that goes into the bar hole and the threaded piece that goes lengthwise is essentially the same as any other clutch cover side adjusting set up. The crank nut replacement is top notch imo the part that replaces the screwdriver slot like Phil says above pretty much. Put a picture of the Poulan set up. If you have to re-tension sounds like the plastic clutch cover problem might not really be because of no tool needed. I find the Makita system less precise but adapt to giving it one little paddle push at a time when the chain becomes a certain amount of loose and just not being as fussy about the adjustment. Pull up on the top of the chain to make the bar pushed back against the pin when tighten.

 

[stihltech]

You either love em or hate em. Homeowners as a rule love them in my shop. Out of approximately 400+ units with the I may have removed 6.
Can't say I like them on a larger saw. Seem better on the 017, ms170 up to 025, MS250. Never removed one on a MS270 or 280.
It is like anything, a little maintenance goes a long way.

 

[wseibert]

As a homeowner, I've used one on my MS180C for a decade now and the chain adjusting is easy and stays put. However, I used to get all bunged up when replacing the bar and chain. There are two tabs on the tensioner that have to engage in two holes on the bar, and it is easy to miss.

 

[Gomofast]

...Put a picture of the Poulan set up...

I don't have it anymore. Wasn't really trying to diagnose/fix that particular saw. Was just wondering if they were all bad.

 

[Gord404]

250C was here for a while with another broken cord on his pull-pull up stupid start ( probably good for people with physical problems) so I had an 230 and the flywheel and start fit on it, he's happy, couldn't do much about the chain ajuster so he will have to live with it- prefer 2 bar nuts and a hole in the center for a screwdriver especialy when you have to take the bar off-PITA- MIO

 

[Philbert]

I recall, on an older STIHL, that you had to remove a gear, mounted on the guide bar, with a small, proprietary, easy-to-lose, screw, in order to flip the bar for even wear.

And the small, thumb wheel was hard to turn when wearing gloves, or with wet or oily hands.

Don’t know if it has changed.

Oregon battery saw has a big, center, knob and large, scalloped, perimeter ring to turn. Works OK, even with most gloves.

Nothing mounted on the guide bar.


Philbert

 

[Timber MacFallen]

Just wondering if the Stihl or Husqvarna toolless tensioners are any good. I used a Poulan with toolless tensioner and it was absolutely abysmal. Wondering if the top brands do it any better. In concept it seems like a great idea, if anybody could figure out how to do it well.

I've never really understood the appeal. It takes less than a minute to loosen a nut with the scrench and turn the screw to tension the chain where you want it and then retighten. Those toolless systems strike me as flimsy toys for people looking for novelty. Just go for a quality normal saw.

 

[Philbert]

I've never really understood the appeal.

Mostly a feature on ‘homeowner’ saws.

Scrench gets lost, along with manual, or tossed out with box.

Different mindset than ‘maintaining’ a tool.

I never chose one, but a few saws came that way.

Philbert

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

My dad likes the one on the 180 I gave him. I hate them.

I hate the husky and poulan versions too.

If I had to choose one. It would be the ones for the homeowner saws with tensioner in the bar. Intenz by oregon.

This saw came with that intenz bar.

 

[Philbert]

Intenz always seemed like a solution in search of a problem to me.

Extra parts in the bar to mess up. Limits your bar choices. Could not save a saw manufacturer that much money over conventional tensioners. .

I guess if you lost your side access tensioner parts, or somehow damaged the casting where those parts mount, it could be a ‘fix’.

Philbert

 

[Franny K]

Intenz always seemed like a solution in search of a problem to me.

Extra parts in the bar to mess up. Limits your bar choices. Could not save a saw manufacturer that much money over conventional tensioners. .

I guess if you lost your side access tensioner parts, or somehow damaged the casting where those parts mount, it could be a ‘fix’.

Philbert

The problem is Stihl has no chain adjuster parts in the clutch cover and side access tensioner. This is a solution of how to do a similar thing. Those intenz bars are just double guard grade anyway. If you don't need the adjusting feature, it makes mounting bar and chain easier. get the nose and drive sprocket engaged, twist the intenz adjuster which will by pushing against the front bar stud make the bar in pretty much the position it will end up at before bringing the clutch cover with the adjuster set about right near.