Anyone use never-seize on cylinder or muffler bolts?

[cbr929rr]

Seeing how these steel bolts thread into aluminum and magnesium does anyone use never-seize on the threads. Would loctite be necessary on cylinder bolts, I was a little worried my stock tool T-27 might not be strong enough if I used even the temporary (blue) loctite and I might strip the head of the bolts? Never-seize seems like a better option. And I wont be able to use a torque wrench when re-assembling my 6401 to 7900 conversion. Anyone see any major problems!

 

[Lakeside53]

You don't need anything.. and use a torque wrench on cylinder bolts...

 

[milkie62]

I had a muffler bolt break on me once.I use never sieze on most fasteners.

 

[cbr929rr]

You don't need anything.. and use a torque wrench on cylinder bolts...

I looked at sears.com and don't see a bit that will fit through the narrow cylinder holes all the way to the bottom and any extension would be to wide

The height under the cylinder fins combined with the case prevents using the small bit with a 1/4 inch drive socket. Is this only common on dolmars?

What tool do you use to torque the cylinder down, I've looked at Baileys online and only see a T handle.

 

[Tzed250]

I looked at sears.com and don't see a bit that will fit through the narrow cylinder holes all the way to the bottom and any extension would be to wide

The height under the cylinder fins combined with the case prevents using the small bit with a 1/4 inch drive socket. Is this only common on dolmars?

What tool do you use to torque the cylinder down, I've looked at Baileys online and only see a T handle.

Wiha, Snap-on, Mac, etc. all make the long reach T27 tool you need to torque the cylinder bolts.

The Stihl Special tools are 0812 542 2104 or 0812 540 1112

 

[kurtty]

i have had muffler bolds rattle out on me before, it makes the saw sound cool but she runs crapy.
use loctite on muffler bolts. i have never had a cylinder bolt come loose on me though. and every so often i go and tighten everything on my saws. one of the things stihl seems to have over husky is they keep their bolts on.

 

[berryman70]

I don't see a problem using never-seize on exhaust bolts, I found that fasteners will stay tight when using never-seize as well as not & will come apart better on the next dissasemble. I wouldn't use loctite on exhaust or cyl. bolts, a couple drops of motor oil on the threads of any fastener will give a more accurate torque with a torque wrench.
BTW I love loctite - I own a Harley Davidson

 

[16:1mix]

BTW I love loctite - I own a Harley Davidson

I've been down THAT road!

 

[Lakeside53]

Oil on the thread will give a false torque value... it will be too high. The torque valves given are for dry instalation. As for "never seize", the bolts into mag never do seize anyhow...

 

[Lakeside53]

... one of the things stihl seems to have over husky is they keep their bolts on.

Stihl Torx have gripers on the back of the heads. It really does make a difference. I pulled apart a new 3120 part yesterday - that model is still using washers, which do work, but not as well.

 

[Freakingstang]

Oil on the thread will give a false torque value... it will be too high. The torque valves given are for dry instalation. As for "never seize", the bolts into mag never do seize anyhow...

Is that a stihl spec--no oil?


Most bolts in the auto world require a dab of oil on the threads, especially the critical ones.

 

[Lakeside53]

Is that a stihl spec--no oil?


Most bolts in the auto world require a dab of oil on the threads, especially the critical ones.

Yes - dry.

 

[safeT1st]

Never Seize / Loctite

I put a small smear of Never Seize on any fasteners subject to high heat ; exhaust studs , nuts , bolts , judicious amount on spark plug threads being careful not to introduce any into cylinder. as far as automotive I also use it on hardware exposed to road grime , salt and excessive moisture ; lug nuts , caliper attach bolts , u-joint cups ect . Never Seize will not encourage properly torqued fasteners to loosen but will improve tear down and thread life . Mine is made by Permatex , P/N 133H and is rated for -65 F to 2000 F .

I use Loctite in only a few places , as others said on the HD motorcycle , and fasteners you can't easily get back to . For instance I put a drop on the screws that retain my trucks automatic transmission filter . The green bushing and bearing type can also be used to improve fit in slightly worn bores . A clean bushing bore with a coat of primer and Loctite will often provide a slight interference fit for bushng or bearing in a bore that is no longer tight . The key to Loctite is to make sure the threads are clean and dry and use it sparingly . Also use the right type as there are more out there than you can shake a stick at .

As far as saws go it would be best to follow Lakeside53's advice as know one here knows them better than him . If he says "install dry" you can bet that's the way to go .

 

[Austin1]

All the bolts on my saw's are dry, but I use a ''never seize'' on my trucks I would have to go out to the garage and see what it is,it's something my dad gave me a few can's, with a brush it is kinda like white lead but it's Grey in colour. This stuff is from the early 60's late 50's so it does have lead in it, and it is the best for suspension parts Never ever had a bolt seize on me when using that stuff. I think it is called jet lube if it was not snowing and cold I would go outside have to wait, till tomorrow to get the answer.Okay I am going to go out to the garage this is killing me!

 

[Austin1]

i have had muffler bolds rattle out on me before, it makes the saw sound cool but she runs crapy.
use loctite on muffler bolts. i have never had a cylinder bolt come loose on me though. and every so often i go and tighten everything on my saws. one of the things stihl seems to have over husky is they keep their bolts on.

That's what some say, but they are just kid's, and never ran a older Stihl my 041 even though a AV super liked to shake bolts loose much more than any saw I ever owned!Older Mac's the same age don't seem to have this problem.But that is what maintenance is for just check the saw once in a wile to see what has rattled loose. Never seen a problem on any newer saw no matter what the brand.

 

[berryman70]

Is that a stihl spec--no oil?


Most bolts in the auto world require a dab of oil on the threads, especially the critical ones.

Yes - dry.

I guess I would go with lakesides advice as he is strictly a saw mechanic & I believe a good one at that. I'm going by my experience as a truck mechanic. Every page in a Cummins repair manual that shows torque values states to use motor oil when torquing a bolt or nut. Did you ever see a dial type torque wrench jump when torquing a dry fastener, how accuate is that? With oil or lubricant it's smooth all the way to the final torque value.
Just my opinion for what it's worth.

 

[slabmaster]

I guess I would go with lakesides advice as he is strictly a saw mechanic & I believe a good one at that. I'm going by my experience as a truck mechanic. Every page in a Cummins repair manual that shows torque values states to use motor oil when torquing a bolt or nut. Did you ever see a dial type torque wrench jump when torquing a dry fastener, how accuate is that? With oil or lubricant it's smooth all the way to the final torque value.
Just my opinion for what it's worth.

With cast iron i always use oil.With mag not so sure,as it my be self lubricating.AS far as muffler bolts,i have found them rattling inside 066s before.I think those serrated stihl heads dont work as good on steel as they do on the mag.Just what i have found. Mark

 

[Goat]

I looked at sears.com and don't see a bit that will fit through the narrow cylinder holes all the way to the bottom and any extension would be to wide

Sears sells a T27 in screw driver form. I just cut the shaft right at the handle and brazed the shank into a 1/4" socket. I think that JB Weld might hold if you can't braze in your shop...

It lets me get to the jug bolts on my 044 real nice, I keep a second one with the screw driver handle to work on all the other stuff.

 

[bore_pig]

Do whatever makes you comfortable. I personally wouldn't use anything. After every full day, or two afternoons of cutting I do a thorough cleaning and inspection. If something is loose I will find it during my inspection.

 

[Lakeside53]

... AS far as muffler bolts,i have found them rattling inside 066s before.I think those serrated stihl heads dont work as good on steel as they do on the mag.Just what i have found. Mark

I don't see this often. Maybe they weren't torqued down correctly?

Also... the 066 workshop manual calls for loctite 242 on the muffler to cylinder bolts. Few Stihl faternetrs require loctite, but it pays to consult the manual.

If you are replacing bolts and using loctite, the threads on both surfaces need to be cleaned and degreased, or it's pointless. There is a specific loctite product to do this, but I use carb cleaner.