Anyone know welding?

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Timberwerks

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I ask because I have been splitting wood from a very large Elm that was cabled in several areas at one time. I have hit multiple lag bolts and buried cable that has caused my wedge on the splitter to get a few C shaped dents. Rather than grinding down the edge as deep as I would have to in order to remove them I was wondering if fresh metal can be added to the dents and re-ground. If this can be done would the filled areas be weak and fall out or would it be good as new?

Dale
 
Weld away

Yep,sure can.Most splitters have a mild steel wedge anyways.Just fill it in and grind it down,good as new[well,almost] :)
 
Al is right, should be easy to build it up and then reshape it. You might also want to get someone to spray weld some hardfacing on the leading edge of the wedge if you expect to continue splitting urban wood.

Russ
 
I have done this before as well, the only difference is I run stainless across it to give is a harder edge when I'm done, it works well.
 
Great, thanks for the good new's guy's. I'll check the Yellow Pages for a welding company. I may have to pay them a vist every once in a while. I'll just file off the rough edges for now.

Dale
 
We used to use 'Stellite' welding rods to provide hard wearing lead edges on earth moving equipment, dozers etc.
Used to make centre punches out of the rods to!!!
Don't know if it has the same name in tne U.S.
 
Same,same.Hard surface rods contain a variety of metals,mangenese is one type.The problem with using hard surface rods on a cutting edge is the fact that once done,a grinder won't even touch them,with regards to sharpening the edge.You may ,in fact,get a bit harder surface by using the 7018,or in fact a T-1 type 11016 or 11018,but then with no quinch,I don't know as to the hardness.Any of these rods would give a tougher surface though,than the mild steel,if that is in fact what the wedge is made of.
 
Yeah Al, the 11018 rod will make a pretty tough yet machinable edge, I haven`t ever used 11016 so I don`t know about that. When you said "You may ,in fact,get a bit harder surface by using the 7018,or in fact a T-1 type 11016 or 11018,......" didn`t you mean more durable instead of harder?

I have used a hardface rod, Eutetctic 4004, that would flow out to a fairly thin surface layer that was put down over a more ductile layer of 7018 or their own brand underlayment. It works very well and it`s not particularly hard to apply but it goes down hot, about 165 amps DC for 1/8 rod on a machine(Lincoln Square Wave) that normally runs about 115 amps for a good hot 1/8 7018.

One thing to remember is that rods like 7018 and 11018 are low hydrogen or "lo hi" rods, they need to be kept dry in storage, which normally means an oven, to achieve the capabilities that they were designed for. Xray quality welds require that the rod be maintained in an oven as soon as the can is opened, but for farm or less critical welding, the rod can be reconditioned by placing a thin layer on a cookie sheet in a 400° oven for an hour. You know you`ve got everything right with 7018 when the slag curls off the bead.

Russ
 
I would think that just using 6011 to build up the notches would give a harder surface than the mild steel, and still be easy to grind into shape.
 
6011,is a fast freeze,general purpose,all position,mild steel rod.The first 2 or 3 numbers,is the tensile strength,the next to last number is the position., 1 signifies all position and the last number is the flux.6011 is kind of neat due to the fact that it will run on DC,or AC[buzz box].Generally speaking,a 7018 is a DC,reverse polarity rod,however Forney,for example,has an AC compatible 7018 rod.I can't even tell the amperage setting,any more,my old machines are so loosey lockit you have no idea were the heat is :) I do remember,years ago,running big 7/32 ,7024 [jet rod] at around 300 amps,when I worked at Baldwin-Lima -Hamilton.
 
scottr said:
Al , what do you mean by loosey lockit ?
:) Well,that's just a regional ,red-neck ,flat land hillbilly term for very inaccurate,with regards to the dial reading and the actual output amperage.One old machine,a Lincoln variable core buzz box[AC welder],was made in 1940.I've got a whole bunch of this regional type slang that sneaks out in my writing,every so often.It's kind of hard to get away from your roots,so to speak. :dizzy:
 
Old chap,I've been doing it so long I don't need a measuring device to tell me if I have the correct heat :)
 
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